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Posted

Just curious...if the GM ring gear is not supported by the rear case, how is it supported?

Posted

Dutchman,

The chevy (r-10 Od ) i bought this week is mostly taken apart and looks great inside (no water, rust, damage) ONLY early 70's 90wt. dinosaur stink and goo!! All OD parts looks very good!

I have not been able to get the output shaft with the ring gear out of the tailshaft housing yet. Probably the very rusty splines for the chevy drive front yoke. Soaking with pb blaster for a day or two and try again. Maybe Chevy trans need something else to be removed to get this out, but i'll get 'er done asap!

If nothing else i can part this out for a few $$ to put in my car! What else?!

Can you get a outside measurement of the ring gear to compare with the Chevy one once it's out?

Best to ya,

Doug

Posted

Just curious...if the GM ring gear is not supported by the rear case, how is it supported?

The GM ring gear and drum assembly is supported at the forward end by a  roller ball bearing and at rear -the longer splined tail shaft that the driveshaft sliding yoke fits over, that yoke is fully supported by a bushing in the rear of the case and the driveline yoke rides in it. This design keeps the ring gear and planet assembly from wobbling off axis.

In the R10 there is a rear roller ball bearing on a short tailshaft. The ring gear itself is supported for proper alignment by the case itself. As I remember the diameter of the Chev ring gear is slightly bigger and the finish of the outer diameter is mush rougher and would need to be machined to a very smooth finish and proper ID to fit the R10 case.

Bob

Posted

Dodgeb4ya,

 

Do you have any part pics of the chevy OD that show the tailshaft and internal parts??

The tailshaft and ring gear do NOT want to come out yet!  just want to make sure that it's just the rust on the tailshaft stopping the removal before i take it to a press to get it out! Don't want to break anything!

Thanks and best to ya,

 

Doug

Posted

Studebaker overdrives had a big snap ring that had to be released before the drum/output shaft came out. It is accessible by removing a tiny cover plate on the overdrive case. Chevy might have something like it.

Posted (edited)

Some misc. pics of a BW R10/R11 OD. To release the rear output shaft look for a small cover plate and inside is a snap ring you need to to spread to finish pulling the output sahft out of OD case.

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
  • Like 1
Posted

Dodgeb4ya,

 

On this output case i do not see any removable plate per you pics BUT i do see what appers to be a round freeze plug on the top side of tailshaft housing that looks be just above the front side of the speedo gear maybe that is the access to the snap ring holding the rear bearing in,  on this model has  cast # in the tailshaft housing R-10 K-1.

 

To late to try removing the "freeze plug" today, but free time tomorrow,

 

Thanks for the pics, i'll get 'er apart yet!

 

Doug

Posted

Dodgeb4ya,

 

On this output case i do not see any removable plate per you pics BUT i do see what appers to be a round freeze plug on the top side of tailshaft housing that looks be just above the front side of the speedo gear maybe that is the access to the snap ring holding the rear bearing in,  on this model has  cast # in the tailshaft housing R-10 K-1.

 

To late to try removing the "freeze plug" today, but free time tomorrow,

 

Thanks for the pics, i'll get 'er apart yet!

 

Doug

 That "freeze plug" was removable and did expose the snap ring. Once the ring was expanded tapping lightly on the output shaft  it all came out easily! Thanks alot, you prevented me from breaking some parts if i had taken it to a press to try to get it apart!

 

That done,  the outside measurement for the ring gear is  4.2735, with a machined surface but is sort of a rought cut- difefinately not smooth enough to serve as the side load carrier surface.

 

Dutchman now you a measurement to compare with your Mopar R-10 ring gear outter dia.

all parts look to be in good useable condition.

 

Best to ya,

 

Doug

Posted

Glad you found the snap ring access. Wrong pic's I posted but in general they helped you out and that was the idea!

Bob

Posted

Glad you found the snap ring access. Wrong pic's I posted but in general they helped you out and that was the idea!

Bob

 

Got me looking in the right area, which worked out fine, thanks again.

