bobostski Posted March 30, 2014 Report Posted March 30, 2014 I want to trade out the leaky ugly dented oil pan on my 50 Dodge for one from a 37 Dodge engine. I got the old pan loose but is will not come out because the tie rod is in the way. What do I do next? I there anything else I should do or check while the pan is off? Thanks Quote
TodFitch Posted March 30, 2014 Report Posted March 30, 2014 If the tie rod is in the way, I'd remove the tie rod. Check for sludge, metal filinings, etc. in the pan. Look for good tight connections on the oil plumbing. See if anything looks amiss on the rotating parts. Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 30, 2014 Report Posted March 30, 2014 Did you try and turn the wheels in both directions to see if that will give you clearance to remove the oil pan? It should come out without removing the tie rod. Quote
54Illinois Posted March 30, 2014 Report Posted March 30, 2014 Turn the wheels...worked on my two 54 Plymouths and 52 Dodge. Quote
bobostski Posted March 31, 2014 Author Report Posted March 31, 2014 Thanks guys. Turing the wheel did it. Now I hope goes back in as easy. Quote
TodFitch Posted March 31, 2014 Report Posted March 31, 2014 Thanks guys. Turing the wheel did it. Now I hope goes back in as easy. Lucky guy. That does not work on my '33. Have to drop the drag link to get the pan off. That is easier if you simply remove the pitman arm from the steering gear box. But while splined, pitman arm shaft is not keyed so getting it back on so the steering wheel is lined up properly can be a pain. Quote
Lumpy Posted March 31, 2014 Report Posted March 31, 2014 I have found the strangest things in oil pans. Perfectly good, running engines with a half inch of sludge, ground up bearings and valve seals, all sorts of chunks of metal, small sockets and broken tips off of screw drivers. I guess some people just put them back on after an engine has been repaired, without looking or cleaning them...?? Sometimes you might have to turn an engine over a little to get the pan back on, as the counter weights will stop it, or just the position of the crank will make it difficult. Have fun, and good luck. ken. Quote
JDaniel64 Posted March 31, 2014 Report Posted March 31, 2014 Never thought of turning the wheels when I ran into this issue, just jacked the car up by the frame to get the suspension lower and had plenty of clearance. Found a good deal of sludge in my pan (3/4" thick), a few coarse metal shavings and that's it. The only uncomfortable part was dislodging dirt and grime during the pan un-installation/installation, 50+ yr old road crustys in the eyes is quite annoying... Quote
Young Ed Posted April 1, 2014 Report Posted April 1, 2014 FYI The gunk probably contains large amounts of lead. On my plymouth water got between the gunk and the pan and rusted a hole in the bottom. When the engine was rebuilt and all the gunk cleaned out the hole wasn't noticed until the engine was back in the car. Quote
54Illinois Posted April 1, 2014 Report Posted April 1, 2014 Thanks guys. Turing the wheel did it. Now I hope goes back in as easy. It will. But do a couple dry runs first. Quote
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