Carburettor

[IanT_Qld]

Got my 52 pilot house running, using the battery this time (last time - tow start 15mth ago), I was suppried how long it lasted cranking the engine. (New Battery bought 2 mths ago.)

Anyway, I have a leak from where the accelerator shaft goes through the bottom on the carby, towards the front of the vehicle,same side that the fuel line comes in. PS attached photo is not my ute but shows where I mean.

The carby seems to be two different carbys put together. the top has the identifing number 6D1 DTF1 stamped on it. moulded in the top is Carter St Louis USA. the bottom half were the leak is has moulded into it Ball & Ball Carburettor Detroit Mich. USA. Is this the case or some other story?

Would the stamped Number be sufficent to order a Carby Kit (PS, I'm naive enough to not know what a "Carby Kit" is but have heard of it, I assume it will include seals and stuff that may fix my problem.

Also any recomendations as to where I could get a Carby Kit, in Australia?

[Young Ed]

That 6d1 number from the fin that goes up to the air cleaner attachment? That should be the number to get a carb kit. The carb kit comes with gaskets and stuff to rebuild the carb internally but they don't usually come with anything to repair a leaking shaft. You'd have to take it all apart and get a bushing put in there to fix that. Then finish rebuilding with the kit.

[claybill]

OR...you could buy another old carb, a cheap one and switch bottom ends. just make sure he throat diameter is the same. then do the kit. kits are usually on ebay too, probably not the same number as you have but in most cases all kits will work 95% for that carb. usually $15. on ebay or 20.

bill

[PatS....]

Got my 52 pilot house running, using the battery this time (last time - tow start 15mth ago), I was suppried how long it lasted cranking the engine. (New Battery bought 2 mths ago.)

Anyway, I have a leak from where the accelerator shaft goes through the bottom on the carby, towards the front of the vehicle,same side that the fuel line comes in. PS attached photo is not my ute but shows where I mean.

The carby seems to be two different carbys put together. the top has the identifing number 6D1 DTF1 stamped on it. moulded in the top is Carter St Louis USA. the bottom half were the leak is has moulded into it Ball & Ball Carburettor Detroit Mich. USA. Is this the case or some other story?

Would the stamped Number be sufficent to order a Carby Kit (PS, I'm naive enough to not know what a "Carby Kit" is but have heard of it, I assume it will include seals and stuff that may fix my problem.

Also any recomendations as to where I could get a Carby Kit, in Australia?

My Carter master carb listing shows for 1950-53 DTE1, DTE2, DTG1 so yours being "export" and not likely to be on this list fits sequence with the ones that ARE listed, so I would say you have the correct carb. Your carb is supposed to be a Carter Ball & Ball so what you have seems to belong together.

Kits are available, maybe one of the other forum blokes in OZ can point you in the right direction for a kit.

[IanT_Qld]

That 6d1 number from the fin that goes up to the air cleaner attachment?

Yes that is the number I quoted, and based on Bills sugestion, i will start bidding on a kit for the 53-later? aussie dodge currently on e-bay in Oz. So far it is still cheap money to loose, if it doesnt fit exactly.

It seems I will have to look into bushing/o-ring, as I have not seen carbys on e-bay in Oz. Or get a better bigger Holly! (but I want it original.. Oh the confusion)

[IanT_Qld]

My Carter master carb listing shows for 1950-53 DTE1, DTE2, DTG1 so yours being "export" and not likely to be on this list fits sequence with the ones that ARE listed, so I would say you have the correct carb. Your carb is supposed to be a Carter Ball & Ball so what you have seems to belong together.

thanks as I would like to keep it original, does the Carter master carb list any DTF1? any year or engine size?

I know the metal work on mine is similar to a 1950 B2B, judging from internal door pannels. I also know it is a Canadian 25" 218 block. I find it intriging, the differences between the export and "original" american trucks.

[Young Ed]

That kit should fit but I worry about old kits being dried up. These kits are still available from the everyday parts places here. BTW be aware if you do try to mix and match that at some point they added an extra screw to the bottom/ base attachment.

[PatS....]

There is a NEW kit available made by:

Hygrade Carburetor Repair Kit, Division of Standard Motor Products.

Part number 101A

UPC# 0 21769 06648 2

I can get you a new one and send it over if you have no luck on eBay. PM me

[Tony WestOZ]

Ian if this is the kit you are referring to it is for the 230 engine run in the cars.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=015&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=250113449136&rd=1&rd=1

From my carby parts book they were a BBS series which have an auto choke and not a lot of the part numbers correspond to the parts list for a DTF1 carbs.

I have had troubles with old gasket kits before. They tend to dry out and shink causing problems with fitting.

Where the shaft is loss in the body, the only way I have found to fix it properly is to fit brass bushes. Finiky little job.

I shall go through my stock of carbs tommorrow and see if I have a good base I can send you.

Tony

[IanT_Qld]

Tony,

That was the kit I was looking at - haven't bid yet, and now won't. Thanks for looking for a base. Alternatively a carby shop should be able to rectify the loose shaft, hey?

As a 2nd option I found www.dodgeparts.com.au and will try him for the seals, I suspose.

PS Tony - do you want the measurements and detailed photos for the sun-visa still?

