falconvan Posted December 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 Lots done today; drivetrain is bolted in for good (barring any unforseen disasters). I've got upper gaskets on the way, now I need to pick up some header wrap and get them wrapped and installed. I also saw a pretty cool video on how to build your own fuel injector cleaner. I'll be giving that a shot before too long. The car sat a while and the gas smelled funky so I want to make sure the injectors are clean and working before installing them. They go under the upper intake and a lot of stuff has to come off to get to them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted December 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 I dont have my intake gaskets yet but here's an idea of what it will look like assembled. I went ahead and put the door trim, handles, and door panels back on today. Hopefully I can get the headers knocked out this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerseyHarold Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 What are you doing about door step plates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted December 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 There's some stainless aftermarket ones that came with the car. Interior was done when I got it, I just took it apart for painting and the motor swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 (edited) 'Tho I don't often comment, I follow your project @ every new post. I admire your energy, your craftsmanship and your outta the box thinking. The color of the intake runners in the next to last photos, you just posted, jumped right out at me. It appears to be similar to the effect I want for the Red Ram I am starting to build. How'd you do dat? I assume it's on aluminum. Edited December 30, 2013 by mrwrstory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted December 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 Thanks, I really like that color, too. It's a spray can engine enamel from Dupilcolor called "Cast Iron". I used three coats of primer, three color, and three clear. ORiey's has it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 I guess we're on the same page. This is also called Cast Iron from another mfgr. Not as metallic or transparent as yours appears to be. A friend did HiTemp clear exhaust system paint over ScotchBrited raw steel. Was cool and I'm hoping this color works with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted December 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Nice! Looks like a brand new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted January 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 (edited) I built the injector cleaner today and it worked great! The only thing I did different was use my battery charger for power as I couldn't get an AA battery to open the injector. Worked great, a noticeable improvement from start to finish in the injector stream. I used Seafoam for the cleaner. It was about $40 total for the parts and a new seal kit for all 6 injectors. Here's the link I used off of You Tube if anyone's interested: Edited January 1, 2014 by falconvan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1FSTRYD Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 Wow that is sure cool way of cleaning injectors. Sure beats paying $35.00 an injector for cleaning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted January 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2014 Yeah, I'm all about finding a budget priced way to get the job done. You can find just about anything on You Tube these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 It doesnt look much different but I've got a lot of hours this week altering the engine wiring harness, mounting the injectors and fuel rail, and figuring out how the hoses are going to lay out in the back. I was going to do the headers first but this made more sense when I started looking at it. The EEC, relays, etc will be mounted to a plate behind the seat so lot more wiring to change but its getting there. Also started putting the intake back together. The boxes of parts are getting emptier! Hopefuuly there's a trial engine start by the end of the month. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted January 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 I decided to build a shelf behind the seat to mount the PCM, ignition module, and the amps for the stereo, plus I'll be putting a bank of relays on it. Here it is mocked up, I'm going to work on the wiring harness and get everything lengthed/shortened to where it needs to go before I neaten it all up. This eats up a ton of time; looks like I may not make my January engine test run. Hopefully it wont take too much longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted January 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 This may not look like much progress but this is several hours this week of lengthening, shortening, soldering, heatshrinking, and studying diagrams. It's coming together well other than a few PCM functions Im still researching to see if they are necessary for proper engine functions. These PCMs do engine and trans functions so some things will be eliminated. But I'm feeling confident and it's looking good. Also found a spot for the coil pack; I was going to mount it on the front of the engine but I think this will work out better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireball Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Looking good. When I was doing my wiring for the PCM I remember the automatic shut down relay being part I did not include at first and that prevented the startup. Added the stock relay and badabing it was alive. For some reason it couldn't be bypassed as my initial thought was. Not a biggie after I got it figured out. So my suggestion is, locate and include that into your harness for PCM input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted January 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Hmmm.....I dont show anything like that on my PCM pinout. Closest thing I have is a fuel pump inertia swith that kills power to the pump in case of impact. Was yours a Ford PCM? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireball Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 Nope, mine was MoPar and the relay was marked as ASD in the drawings. Maybe you don't have to worry about it with Ford PCM. My starter spinned ok but engine refused to run without that relay connected. I just remember it did not make any sense to me when looking at the schema back then, but trial and error just got me pass it finally. Somehow the PCM stayed at shutdown mode without the relay. Maybe the PCM sensed resistance or some other signal that was not up to the par with direct wire without the relay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted February 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 I got a feeling there's going to be similar trial and error on this one, too. Today I relocated the battery to the trunk, welded the O2 bungs in my headers, and made a liitle bracket to mount the fuel pump and fan relays. All of the PCM wires are ran except for the battery power, ignition power, main grounds, and these two relays. One I get it started and verify that everything works as it should, I'll paint this panel and neaten up all the wiring. Should be wrapping the headers soon and getting them on so I can start routing wires and hoses around them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted February 2, 2014 Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 . . Somehow the PCM stayed at shutdown mode without the relay. Maybe the PCM sensed resistance or some other signal that was not up to the par with direct wire without the relay. I recall from the service manual and wiring diagrams for the old '82 Plymouth I once had that most of the inputs to the engine control unit (computer) were setup to detect open or shorted wires. That is it expected all sensors and controls to have a resistance within a certain range or it declared the sensor/actuator bad. Sounds like this is the same thing on your relay. I wouldn't be surprised if you could measure the DC resistance of the relay coil and use a fixed resistor of the same value to jumper it if need be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted February 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 Makes sense, I've seen guys do that in several different applications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Got my headers done today, just need to tighten them up. I also took a trip to the boneyard early this morning. I was off work to take my better half to the doctor and I had a couple hours to spare this morning. I picked up a driveshaft from a Ranger that should work after a little shorting, and I found this fuse/relay box from the same truck. I think I’m going to use this instead of just mounting loose relays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Some of the ford relay/fuse blocks are modular- made in sections that can be seperated and parts used as needed. Maybe you can pick and chose just the wanted Components as needed? Just a thought, Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Good possibility, i do only need to use a few slots in it. Mainly I was looking for one that had the 3/8" lug connector for battery cable and covered the ignition, fuel pump, and fan relays. For $10 with all the relays and fuses, this seemed to fit the bill pretty good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 One good brand relay with the matching female plug will run 2-3 times what you paid. Cannot beat the price and will make for a cleaner-organized install. Good find! Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted February 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 (edited) Thanks, Doug. Im all about cheap! That's one of the main reasons I used this motor in the first place; I already had it sitting in the garage. I got the headers bolted down and the steering box back in today along with small stuff like swapping out the gauge sensors and running a few wires for the starter and alternator. These SHO motors use an oil cooler that bolts to the block where the oil filter goes and the filter screws onto it. Then a heater hose runs out the back of the motor, to the cooler and back. Then a heater hose runs out the back of the motor, to the cooler, and back into the block through a nipple by the oil filter mount. It's a big mess of hoses that takes up a lot of room as much and as I'm trying to make it all fit, it looks like this is just not going to work around the big honker Plymouth steering box. I'm going to ditch the factory cooler and filter, screw on a remote filter adapter and mount a remote oil cooler and filter on the core support. Slow progress; lots of trial, error, and do overs, but it's getting there. Edited February 8, 2014 by falconvan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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