brake hose routing

[cybermca]

i have just finished my disc brake install using rusty hopes brackets. the first side took me 2 whole weekends to finally get all the right parts and holes drilled and tapped. the 2nd side took 1.5 hours. anyway, i am concerned about the extreme bends on the brake hose and the fact that seem to just lay on moving parts. i have emailed charlie at rusty hope a couple times but he has no answers. he says he has never had any problems with the hoses. he also has no suggestions. here are the pictures i sent him. what is different about my car than everyone else's. any suggestions?

1950 plymouth suburban..

thanks.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Those hoses rubbing the knuckle support won't be safe. The design and location of brake hoses is critical for longevity and safety as you probably know.The hoses need to be changed and hoses with the pre-bent steel pipe at the caliper end need to be used. That will be some what of a challenge to find. I install them on new cars all the time. You could look through a brake parts book (pictures) section of hoses to find a couple that will work.

Bob

[chopt50wgn]

Using 45 deg or 90 deg fittings will be a better way to go. They will give more adaptability to route the hose away from any heat or moving parts.

[cybermca]

the caliper has notch built into that requires the hose to exit in that direction..

i also can't return my hoses since i cut off the mounting tab around the hose ( per charlie's instructions). anybody actually install this kit with this brake hose specifically? i was under the assumption that he would have figured all this out, since i gave him $200 and he gave me a specific parts list.

his supplied bracket, spacer, and bolts were well thought out, but the instructions are quite vague.

i feel like my wife with a piece of furniture from ikea...

[Plymouthy Adams]

are the parts the exact ones recommended by Charlie's kit? this is maybe apples and oranges but on my 41 Dodge I have the brake connector mounted to the frame just at the top and to the rear of the shock relocation upright...makes for a nice gentle loop from the bottom of the caliper to the top of the frame where the steel line connects..

[DJ194950]

Since the inner hose mount bracket is only held on with two 5/16 bolts, why not try unbolting and move it arround to see if there is a place that works?

Will have to modify/ replace steel line and drill two new mount holes but may be easier that trying to find a hose that fits. If memory correct their self tapping bolts.

Good luck,

Doug

[littlemo]

I used all of Charlies reccomended parts on the front of my 48 P-15 and had very few problems. I did for clearance issues relocate the brake line brackets. ( see my build thread: 318/5.2L Mopar Fuel-Inj manifold swap, page 3, posts # 121-132.) Hope that helps a little. Cass, alias littlemo...

[cybermca]

these are the exact parts on the list.

i think i might make up a small center mount similar to the bracket i already removed, and tack weld it to the middle of the upright. that would at least keep it from rubbing on anything . the lower bend in the hose looks similar to other pics i have seen of people's install, so i guess that's how its supposed to be.

[Guest bewillie]

Can't tell from your pic's,but do you have the capilers on the wrong side?

[Mark Haymond]

I nicked one of my front disk brake lines and had to reroute them. I can only offer a general goal, not having used Charlie's kit.

The rubber line must stay away from the moving rotors in full left or right turns. The rubber line must not get stretched or twisted during full up or full down travel of the control arms. Checking left to right is easy, checking for full spring compression (bottoming out) is more difficult. Jack up the frame to observe the full downward travel of the front suspension.