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Posted

Anybody running a wood or phenolic carb spacer on your Carter B&B?

 

Just wondering if carb spacers will help with keep the carb body cooler in the underhood heat of summer.

I know some are made of wood, and are up to 1 inch thick, but supposedly keep carbs from boiling up this modern hooch gas.....

Posted

Had used a phenolic spacer years ago when I had a pro street Dart. It did help with better atomization .Not sure about keeping the fuel from boiling as I did not have any problems before the spacer or after .

I never liked the "wood" spacers cause I figured they would be too absorbent of the fuel.

Posted

Good morning Fred

 

Here is the wood spacer I made for my '47 D25 carb — zero problem with hard hot starts since.  I don't know if fuel absorption could have been an issue, but wiped the inner bore with gasket seal just in case.

 

In line with my compulsion to make all modifications/upgrades with as close to period methods and materials as possible, the spacer was made from a bit of hardwood salvaged from a derelict '29 Nash hardwood door frame.

 

PS: I know you didn't need that arrow to find the spacer, but I pulled these pics from an old slide show,

post-1019-0-75440400-1369400815_thumb.jpg

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Posted (edited)

I have phenolic blocks under my carbs.  More to raise them up as the Fenton Intake is cast lower than stock and the blocks brought the linkage up to better alignment with the bell crank on the head.  Fred one of things that I notced is there is a difference between the older car(40's) manifolds and the later 50's ones.  The tall casting under the carb as shown in Chris's picture gets lower through the years as the hoods came down with the sleeker styling.  Is this the case on your pickup???  I know the 56 engine that I bought has none of that raised casting, and as such had a metal heat shield that mounted under the carb and extending forward to completely shadow the float bowl.   Phenolic actually transfers quit a bit of heat, probably not as much as the cast iron of the manifold but they still do get pretty hot.  I wonder how much difference there is in  heat transfer when comparing the stock intake to an aftermarket cast aluminum one.  Might be a good test for one of those point and shoot thermometers.

Edited by greg g
Posted

Thanx Chris, plan to make up 1 of these from a nice block of hardwood I Have. I think it would make a difference on hot days when underhood temps rise.....

Good morning Fred

 

Here is the wood spacer I made for my '47 D25 carb — zero problem with hard hot starts since.  I don't know if fuel absorption could have been an issue, but wiped the inner bore with gasket seal just in case.

 

In line with my compulsion to make all modifications/upgrades with as close to period methods and materials as possible, the spacer was made from a bit of hardwood salvaged from a derelict '29 Nash hardwood door frame.

 

PS: I know you didn't need that arrow to find the spacer, but I pulled these pics from an old slide show,

Posted

Thanx Greg, plan to try a wood spacer for this summer. I found last summer on real hjot days, gas would boil in carb. I have 12 volts so that makes a difference on re-starting engine. My exhaust manifold has a stuck heat riser, which does not help, I do have a complete replacement waiting to go in... 

I have phenolic blocks under my carbs.  More to raise them up as the Fenton Intake is cast lower than stock and the blocks brought the linkage up to better alignment with the bell crank on the head.  Fred one of things that I notced is there is a difference between the older car(40's) manifolds and the later 50's ones.  The tall casting under the carb as shown in Chris's picture gets lower through the years as the hoods came down with the sleeker styling.  Is this the case on your pickup???  I know the 56 engine that I bought has none of that raised casting, and as such had a metal heat shield that mounted under the carb and extending forward to completely shadow the float bowl.   Phenolic actually transfers quit a bit of heat, probably not as much as the cast iron of the manifold but they still do get pretty hot.  I wonder how much difference there is in  heat transfer when comparing the stock intake to an aftermarket cast aluminum one.  Might be a good test for one of those point and shoot thermometers.

 

 

post-107-0-98311400-1369451377_thumb.jpg

post-107-0-93139400-1369451389_thumb.jpg

Posted

Plywood? the fact it is laminated in layers? Lemme know how it goes, gonna make a hardwood spacer about the same thickness... 

Many years ago, I read that plywood makes a good carb spacer.

I have a few small pieces of 12ply 5/8 plywood, I will make a couple of spacers,

and try one.....

Posted

Your manifold looks like the early car ones with the big cast lump that raises the carb up above the runners.  Can you grab onto the riser flap pivot and turn it clockwise???

Posted

No it's seized good, have tried ona few occasions. I have another manifold that has a working heatriser flap. I do need to correct this, it will help keep car cooler in summer. 

The maniofld is the correct stock to this engine, being in Canada and a long block, things could be different.

Your manifold looks like the early car ones with the big cast lump that raises the carb up above the runners.  Can you grab onto the riser flap pivot and turn it clockwise???

Posted

And if you look closely you will see the breather has an alignment "tab" so the inlet faces towards the rear. 

Posted

Call and talk to Tom Langdon. Tom supplied two phenolic spacers for me at a very reasonable price. I dont believe he has them on his web site but he sis have some on his shelf. I believe they are made for Chevy carbs, but fit perfect for my recent dual upgrade

http://stoveboltengineco.com

.

  • 3 years later...
Posted

Beware that you will need to lengthen the two carberator mounting bolts and increase the length of the sisson auto choke linkage by whatever size phenolic spacer installed. Due to hood clearance you may be limited to a 1/2 inch spacer on a 48  D-24 Dodge.

auto

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