[greg g]

If it leaking there it is probably leaking when its sitting or idling as the vacuum shuld be drawing air into the carb when its running. Before getting into the whole rebuild thing, check the float level. If it is set to high ( I set mine a little shy of the factory spec) it can lead to having fuel flow in after the engine is shut down from residual pressure from the fuelpump. Also today's gas is more suseptible to heat expansion the yesterdays stuff. So after shut down the fuel in the bowl acts as a heat sink for the under hood temp and expands overflowing the bowl puddling on the closed throttle plate and wicking out of the throttle shaft. So check and reset you float level a bit and see if it make any difference.

[IanT_Qld]

The truck had been sitting for 6yrs then short run 1 yr ago I discovered the leak.

When First started this time the leak was not a problem (I assume gummed up) and the engine ran suprisingly smooth, after possibly 5-10 minutes of driving around the paddock (tray full of 7 kids - an enjoyable asspect of old trucks), the leak was back and the engine wouldnt idle, but would drive, however the fuel leak (being above the manifolds) drove fear into my heart.

I know nothing about setting the float level, will check the owners manual, for clues.

[IanT_Qld]

Before getting into the whole rebuild thing, check the float level.

Thanks Greg for the clue; I fired it up and once warm the fuel started to apparently flood out the accelorator shaft, this made little sence as this low in the carby the fuel should be vapour. The float chamber was filling up and the fuel was leaking down the thing I am pointing at (see attached photo) and running down the link and appearing to come form the butterfly shaft. So all I had to do was get the float right in the chamber. Didn't need adjusting, just getting right, I must have buggered it when I cleaned it 15 mth ago.

Now I move onto problem No. 2 the leaky Radiator.

[greg g]

Glad that worked out simply. It might be that your gasket is interferring with the float coming all the way up and close the needle into the seat. I think I might trim it back a bit to allow the float its full travel.

[Tony WestOZ]

Great to see you have made some progress Ian.

Unfortunetly the old carbs I have all suffer the same problem as yours as far as the shafts go, all a bit loose so not much luck there.

The price you were quoted for the carby kit does not sound to bad. I got a price off one supplyer in the US at $35(US) each. With postage etc it would come close to $60 (AU). Someone on this site might be able to help with what is available in the US.

[IanT_Qld]

PatS (ex Queenslander or married to one, cant remember) offered to purchase one and send it, but I think it would be easier to get it locally. I will also get a price off the dodgeparts.com.au bloke also.

[Desotodav]

I read through this old thread with great interest as I have just removed the carburettor from my truck with a view to running a kit through it. It would appear that my carburettor lists a different set of numbers to Ian's though.

Now that you're back on-line again Ian, how did you go with the carby kit that you were chasing?

Does anybody out there have any listing for my carburettor which might make my finding a kit easier? It appears to read 6F2 DTF2 (see photos).

Desotodav

[catfishcuz]

Try this site. Butch WWW.carburetor-parts.com

[Young Ed]

Here in the states a kit for that carb is available from the regular over the counter car parts places.

[greg g]

Check your float level. usually raw gas flowing out there means raw gas is getting past the float bowl. All fuel other than the raw jet from the Acc pump, should be atomized and be only 1 part gas to 14 parts of air as it passes the throttle butterfly.

[IanT_Qld]

Actually got one from M&D Auto in Stanthorpe, I don't remember the details but it was listed in their parts book as a range of 50s dodge trucks. I cant comment on how it well it fitted as it is in the trucks Glove box, not trucks carburetor sort of left well enough alone once the leak was sorted. ( Earlier i commented on how long my battery cranked for - turns out it was a 950CCA battery, it now dead though, left to long. )

[Desotodav]

Thanks for the advice guys. I dropped the carby to the repair man today and he pulled it apart while I was there. He reckons that it all looks pretty good. He said that the leather on the fuel plunger needs a little stretching and the whole inside just needs a good clean out. He said that they use to have a heap of pre-fifties spares for carby's a while ago but they threw it all out thinking that they would never need them.

I'll drop over to the paddock in the morning and raid one of my other motors for a replacement linkage. The gasket kit that I bought a while ago should take care of the minor weep. All going well, we'll be back on the road by the weekend.

Big show on at Calypso Bay (Jacobs Well) this weekend Ian. I won't have my truck there though as I'm waiting on the roof lining (again).

Desotodav

[CJT12345]

Ian, have you bought a new battery yet? When was the last time you actually started Grandad's dodge?

[Rusty O'Toole]

1) Leaking fuel out the throttle shaft means the carb is flooded. It does not necessarily mean you need an overhaul. Gas will always leak out there if the carb is flooded for any reason.

2) If the throttle shaft is worn, the only symptom will be an uneven idle. In other words, you can adjust the idle to specs but sometimes it will idle faster or slower. Also, you will have to screw the idle mixture screw out farther than normal to get the engine to idle.

The throttle shaft can be repaired by reaming the holes oversize and installing a larger shaft. This is a standard part of rebuilding a carb but not something you can do at home. To do it right you need a special pilot reamer and oversize shafts.

3) If you decide to do an overhaul, kits are generally available from your local motor factor. At least try there first. A normal kit consists of gaskets and seals and a few other parts, in some cases on an old carb you will need to buy other parts not included such as a float or new jets.

4) When you do a carb job do not go by the instructions that come in the kit. They are incomplete and filled with errors. Get the manufacturer's instructions from the factory repair manual for your specific motor. Either the vehicle manufacturer or the carburetor company.