55 Fargo Posted January 5, 2014 Report Posted January 5, 2014 Hi all, just picked up this set of manifolds today, drove 30 miles in 30 below weather to get them. They are in good shape, heatriser intact and working well, byt function. What do you Guys thionk, clean up, paint and install em as is, or separate them and install new gaskets between intake and exhaust manifolds? Paid $70 Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 5, 2014 Report Posted January 5, 2014 Looks like 12 volt manifolds to me. Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 5, 2014 Author Report Posted January 5, 2014 Looks like 12 volt manifolds to me. Nope you be wrong already, it be 13 bolt, your only 1 volt short of an answer..... I meant bolt 1 Quote
MBF Posted January 5, 2014 Report Posted January 5, 2014 I think while I had it off I'd replace the gasket since it looks like those bolts have been replaced not too long ago (to repair heat riser shaft?). It'll be easier than putting them on and finding out you need to replace them after its running. Nice find. Good luck Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 5, 2014 Author Report Posted January 5, 2014 I think while I had it off I'd replace the gasket since it looks like those bolts have been replaced not too long ago (to repair heat riser shaft?). It'll be easier than putting them on and finding out you need to replace them after its running. Nice find. Good luck That heat riser was not repaired, it is original, those bolts are just buffed up on top. Now this more than likely does not leak, so am reluctant to seperate them, unless it is the wisest thing to do....thanx Quote
_shel_ny Posted January 6, 2014 Report Posted January 6, 2014 (edited) 1) You have bolts that go all the way through, so there should be no "break them off" issues if taking it apart. 2) Without opening it you do not know for sure what is going on inside with the heat riser flap. ie loose 3) The gasket cost about $3. 4) Some shop manuals suggest (instruct) that when installing the intake/exhaust manifolds to have the 4 bolts just snug, and tighten them after the 13 bolts have been torqued to the 15-20 ft. lb. Your call Edited January 6, 2014 by shel_ny Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 6, 2014 Author Report Posted January 6, 2014 1) You have bolts that go all the way through, so there should be no "break them off" issues if taking it apart. 2) Without opening it you do not know for sure what is going on inside with the heat riser flap. ie loose 3) The gasket cost about $3. 4) Some shop manuals suggest (instruct) that when installing the intake/exhaust manifolds to have the 4 bolts just snug, and tighten them after the 13 bolts have been torqued to the 15-20 ft. lb. Your call hi Shel yes this manifold is in real good shape, nothing is loose on the flap and shaft, you can feel it. The manual does state as you have posted, snug the 2 manifolds together, then install, then tighten 4 bolts that tie the 2 together. I have the gasket, so most likely will take apart for cleaning and reassembly... Quote
wallytoo Posted January 6, 2014 Report Posted January 6, 2014 1) You have bolts that go all the way through, so there should be no "break them off" issues if taking it apart. i don't know. all 4 on mine were frozen inside the manifolds. the nuts came off easy, but none of the bolts would free up. i used penetrant, heat, gentle tapping, couldn't get them to come off. so i didn't separate them or change the gasket. i really didn't want to search for a new manifold (if i'd broken it in trying to remove the bolts) or have to drill out rusted/stuck/broken bolts. Quote
_shel_ny Posted January 6, 2014 Report Posted January 6, 2014 hi Shel yes this manifold is in real good shape, nothing is loose on the flap and shaft, you can feel it. The manual does state as you have posted, snug the 2 manifolds together, then install, then tighten 4 bolts that tie the 2 together. I have the gasket, so most likely will take apart for cleaning and reassembly... Some flaps are held to the shaft by screws. Some are brazed/welded. Quote
_shel_ny Posted January 6, 2014 Report Posted January 6, 2014 i don't know. all 4 on mine were frozen inside the manifolds. the nuts came off easy, but none of the bolts would free up. i used penetrant, heat, gentle tapping, couldn't get them to come off. so i didn't separate them or change the gasket. i really didn't want to search for a new manifold (if i'd broken it in trying to remove the bolts) or have to drill out rusted/stuck/broken bolts. Good point on the bolt possible seize Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 6, 2014 Author Report Posted January 6, 2014 i don't know. all 4 on mine were frozen inside the manifolds. the nuts came off easy, but none of the bolts would free up. i used penetrant, heat, gentle tapping, couldn't get them to come off. so i didn't separate them or change the gasket. i really didn't want to search for a new manifold (if i'd broken it in trying to remove the bolts) or have to drill out rusted/stuck/broken bolts. Yup, got another on the bench like what you describe, when i did the 47 Chrysler, they unbolted, but not very easy. I am leaning toward not pulling therm apart. The heat riser and flap seem fine. I do have access to a flexible fibre optic,maybe I will look inside to be sure. I will clean up,paint and install. The next big hurdle is getting the 1 on my engine off now,without breaking any bolts. These are fun...... Quote
wallytoo Posted January 6, 2014 Report Posted January 6, 2014 on the other hand, it probably wouldn't hurt to try to remove them, and if they back out easily - success. Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 6, 2014 Author Report Posted January 6, 2014 Some flaps are held to the shaft by screws. Some are brazed/welded. Have never seen the screw on types in Canada, on any I have had apart. The shaft plate is deflecting compressed air, and when you move the counterweight, the air moves freely. I am confident it is fine. But I will look with a fibre optic when I get a chance Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 6, 2014 Author Report Posted January 6, 2014 Just checked out new manifold with both compressed air, it definitely gets deflected, when the heat riser plate is in the cold position. I also used a short piece of speedo cable insert, pushed through an exhaust port, the flap stops it in the cold position, and does not in the warm position. I may take the manifold to work, and run it through the xray scanner, for fun Quote