 

Just spent the last hour trying to get info on the R-10-K-1 and only Finally found a blow up of parts with the round plug. Still no idea of what Mfg. built the main 3 sp.. Best guess is Saginaw at this point. Plan to part it out and need to know!

 

Oh well, another day!

 

Best to ya,

 

Doug

Posted

Well, I sent my rear case to George for him to check it out and possibly rebuild it with Chevy parts.

He said that the chevy R10 Sun gear, Planetary gears, ring gear and sprag with the rollers would work from the 62 Chevy OD.  

Doug- let me know how much you will need for the parts and when I her back from George, I will send you $ and you could send the parts straight to George.

 

Hopefully this will work great in the end!

 

Thanks!

Dutchman

Posted

Dutchman,

 

When George tells you that he can repair the case, let me know and i'll clean parts up some and see what they weigh boxed.

Also get Georges address then to calculate the shipping.

 

Good luck with repairing the OD!

 

Doug

Posted

post-188-0-82826500-1363563798_thumb.jpgI sure don't like to hear bad things like this.I rebuilt my R10 overdrive and installed it in my P20. and nothing!

I got my overdrive manual out and read it through and through. I think I got the Blocker ring out of position. on page 10 and 11 of the Borg warner manual I read how to re position the Blocker. has anyone ever had to reposition the Blocker ring using this to correct the position that I have high lited in my attachedments. is there an easier way?

post-188-0-12390700-1363564064_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

I rebuilt two R-10 OD's about a year ago and found that it was very easy to install the OD shifter arm incorrectly to where to OD will not engage.

The factory manuel is the easiest way to correct improper blocker plate alignments, but try this first as it is easier,

 

Remove cable from the OD shifter arm. Try moving it, you should feel the internal spring resistance when shifted in/out.

If not, the arm was installed wrong. If no resistance the pin holding the shifter arm must be removed and arm reinstalled.

I'm thinking?? if the trans is shifted into reverse, the OD in/out is pushed reward  to lock out OD function and install arm temporally  ,take trans out of reverse and check again for in/out resistance from spring.

 

Hope this is of some help.

 

If OD arm rsistance is OK, try the blocker alignments procedure,

 

Good luck,

 

Doug

 

ADD: i assumed that you have checked all electrical funtions first! MY BAD! This is way easier than anything i mentioned! Check all this first, before I get creamed for my post!

Edited by DJ194950
Posted

A pic of the blocker ring/plate and pawl assembly and orientation......

Posted

Doug, shifter rail is ok. the lockout switch closes the controle circuite is ok. the solenoid energises but the pawl does not go all the way in. thats what makes me think that the blocker ring is out of position. I will follow the procedure out lined in the manual. I just thought maby someone had a trick up their sleve as to how to get the blocker ring in its correct position.

Thank you for you feed back.

Posted

Harvey,

 

Hope that factory"adjustment procedure" works!

 

Best to ya,

 

Doug

Posted

Well, this past weekend I was all set to drain the mix of GL-1 and GL-4/5 oil out of my transmission so that I could replace it with the new GL-1 oil I have.  Both of the drain plugs were right out in plain sight, and things looked good until I tried to get the drain plugs out.  I'd guess they haven't been removed in 60 years, because I couldn't budge either one with an open end wrench.  So I sprayed them with penetrating oil and went online to find a 7/16" 4pt socket.

 

Guess what; no one stocks them!  After a couple hours of searching and phone calls, I ordered some 8pt sockets, which I hope will get them open, but I would rather have used a 4pt, so that I would be assured of breaking them off if they are truly frozen in place.  If I can't move then again I'll get the wife with a fire extinguisher and try heating up the nicely oil-soaked case with a MAP gas torch to see if I can loosen it up.  Wish me luck!

 

Marty

Posted

"frisco"??? Don't go using that slang term anywhere near a person who is from San Francisco.

 

I'm from The City and I saw the 'frisco' and just threw up in my mouth alittle.  Yes, please don't use 'frisco'.

 

FG.

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