Clutch Replacement

[52dodge]

The clutch in my 1952 dodge meadowbrook is getting weak and slipping,its a fluid drive 3 speed.I bought a repair manual off ebay so that i would have some directions on doing this job but the manual only gives directions on clutch adjustment and nothing on clutch replacement.Anybody know where i can get some directions on doing this job?Also is there any special tools or anything special i should know when doing a clutch job on this vechical? Thanks...ed

[Don Coatney]

If your clutch is indeed slipping you should smell it and see smoke. What are the symtoms that lead you to believe the clutch is slipping? How much free play do you have on the pedal. You should be able to push the pedal down an inch or so before you feel any resistance. Any signs of oil or fluid leaking under the bell housing? Have you checked the fluid level in the fluid coupling? Should be a procedure for doing so in your manual.

[_shel_ny]

Not trying to be a jerk, but are you familiar with how a "fluid drive" feels and operates? It is much different than the feel of a dry clutch set up even starting out in 1st gear. Starting out in  2nd, 3rd............ mush until the trans catches up with the engine rpms.

 

One item that will be a challenge if you should do this, is to get the transmission back in. Many including myself have used guide pins/guide bolts to aide in the process.

 

The guide pin/bolts will help you to keep the transmission somewhat level/aligned when removing/installing.

 

This thread is for an earlier floor shift vehicle, but other than the stick on the floor it would be the same.

 

http://mopar.pairserver.com/p15d24ph_forum/index.php?/topic/15448-clutch-change-help-please/?hl=%20guide%20%20pins

Edited April 6, 2013 by shel_bizzy_48

[Merle Coggins]

Even with a Fluid Drive a slipping clutch is quite noticeable, at least mine was (and it didn't smoke or stink,Don). Mine was due to solvent when I assembled it the first time it lasted a couple of years then wouldn't hold anymore when under heavy load.

It's not a bad job. Pull the transmission and then you can remove the clutch. The tricky part is removing the drive plate from the FD unit so that it can be surface ground for the new clutch. I have pictures of how I did mine, but I'm 2500 miles from home right now and don't have access to them.

When you go back together, guide bolts in place of a couple trans mounting bolts will help. There are also special tools for aligning the clutch plate when the clutch is installed. But I've do e a few clutch jobs without one. Just eyeball it as close to centered as possible, then as you slide the trans in to place, and it's close to all the way in but not quite, have someone depress the clutch pedal to release it and the disc will self align allowing the trans to slip into place.

Merle

[52dodge]

i do have a inch of free play in the clutch pedal, when i got the car i noticed the slipping so i checked the fluid level in the fluid drive,it was 100% full,i changed the fluid anyways and refilled it with ISO32 fluid,still slips,it mostly slips in 3rd gear going up a hill but will also slip in second with too much throttle when going uphill.As a test i put it in 3rd with my foot on the brake at a stop and it will rev right up,i haven't smelled any burning clutch yet cause i back off the gas when it starts to slip and allow it to grab again,im planning on replacing the clutch, pressure plate,pilot bearing and throw out bearing to make sure i only gotta do the job once,kanters has the clutch disc for $125 and the pressure plate for $125

[52dodge]

what size and pitch are the tranny bolts so i can go to the hardware store and get some threaded rod to make alighnment bolts?Also is there an inspection cover to take a look at the clutch disc without removing the tranny?I wanna be sure there no oil or fluid on the disc so i can try to get everything im gonna need to do the job.The fluid coupler was full when i checked it so i believe all is well there but wanna be sure im not gonna need any other gaskets while im in there

[_shel_ny]

Two small bolts on front are sort of hiding by the oil pan.

 

Not sure about the bolt size. I think 3/8 for guide pins.

 

You could pull one of the lower ones when you are looking at the pan/clutch and take it along to the store.

 

 

EDIT: You may need to replace the gasket between the trans. and bell housing.

Edited April 6, 2013 by shel_bizzy_48

[_shel_ny]

The transmission does not need to be drained for removal.

