Removing Timing Chain

[48ply1stcar]

I can't seem to find a straight forward step by step procedure for removing the timing chain, either in the service manual or on the web - including.  Maybe it's too simple and I just have never done this before so I'm hesitating without instruction.

 

Can I assume that the cam sprocket can easily removed with a gear puller and the chain should just come off with the sprocket?

 

Then remove the crank sprocket with a puller. 

 

Are there any tips I should know?

 

When I replace the gears and chain should it be done in reverse order or all three parts together?

 

When seating the gears back in place what is a good method? Big or small sledge hammer, block of wood, or swing the entire engine block into at the trunk of the old-oak-tree?

 

The only reason that I'm removing the timing chain is the the back plate is bent and I hope either to have is fixed or replaced with the one off my 1953 218.

 

ALSO - How loose is too loose when it comes to the chain.

[Robert Horne]

It has been along time since I replaced my timing chain set.

It came off without much difficulty with a medium puller.

I lined up the timing marks on the sprockets before I took anything off.

I think I put everything back on all at the same time.

I have seen many threads on here with photos of the timing marks...

[P15-D24]

Before your start set the engine up for TDC on #1. That way the timing marks on the gears will be correct.

You will have to figure out a way to support the front of the engine. You need to pull the front motor mount to get the cover off.

If your are going to replace the front plate you will need to pull the oil pan. (Bolt from the backside)  (Don C or PA please confirm this)  

Replace both the gears and chain together.

Unbolt the cam gear and you can pop it off with the screwdriver.  New one goes on with a couple taps of rubber mallet.

Crank gear will need a puller to remove. Slide new crank gear on without keyway, set, then drive in key. 

Job is way easier if you pull the radiator. 

[Desotodav]

 x 2 on GTK's advice.

I had my engine mounted on a stand to make the job easier. I can confirm that the oil pan will need to be dropped as there is a bolt running through the oil pan front seal plate (pictured) which runs into the front engine plate. I found that my cam cog came off easily once the 3 bolts holding it in place were removed. Both cam and crankshaft cogs do have timing marks stamped on the front face lip that should both align to get engine timing right. Best to check the seal in the timing chain cover for wear while you're at it and replace if necessary.

[48ply1stcar]

The engine is on a stand.  I guess there so much dried oil and gunk I was a little nervous.

 

When I get a chance I'll take a picture of the timing chain or I'll compare it to the other engine - it seems awfully loose.

[jcmiller]

The 218 and 230 teardown links on the tech menu on this website are helpful for the disassembly side of things.

[48ply1stcar]

I never would have believed that this nasty filthy engine was in my car.  I should have used another quart of oil to drive the two miles to wash the engine at the car wash down the street.

 

Basically I'm using the block of the gold 230 engine transferring the 6 volt components: generator, starter, flywheel and bell housing.  I hadn't planned on changing the back plate until I realized it was bent.  I have another water distribution tube if I need it. 

 

I know I've said it before - fixing one thing begat fixing another thing, biblical car repair.

 

 

I have some concern about how loose the chain is on the Gold 230.

 

 

[P15-D24]

Both of those chains have clearly visible sag and should be replaced. Here is what a new one looks like: 

[52b3b Joe]

I just did one a few weeks ago, and I can tell you it took all my puller had to pull the crank gear! The original set was sagging bad like the ones pictured above. The engine runs a lot quieter now. Also the oil line was aimed at the front of the cover. Why that was I don't know, but now its aimed right at the chain. 

[Jim Yergin]

 

Basically I'm using the block of the gold 230 engine transferring the 6 volt components: generator, starter, flywheel and bell housing.  I hadn't planned on changing the back plate until I realized it was bent.  I have another water distribution tube if I need it.

I think the flywheel in the 218 may be different than the one in the 230. You may want to check the offset.

Jim Yergin

[Don Coatney]

 

I think the flywheel in the 218 may be different than the one in the 230. You may want to check the offset.

Jim Yergin

Good call Jim. The flywheel offset is different. Use of the 218 flywheel and a P-15 bellhousing on a 230 crankshaft may cause a mis-alignment of the starter gear to ring gear. I had to modify my bellhousing as pictured below to make it work. I also used special shoulder bolts to secure the flywheel to the crankshaft.