Need info on a 51 Chrysler Windsor I am going to go look at.

[DoubleClutch]

Just needing to know what I should be looking for when I go look at this car. Has a fluid drive trans with flat 6. Just want to know what I am getting into if I buy this car. Oh and I am new here and plan on getting allot of info so I will be asking allot of questions. This will be my first Chrysler. I am more of a Chevy man but love the looks of the Mopar's. 

[captden29]

the only issue I had with my 51 Windsor was the Korean war pot metal.you will never find chrome parts in good condition to replace them, they have to be replated.they skimped in a few other places with types and amount of metal due to the war effort, but nothing that affects the driving of the car.it was a fun car to drive and take to shows. you will be the only one there.the transmission is a 4 speed with a high and low range. easy to get the hang of it, but very different from anything else.the driver side has left hand lug bolts, so never let a tire shop at them,NEVER with an air gun.it is 6 volt positive ground. mine came set up with 8 volt, but once the car was running properly I took that out and returned it to 6 volt. they crank slower than we are used to, but that is normal for them. you can be jumped with a 12 volt car if you need that for any reason, but you cannot jump the 12 volt car.you will need a puller to remove the rear brake drums. they can be stubborn even with one.these are well built cars and are easy to maintain, and many parts are readily available. capt den

[captden29]

also, be careful of what you pay for this car, as their values are lower than chevy or ford of the same era.the Windsor is the bottom of the Chrysler lineup in 51. capt den

[greg g]

The fluid drive is NOT THE TRANSMISSION.  It is a hydraulic power transfer unit between the engine and the transmission.  The transmission will either be  manual three speed or more likely with the Chrysler an M6 or M5 semi automatic dual range transmission.  You may want to visit the Imperial club website, their repair section covers the care and feeding of these units well enough to acquaint you with there operation.  Both the fluid drive unit and the transmission are pretty bulletproof and operate for ever without internal issues.  The trans relies on a governor and solenoid to shift and the electrical connections to these units is often the culprit in most "it won't shift" problems.  Other issues are rusted floors from leaky windshield gaskets and or leaky cowl vent gasket, Brakes are unusual and require a specific adjustment regimen to operate properly and a special puller to access the rears.  Rust in the spare tire well can also be an issue.  Fuel system problems are common as are stuck valves on engines that have sat unused for a long period of time.  Other wise these cars are simple well engineered cars that drive and ride very well but are not performance vehicles by any stretch of the imagination.

[DoubleClutch]

What should this car go for?  Sapose to be in good shape.

I called and set up a time to look at it Thursday so I got some time to get information about the car.

Do you have a link to the Imperial club website? Are the rear pullers still available to get to the rear brakes?

Not going to be a performance ride, Just going to be a cruiser! Low and Slow!!  

Edited December 10, 2013 by DoubleClutch

[greg g]

just web search imperial club and go to the repair section.

[Ricky Luke]

http://www.imperialclub.com/, although it appears to be down at the moment...

 

Rick

[captden29]

pullers for the brakes are still available.without knowing more aout the condition it is hard to set a value.if the car looks good,drives good, and stops good I would start at around $3000. I just sold a 1954 Chrysler Windsor that was all original except for the seat covers and I got $3900 for it.it had high mileage, but ran and drove extremely well.it had none of the rust issues that greg mentioned. these cars can drive at highway speeds, just take a little longer to get there.pictures if you can. capt den

[greg g]

m 6 info here also

 

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/fluidrive.html

[Tusler 49 New Yorker]

I have a 49 New Yorker with that sloppy 4 speed semi auto Transmission. the thing is a trip, you start off in first, take your foot off the gas and WAIT for the rpm to drop and the trans to shift into 2nd then you manual shift into 3rd ad do the let off the gas pedal to go into 4th.

I have found that if I start off downhill I have to manually take it to 3rd because when I let off the gas in 1st to shift to 2nd the trans stays engaged because the car gong down hill will not let the rpm drop on the motor. Also if you take off fast and get some revs going I have to manually shift it from 1st to 3rd. not a big deal as the big 8 does not seem to mind. I currently have a problem with the vacuum assist to the brakes not working. It makes these heavy cars very difficult to stop aand impossible to lock up the tires.

[Niel Hoback]

  For years I drove a 49 Desoto with "TipToe Shift" and very seldom used the low range. The idea of the trans was to put it in high and drive normally, without having to use the clutch or shift lever.  Unless you are racing from light to light, low range really isn't necessary. 

[greg g]

As per Chrysler literature low range was designed to be used only in times of poor traction, driving through mud , snow or sand, descending steep grades, or pulling your house off its foundation.  The transmission was introduced as a reaction to GM's hydramatic.  the idea was that you only needed to use the clutch to change from reverse to forward.  The recommended gear selection was high range for all other normal driving conditions.  Shifting between low range and high range while it might "improve acceleration performance" slightly, was never the way it was envisioned to be used.

[Niel Hoback]

 " Shifting between low range and high range while it might "improve acceleration performance" slightly, was never the way it was envisioned to be used."  I find that pretty funny.  As many times as I tried to hurry that old Hernando, using low and second NEVER improved acceleration, indeed, it slowed it down somewhat due to the wait for the "clunk" was doubled, especially if I had the RPM's up trying to go faster. 

  Seriously, put it in high and sit back, you'll get there anyway.

[JerseyHarold]

Is high range where 1st or second gear is on a regular 3-on-the-tree?

[Niel Hoback]

High range is where high is on a three speed.

[captden29]

high range is third gear on a standard shift 3 speed trans. on a gyromatic high range is third and fourth gear, with fourth being the highest gear. high gear is usually one rev of the engine transfers to one rev at the trans output shaft. the ratio will change to the rear wheels depending on the gear ratio of the differential.  the factory will use ratios that are best suited to the use that the vehicle is designed for.off road vehicles will have higher ratios than a highway use vehicle. someone on this forum may have a suggestion for a good book on the subject.   capt den

[JohnS48plm]

There's an article in Hemmings Classic Car about a 51 Windsor that might interest you. It's the Feb 2014 issue that just came out. It shows interior and exterior pictures along with pictures of the engine compartment. JohnS