JDaniel64

Been a while since i've posted, i am having an issue with a cracked exhaust manifold. The first time I noticed a 'ticking' noise from the manifold was on a winter day in 2008, never thought anything of it because it always stopped after 30 seconds to a minute. Noticed a crack in the manifold about 3 years ago, but it always sealed itself up after the manifold was heated up and the engine was warm. Now it doesn't seal up...it just ticks and pops. My question is how difficult are the exhaust/intake manifold bolts to remove? I am worried about breaking studs when removing the manifolds and am wondering if it is a tedious job to undertake? I was thinking about replacing the exhaust manifold with the Fenton dual repo's available, I need a new exhaust system anyways. So, could I still use my original choke somehow or find another type of automatic choke? I would greatly appreciate any info, thanks in advance, John.

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/868/M0002868.pdf This might be what you are looking for.

Several people have probably torn down a few older engines to discover whitish-brown deposits on the valves, cylinder head, pistons, and inside exhaust manifolds . Some of the engines I have torn down... a '49 ford V8, '49 dodge I6, '67 ford 352 V8, and yesterday a '68 ford 289 V8 have all shown this cement-like stuff. Today I decided to take a sample from my freshly dis-assembled 289 and test it (for those interested, the testing machine was a Bruker XRF): Sample locations include exhaust valves, general combustion chamber, and piston tops (not shown): Here is a picture of the results and sample used: 70.8% of the sample was lead, so (70.8/77.2)*100 = 91.7% of the powder was lead based compounds...probably most in the oxide/carbonate form. Interesting to see Bromine and Chlorine as the next most prevalent components in the analysis, since they were used as lead scavenging agents (1,2-Dibromomethane & 1,2- Dichloromethane) in leaded fuel. Might be a good thing to wear a dust mask while cleaning vintage engine parts that were in use during TEL's heyday. Just if anyone had been wondering about the stuff, I was sure curious about it.

You didn't order the wrong vibrator, P-V1015P is correct, the new SS vibrator not working is a sign of insufficient power going to the radio. Voltages below 6vdc are insufficient to power a new solid state vibrator, the old mechanical ones will still work but be inconsistent and at a lower frequency. The new SS vibrator I installed in my radio even had a hard time running off of my 6v car charger when testing, they use 14 amps, and can draw down the voltage in a weak power source.

Does the audio get distorted as the radio fades out? Any hums or noises that appear/disappear when the radio fades and comes back? Also, when it 'cuts back in' is it instantaneous? Do the dash lights for your radio fade significantly or just a little when stopped? Would just be a few clues to the puzzle My gut tells me its the vibrator (if its the old style electro-mechanical one), could be weak.

Just posted a link to a mopar 802 schematic to the pilot-house side of the forum, thought you might be interested: http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/959/M0013959.pdf

Also, here is a philco schematic for the mopar 802...if you are interested: http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel/959/M0013959.pdf

OOOooooh, some sprague bumblebee caps Those are worth a little coin in some gibson and fender circles if they test okay. Definitely a philco set since it uses loctal-8 tubes. Did the lights & tube filaments power up when power was applied or did nothing happen? My 813 had a bad on-off switch on the volume control that I had to bypass, looked like it burned and exploded! Just glad the volume pot. still worked, those are obsolete...

The vibrator should work, the pinout (4-pins) is the same for all negative-ground chrysler applications. Dimensions and current rating are the only variables, you should be fine putting the 819 vibrator into the 802. If you want a solid state vibrator for the radio you will have to purchase it, none were standard for those radios (methinks '55 or '56 was the first year for a SS radio in a mopar). The old electro-mechanical vibrator induces more noise into the system and has a shorter lifespan than the solid state. Some can be found here if you are interested: http://www.tubesandmore.com/products/radio_antique_equipment_parts_0?filters=Type%3DVibrators Some other helpful links if you are tech savvy: http://www.nostalgiaair.org/Resources/ http://frank.pocnet.net/ Hope this helps, have fun!

Hmmm, do you have measurements for the speaker (mounting holes and dimensions)? Also what exactly are they doing to the radio? The stock speaker seems to be 2.8 ohms per schematic so if you are just repairing the original audio section, not replacing w/ solid state stuff, you need to match that impedance.

Where in kansas? Gotta love the back-lot and hedge-row treasures to be found here. Surprised to see only two bullet holes in the car, some cars sent out to pasture look worse than bonnie and clyde's ford!

Be aware if you use detergent oil on a original/unmolested engine, my oil was dirty black after about 500 miles (~800km). Might want to check for sludge in your oil pan when you change the oil too (stick your finger or a probe of some sort into the drain hole), I had about 1.5cm of the junk in my oil pan when I dropped and cleaned it. Now going about 2000 miles before it goes black again, I believe that there is still some stuff clinging to the innards of the block. 10w40 sounds like a good choice for your engine, the extra viscosity over 30wt will not hurt. Just food for thought, have fun! ....these cars aren't too fussy.

Very nice lookin' Plymouth! 12v system will definitely fry the 6v filaments in the older bulbs, also be aware if you have any vintage electronics (i.e., radio and such). Good luck with the '51!

I had just stumbled upon mine at a garage sale this weekend, of all places! Thought it would come in handy for a future dual-carb upgrade.

Yup yup, 12vdc would definitely fry the tube heater filaments and cause the 6v vibrator to fail with increased arcing in the contacts along with almost doubling its operating frequency. The Mopar 813 radio has an output voltage of 250vdc at the rectifier, which would be doubled to 500vdc using 12v supply. You'd need a new transformer, vibrator, and to rewire the tubes filaments in series (of two) to get it working in 12vdc.