_shel_ny Posted January 6, 2014 Report Posted January 6, 2014 Have never seen the screw on types in Canada, on any I have had apart. Perhaps I have been out in the cold too much. Maybe none with screws. Sounds like you have determined that it is secure Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 8, 2014 Author Report Posted January 8, 2014 Update: Took manifolds to local machine shop, to get an estimate on a few things. Estimate for drilling hole into manifold for 2nd outlet about $50, if I want them to weld on a 2nd outlet, they would cut off an outlet from another manifold I have, set-up and welding about 4 hours maybe longer. To resurface the mating surfaces about another $100, this could end up being $500.00, an of course another set of pipes and a muffler, hangers etc. So to split my exhaust, with all added new exhaust, could be 7-8 hundred buck$. Not cheap up here in these parts. The mating surfaces on the manifolds look good, and He said may not require resurfacing, so more than likely stock she will be.........No fun up here Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 8, 2014 Report Posted January 8, 2014 I'd be VERY careful about welding on old manifolds...they are brittle and VERY VERY hard to weld to. Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 8, 2014 Author Report Posted January 8, 2014 I'd be VERY careful about welding on old manifolds...they are brittle and VERY VERY hard to weld to. Thats very true, but has it not been done many times by forum members? Perhaps the Old Daddy bolt on flange is the best approach.. Quote
desoto1939 Posted January 8, 2014 Report Posted January 8, 2014 So when trying to modify our antique vehicles, cars or trucks, the first thing to always consider is the cost of doing the modification and then how will these modifcation make and improve the car/truck with these changes. Also need to consider the amount of time and then the amount of time that you will use the car/truck to get the return on investment. When we bought these older cars/trucks we all knew that they are not the fastest item on the block. We were going back in time when life was slower paced and these vehicles were reflective of the time and the driving conditions and the roadways. So my big question is why do we all want an antique vehicle to act and have the same speed opportunities that we have in a modern vehicle? If you what the modern feel then just buy a modern car to go fast or realize what you have sit back and enjoy the nostolga and enjoy the sites around you and take the time to smell the newly mowed grass, smell the roses, look at the clouds and enjoy your surroundings at a slower pace and take the time to get out of the rat race for several hours. Life is going to quickly, so enjoy what you have and do not rush our lives away. We are only on this earth for a short time. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 8, 2014 Author Report Posted January 8, 2014 So when trying to modify our antique vehicles, cars or trucks, the first thing to always consider is the cost of doing the modification and then how will these modifcation make and improve the car/truck with these changes. Also need to consider the amount of time and then the amount of time that you will use the car/truck to get the return on investment. When we bought these older cars/trucks we all knew that they are not the fastest item on the block. We were going back in time when life was slower paced and these vehicles were reflective of the time and the driving conditions and the roadways. So my big question is why do we all want an antique vehicle to act and have the same speed opportunities that we have in a modern vehicle? If you what the modern feel then just buy a modern car to go fast or realize what you have sit back and enjoy the nostolga and enjoy the sites around you and take the time to smell the newly mowed grass, smell the roses, look at the clouds and enjoy your surroundings at a slower pace and take the time to get out of the rat race for several hours. Life is going to quickly, so enjoy what you have and do not rush our lives away. We are only on this earth for a short time. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Yes yes Rich, my intention is for a nostalgia type of thing, little better performance sound and visual stimuli. I drive this truck a lot, and will drive it more in the future, infact i like to drive every chance i get. She is rough, so I am not worried about winter driving and such. I most likely will just stick with stock, at least for now, the extra 500 bucks splitting the exhaust I can use elsewhere on the truck.... Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted January 8, 2014 Report Posted January 8, 2014 Perhaps I have been out in the cold too much. Maybe none with screws. Sounds like you have determined that it is secure Perhaps I have been out in the cold too much. Maybe none with screws. Sounds like you have determined that it is secure Those that I have seen had screws . After you screw it together you weld it , or a least tack weld it . That way you don't have a problem if the screws come loose . Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 8, 2014 Author Report Posted January 8, 2014 checked out the flanges with straight edge, looks pretty tru to me, the exhaust pipe outlet flange on the manifold is pitted up pretty good, hope the gasket compensates for that. I am going to clean up the outside and paint them, and make a plan for the swap.....thanx all for the input Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted January 9, 2014 Report Posted January 9, 2014 ... the exhaust pipe outlet flange on the manifold is pitted up pretty good, hope the gasket compensates for that. ... Fill the pits with JB Weld , can't hurt anything and will probably help . Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 9, 2014 Author Report Posted January 9, 2014 Fill the pits with JB Weld , can't hurt anything and will probably help . Hmmm cold weld ,hmmmmmm Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 9, 2014 Report Posted January 9, 2014 Fill the pits with JB Weld , can't hurt anything and will probably help . POR15 has a product for manifolds. I used to to repair the crack on my manifold. Is holding up well. I also used it to patch the small crack in my water jacket which is also holding up well. I don't know if the JB will hold up to the manifold temps. Quote
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