ferdball Posted May 16, 2013 Report Posted May 16, 2013 (edited) 48 doger, I believe it's a b-1-b but it is a bit of a frankenstein so it nothing would surprise me. Took some photos, the mid cross member is solid on the bottom unlike the rear. photos included. You can see the hole in the frame inside the hole of the crossmember. Edited May 16, 2013 by ferdball Quote
Desotodav Posted May 16, 2013 Report Posted May 16, 2013 I see what you mean now ferdball. I've never seen a bottom-plated crossbeam like yours. I suppose that it would give a bit more structural support to the chassis, but it sure makes life difficult for you in doing anything with that suspension mount! I don't think that I'd be grinding off the rivets in your situation as you would have no way of getting to the back to tighten up mounting nuts for that bracket. You might have to continue in your efforts of removing the pin from the front. It shouldn't be in there too tight as they were only pushed in. Quote
Dave72dt Posted May 17, 2013 Report Posted May 17, 2013 Those rivets look to be exposed on both sides. I woulldn't be afraid of removing the rivets and using a press on the pin, rerivet or bolt back in place Quote
Merle Coggins Posted May 17, 2013 Report Posted May 17, 2013 In the service manual page, posted earlier in this thread, it shows a puller tool to remove that pin. You'll need a pulling rod that will thread into the hole in the end of the pin. I'm assuming it's threaded for 1/8" pipe for the grease nipple. You may have to fabricate a pulling rod that is threaded to match that with regular bolt threads at the other end. Then slide a tube over the pulling rod that has a slightly larger ID than the pin OD. Add a heavy washer or plate over the end of the tube and tighten down a nut. With a little heat and/or penetrating oil you may get lucky. Quote
4852dodge Posted May 17, 2013 Report Posted May 17, 2013 To remove the stubborn pins, remove the grease fitting and screw in a fine tread bolt of correct diameter(I forgot what it is). Hook onto it with a slide puller and go. Don't go too crazy with pressure, lighter taps worked best. It won't hurt to open up the pinch lock a little. I was able to remove all twelve from my two trucks with out damaging the the pin or bracket. Only one needed an assist from a drift from the backside, it was the rear set. Quote
ferdball Posted May 24, 2013 Report Posted May 24, 2013 Ok, so anyone got a pair of the rear hangars that they'd sell? I just assumed since they were on Bernbaums and Roberts site that they were commonly available but now I'm learning that it'll be until the end of august (maybe) until they are available..... I really dont want to be out of commission that long... Anyone know of a place I could find a decent pair besides epay? Quote
BobK Posted May 25, 2013 Report Posted May 25, 2013 (edited) Try Detroit Eaton Springs....I think that's the name they go by. Lots of springs and related parts and web site loaded with info. You will probably learn something new about working with leaf springs. I made my own rear spring hangers on my '46 and did away with the stock setup. Used a piece of heavy angle, some jeep shackle hangers and shackles for 1 3/4" wide springs. Check out Jeep and other off road suspension suppliers. If I could post pics I would. Edited May 25, 2013 by BobK Quote
ferdball Posted July 5, 2013 Report Posted July 5, 2013 Found some from rear shackle hangar brackets from DODGE CENTRAL, double the price of everyone else but I'm back in business. Have not put them on yet. Just painted the frame up to about the transmission... bed wood is done and ready to install. just did a lot painting today and when it all dries it's time to go back together. Here's some progress on the bed replacement that' turned into a "from the cab back on frame restoration" And that's the easy half....**WHEW** 1 Quote
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