seabee1950

Thanks I have seen a lot of sills that hold the carpet down with there sill, but also glue is fine, but what about if you need to get to the master cylinder. I will take all the help I can get as I will not be held up by this place that sells these for much much to much money. I like my car and I think it will be the best work on an old car I have ever done, because I have nothing but time to get it right, but over 400 bucks and if it were a 4 Door it would be more like over 800 to me that gouging and we all know the best of these cars will only bring in the twenty's if that. If it were a Chevy that as you may know bring higher dollars but these are not, and don't miss understand me, my love for these old Plymouths. So with that said I want to see if I can come close to the original sill by using fiberglass, might not work but I am going to try it.

That's a good look, I have though about that and they could be powder coated in any color, on the carpet side did you just put the aluminum sill over the carpet and it holds the carpet ok Thanks for taking time to post your reply.

I bought my car and the door seals were trash and I really feel like we are being held up by a company that is wanting to much for there product. I wondered what else can be used as a replacement. I will be trying a few things myself, and will keep posted.

I once built Trans and engine in a Corvette while testing it the cooling part of the radiator started leaking and went into the new trans and trans fluid invaded the engine and it coated the inside, so a guy told me to put a spoon of dishwasher soap Powder and run the engine till hot then keep flushing till its all out. The block was clean after that. As far as installing a new tube its better to remove the rear freeze plug as mine was full even after they dipped it in the tank, I dug for a while getting the gunk out. Powder

First I had just rebuilt my 218 and set it in the car hooked up to the trans and got it started, after a while I started seeing oil on the floor, hum thinking the new rear main was leaking, bummer right so I let that go for now but mind you the trans has been out for a few years and I can't get it to shift into low or reverse , so I pulled it out and the gear was stuck with light rust on the slide so I worked to get it freed and then before I reinstalled it I was reading about there needing to be a gasket between the bell and the Trans, so no more leak any longer and all is good in Mopar Land.

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Well who would of known Tim you are the man

I had an updated drive shaft made for my 1950 218 Plymouth BC as the original drive line has the boot covers and I think I bought new boots covers then decided to have one made. So I guess I have one for sale but I don't know what its worth and I am not going to be back in AZ till Oct,

I got something I need to ask. I need to find if there is a that someone that knows how to take the trunk lock and handle apart so I can Chrome the part that bolts to the trunk. Seabee1950

Jealousy Hummmmmmm give me there show I would take the money.

Hi Eddie Thanks for the heads up, to many people get tricked by these things.

I can't say it would be for everyone but as for me its my money my car and my likes. Just wanted to say if you want it do it I was told by a shop 700 for twin pipes, well I don't grow the money like Tim, but I do have my understanding of how to get things done my way. If its not to someone's liking to bad, I bought a box of thirteen 90's from JEGS and two 10 ft pipes 2 inch and I made my own. So far no mufflers as it sounds good but if I think later it needs them, I won't have a problem getting them on. I split my own manifold by cutting the heat riser out ( not much need for them in AZ) and welded a concave peace of steel that blocks the front three. If that wrong sorry it works for me. I get a lot of help from my Truck and car buddy's on this forum, passing the time with them or talking shop, most can give you an idea or tell you Hey ! did that and it did or didn't work. I have built cars for years and I love to play, as for making money with these old Plymouth or Dodge Truck, really don't think that will happen but when and if I get this project done it will be mine. I am saying all this to say if you feel like you want twins or 12 volt or an Alt, its yours. Ask you will get a lot of info and we all mean well but its your project just do it. Seabee Can Do Have Done

Every so often I used to drain my cars antifreeze, fill it with water and add a flush tube get it warmed up and add a teaspoon of dishwasher soap (Powder) then run it till the thermostat is open I run them about 20 min then start flushing, after several flushes I reinstall the Antifreeze that works for me seems to clean the inside of the engine.

Hey Germany I found where you were told buy Jerry Roberts on a post he made, he hammers on his tools, I was hoping you didn't take that advice. Ich wünsche dir einen schönen Tag

Sorry some how I though you were beating on your tools, guess I need to read before I post on things. I will say you might have heated the sprocket some and that might of helped you. Again Sorry I just got my engine started and it is a sweet sound, I wish you all the luck in your build. https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=865930076751776

I never use a hammer on my tools that are not made to be hit, if you don't have an impact then use a long brake over bar and more then that you got a real problem, I understand there are times when you MUST sacrifice a tool but it should be rare. I removed mine with a barker bar it was not that hard but then that's me. Like Tim said if its out, lock it on the rear of the crank then get it lose.

Bored out 30 thousands new NOS Pistons, Valves, rings my cam was fine and polished the crank as the bearings were replaced with stock ones NOS. and the oil pump was NOS, new motor mounts New gasket set and odds and ends was around 1,600 , my shop bill was around 900.00 My parts around 700.00 but worth every dollar.