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1949 Wayfarer Covertible 241 Hemi Engine Swap


mboer70

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I was looking to find out what I have to change to install a 241 Red Ram Hemi into a 1949 Dodge Wayfarer convertible. I was told it will fit right in? I am not looking to put a mustang II front end in it, I want to keep it all mopar. Thanks Mike

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paint by number is in isle 10, top shelf, left side...actually, unless someone here has done and documented the exact job the chances of a step by step and a list of items that will need changed, modified or eliminated is very slim....your best bet for the interim is to get under the car with the ole tape measure and start laying it out on paper.  Engine will fit the bay..but I seriously doubt it will be a bolt in...really don't see that happening..however with the Wayfarer body style you will have a large engine bay..I still see you moving the radiator tot he other side of the shell..the oil pan and pickup may not be a bother as the early chassis did not change much over these years...again, you will need to start looking and measuring..

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Not sure how much smaller the 241 RR is, other than the cubes. Are you considering buying one, or have it in the garage now?

Cuz if you have it, I say size it up and drop it in.

 

48D   

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I just finished putting a 354 Chrysler in my D24. There are a few issues that you will need to deal with. The Dodge is some what smaller than the Chrysler, that may help. You will need to evaluate the front motor mounts. You may be able to get a motor mount that bolts to the front of the motor, if not then you will have to weld in mounts that mount to the side of the motor. Hot Heads Racing can probably help you with this. The cylinder banks and exhaust manifolds may interfere with the steering box and the inner fenders. If the steering box and steering column are in the way you mat need to look into a rack and pinion set up. Fat Man Fabrications has a set-up for this. They also shortened a set of steering arms for me which helped alot. Revising the inner fenders is pretty straight forward. I cut out the step-off and put in another piece that allowed clearence around the cylinder banks. As for the rear motor mount that will depend on the type of transmission you use. You may need to weld in a new rear mount. As mentioned before you may need to move the radiator. If you can get away with original exhauts manifolds use them.

headers can be tricky with routing and clearence. Hope this helps.

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how soon you want to ride this pig may be the best answer to what engine you want to go with...fixing a flattie is not that costly considering it is already set up in the chassis. It  also very widely done and gets many oohs and ahs at the cruise in if you have twin carbs and twin exhaust and other period selected components....this is something only you can make happen...

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The flat head is in the car with a rod knock,  just want something with a little pop. How much horsepower can I get out of the flat head? what do I need to to do and where to go to buy performace parts?

Edited by mboer70
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start here on this forum..got to top right of page and use the search engine for dual carbs, dual exhaust...and other such mods that peak your interest..these have been discussed here many times..you can get your feet wet in the lingo and the actual items available real fast then fine tune your answers per your build

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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You will not get modern V-8 power from a souped up flatty. But you will get dependability and a car that can run down the road all day long at 70+ MPH. Installing an overdrive transmission is a big plus as is better differential gearing. Open your hood at a cruise in and you will get more lookers than the guy parked next to you with a small block shiverlay engine installed in his wombat,

 

side_view.jpg

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Dual intake, dual exhaust, dual point distributor, lumpy cam, .030" overbore, milled head, and a bunch of stuff I have forgotten. This is a Desoto 255 CI engine with a T-5 (5 speed overdrive) transmission and a Dodge Charger 3.55/1 differential. I have driven this car over 40,000 miles with this setup including many long road trips.

 

Where are you located?

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OK so you had more horspower to start with with the 255 CI,  mine is the 230 with only 100 hp,   how much hp do you think you have in yours?  what you did sounds about what I would like to do. Do you know any place that makes a tri power intake for the flat head?  I live near Chicago 

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yeah I know what your saying, I am just getting educated, trying to get a feel of which way to go.  I will let you know what happens.  Thanks Mike  ( by the way I used to live in Tennessee was the treasurer for the Music City Mopar Club for a few years back in the 90's.)

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This picture was taken at a Music City Mopars event a few years back. A friend from Indiana drove his P-15 to attend. My car was not yet on the road when this picture was taken. His engine is pictured below.

 

Here is a link to the rest of the event pictures. I believe this was in Franklin, TN.

 

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DonCoatney/library/#/user/DonCoatney/library/Boro%20Car%20Shows/Music%20City%20Mopars?&_suid=136381587769205256449587751027

 

TimandDon.jpg

Tim4.jpg

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The only mount available on a 241 hemi is a front style mount. There are no mounting ears on the block for L&R mounts. The original mount was under the water pump.

If your are still considering the 241, Speedway Motors has a motor/engine mount for that engine.  Not to take away from the challenge that others have noted, it would be a cool install but,....not for the faint of heart.  You'll also need to take into account steering column and trans issues.

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.... with a T-5 (5 speed overdrive) transmission and a Dodge Charger 3.55/1 differential...

 

8.75 ,9.25, or the 9.75 axle?

 

48D

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