 

Just do not lay it on the left side, or tilt it on the front end. Gear lube will leak out the hole front left.

 

If you do replace the gear lube, NAPA has GL-1 for about $12 a gallon.

[seabee1950]

mariogallegos1957@hotmail.com or call Mario at 951-368-8156-360-8614

[52dodge]

One other thing i figured id address while its apart,something when i shift into second i get a slight/small grind,it never fights me going into gear just make an annoying little grind,will the new clutch solve this or is it a worn syncro?it only does it going into second and not in any other gear,i have a few local tranny shops with semi old timers but im afraid they wont be able to get the parts to fix the issue.

[Merle Coggins]

Sounds like a bad synchro. Might as well tak it in and see what they have to say. They may have a source for parts.

Merle

[Dodgeb4ya]

The correct syncro rings are sold on Ebay and should be easily located elsewhere. Your trans will use two of the same brass syncro rings.

[52dodge]

would anybody know the model or part numbers of the syncro ring?

[Dodgeb4ya]

would anybody know the model or part numbers of the syncro ring?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1941-1953-Plymouth-Transmission-Synchros-PAIR-Dodge-MoPar-Truck-/221204217692?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3380cc7f5c

[52dodge]

thanks! So these will be all my tranny guy will need to replace the syncros? I bought items from this ebayer in the past,

[Dodgeb4ya]

The input shaft bearing is also a common wear and noise item too on these transmissions after sitting or high mileage. The guy doing the transmission will know what to replace-hopefully! If they have it open they will inspect it for wear items. Generally input shaft bearing, syncro's and rear seal are the common replacement items. This std longer extension 3 speed is a pretty long wearing and trouble free transmission. 

[seabee1950]

Do the fluid drive Trans not have an adjuster ? I have never worked on one so though I would ask.

[52dodge]

thanks for the help! I ordered those syncros last night .

The input shaft bearing is also a common wear and noise item too on these transmissions after sitting or high mileage. The guy doing the transmission will know what to replace-hopefully! If they have it open they will inspect it for wear items. Generally input shaft bearing, syncro's and rear seal are the common replacement items. This std longer extension 3 speed is a pretty long wearing and trouble free transmission. 

[Phil Martin]

the fluid drive tranny takes 10 wt motor oil not gear lube

The transmission does not need to be drained for removal.

 

Just do not lay it on the left side, or tilt it on the front end. Gear lube will leak out the hole front left.

 

If you do replace the gear lube, NAPA has GL-1 for about $12 a gallon.

[52dodge]

I thought about changing the fluid in the tranny to see if the issue would go away but i think that would just be a band-aid.My manual also says 10w oil,thats what ill be refilling it with when i get it back

[oldsaber]

As a newbie to the site I appreciate any input.  Mine is a 1948 D24, fluid drive.  Like 52Dodge it is grinding when shifting, esp into 3rd,  The car is now at a transmission shop where they have said a problem may be "slop" in the linkage.

The question is does this sound reasonable or is it more than likely the syncro's as has been described.  Thanks

Edited April 8, 2013 by oldsaber

[48mirage]

the fluid drive tranny takes 10 wt motor oil not gear lube

 

 

The Gyromatic transmission needs 10w oil.  The fluid drive is not a transmission but a form of torque converter that requires iso32 hydraulic oil and the standard 3 speed transmission behind it uses gear oil.  If and only if he has the M-6 transmission should he be looking at 10w oil.

[52dodge]

i do not have the gyromatic,just a regular 3 speed standard

[_shel_ny]

the fluid drive tranny takes 10 wt motor oil not gear lube

 Sorry for the mis-direction on the lube. My 51 used gear lube.

[_shel_ny]

i do not have the gyromatic,just a regular 3 speed standard

Sorry for the mis-direction on the lube. My 51 used gear lube.

 

EDIT: If you should need it, GL-1 was referenced, as it seems from past posting info on this site, the syncros don't hold up to GL-5

Edited April 9, 2013 by shel_bizzy_48