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39 Plymouth coupe & intro


gunnibronco

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Hi,

I joined up a little while ago, and had been reading a few threads before that. I want to introduce myself and my "new" car.

I am completely new to building any kind of hot rod. I've built a modified 74 Bronco over the last 15 years. I worked for 4 years at a bodyshop until recently, mostly metal & repair, but I picked up on some painting. I learned how to do body work right, and enough to pass my ASE Master Collision Tech tests. Unfortunately, the economy of my little town forced me to go back into sales to pay the bills. I grew up working for a guy who restored GTO's, and bought and sold a few hot rods while I worked or him.

I made a deal with a friend who has too many cars, to buy his 39 Plymouth Coupe after he showed me a couple of old pictures. I always wanted to build a hot rod, and I really liked the lines on this car, and he told me it was in good shape and nearly complete. We went to Grand Junction a few weeks ago and picked it up. It is really in good shape, some rust in the floors, the motor & trans were swapped for some GM V6 & 3 speed, but was never finished. It was missing the center grill trim & emblem, head light reflectors, floor pan, but not much else. I did the nasty task of cleaning 30 years of mouse & rat nests & droppings out a couple weeks ago. The smell is slowly getting better.

After I brought the car home in early August, I started really reading into these cars and realized finding parts isn't easy. Through a round about way, I found a guy very close who had a "pile" of 39 Plymouths & parts. I bought them and started bringing them home this week. I didn't need most of what I bought, but he wanted to sell the whole lot. I got nearly every piece I was missing, lots of spare parts, and some fenders & other pieces that are in better shape than mine. There are parts from a coupe, a sedan, and a 4 door. I'm going to post up a thread in the classifieds soon, with the sedan & 4 door parts that won't fit my car.

Since I'm still reading and learning a lot, I have an evolving vision of how I'm going to build my car. The body is too solid to cut up, so in the end the exterior and interior will stay very close to original. I do want to install a modern driveline, I have a Ford 9" from my 74 Bronco, and would like to install a V8 & auto. I live in the mountains of Colorado, at about 7700' and have to drive mountain passes and deal with lots of elevation change and remote/no cell service driving, so an EFI motor is very likely going to end up in this car. I've already read about using the stock front suspension and moving the shock mounts, and updating to disk brakes. I want to be able to drive this car anywhere, so safety and reliability are required. And being at nearly 8000' elevation we loose almost 30% H.P. due to the thin air, so the old flat head 6, just won't power a this car around Colorado.

Chad

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The 39's have really cool lines. Wish mine was a floor shift! Welcome to the forum and good luck with your project. Since your going the streetrod route you may want to offer up your stock parts here on the forum. You might get a few $$ back to help pay for the new pats you have to buy while helping someone restore a car.

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Saw your thread on the Hamb, welcome aboard. That mouse smell is hard to get rid of, I'm in the same boat, my car has been stripped of all its interior for over a year I've blown and vacuumed it out but every now and then I still get a whiff of it.

The biggest hurdle to putting a V8 in one of these cars is dealing with the steering box, either the engine has to be moved over for clearance or the steering box has to be moved. Both the Ford and Chevy small blocks are pretty narrow, the Chrysler small block is a little wider, but all three fit without major surgery to the frame or firewall.

Good luck with the build and keep us informed.

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Thanks,

The smell is actually getting better.

Here are more pics of todays delivery. A coupe that had the interior bracing gutted. Everything above the windows is ok, one door is pretty straight, firewall is ok, floor is ok, in spots. I'm going see if I can sell it off along with the sedan body. I'm going to keep the extra chassis, I think it will really help make the build easier.

The pile of parts included doors, hood, fenders, seats, etc from a 39 4 door that I think the guy scrapped. He thought the body was in good shape but didn't think "anyone wanted a 4 door". A real shame, but hopefully someone can buy the doors I'm going to sell and get them back into use. Along with the motor & trans.

I spent the day going through my new parts car delivery and will be posting some of the stuff up for sale. I'm going to start by selling stuff specific to the 4 door and the sedan, that won't fit my coupe. I'll have some fenders, bumpers, seats, dashboard, steering columns, etc. to sell as I decide what I want to have keep as "inventory" for my build.

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Edited by Gunnibronco
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I've gone through and acquainted myself with my pile of parts. I've put a few big items up for sale. I'll be going through the smaller stuff, fenders, bumpers, lots of inner fender panels and braces, and putting some of it up for sale soon.

Is there a difference between coupe, sedan, and 4 door leaf spring packs? I have a set, probably from the 4 door, and a set still on the chassis from the sedan. And the set on the coupe I'm going to build.

What are common ways to update/improve the rear ends of these cars? Are the old spring packs able to perform with a V8? Basically, should I keep the springs I got? or sell them to someone who wants stock stuff?

The driveshaft I got measures about 58.5" flange to flange. I'm assuming it came from the 4 door. Can anyone verify. I haven't crawled under my coupe to see the driveshaft, and with 4 flat tires, it wouldn't be the easiest thing to do.

Finally, I put pictures of the motor & trans up here:

http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/gg78/c-w-a/motor%20and%20trans/

And was wondering if anyone could tell me what year, etc, or anything about it. Or if there are numbers I need to get from the motor, let me know. I'd like to learn more about it, even though I don't plan on keeping it.

Hoping I can get rid of a few items quickly. I was offered a fairly fresh 440, but need to replenish the hot rod fund.

Chad

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You need to clean off the engine number. Its on the flat spot right under the head. There is a piece of old steel line pointing right at the spot in this picture.

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Thanks, I will and post up info.

Anyone know what this is? It looks like a chrome cap or center piece, with the Plymouth ship. I can't figure out what it is.

Chad

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This is a stearing wheel center horn button and does not attach to any of the horns that are inthe engine compatment.

This is the center button that you push to get the horns sound.

Might do a search on Ebay on Plymouth Horn Buttons and you might see a picture with a year attached to it.

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

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This is a stearing wheel center horn button and does not attach to any of the horns that are inthe engine compatment.

This is the center button that you push to get the horns sound.

Might do a search on Ebay on Plymouth Horn Buttons and you might see a picture with a year attached to it.

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Looks like its a horn button from a 49 - 50:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-1950-PLYMOUTH-HORN-BUTTON-RAT-ROD-SCTA-HOT-ROD-/221032813180?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337695127c&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1950-Plymouth-Mopar-Original-Horn-Button-/370474505046?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5642005356&vxp=mtr

I don't think it belonged in the pile of 39's. The center button on the 39 is different.

Thanks for the help.

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Thanks that is good info. I'll compare the spring perch measurement to the 74 Bronco 9" I have that I'd like to use. The wheel mounting surface is 58.5" so its very close to the 60" listed. I don't know the spring perch measurement, I'll cut them off & weld on new ones if they don't match. Might have to to get the pinion angles good anyways.

Sorry, I was more interested in suspension upgrades than possible rear end swaps. I did not word that well. I guess the stock rear spring packs are a good way to go, unless you want to go coil overs/control arms.

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No problem....its actually pretty easy, the prefix letter gives it away, C for chrysler, D for dodge, P for plymouth and I for industrial...my car was different since it has a factory replacement motor and the stamping were by hand...threw me off till someone here helped me out that it was a reman block...my reman tag was gone before I ever got the car....block is cast with '48 though the car is a '40....add my car was origonally grey but the PO{s} repainted it dark blue...it'll stay this way.

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I have a '39 Plym conv coupe which I have been working on since I found the car sitting in a field in Montana.

I like cars that are reliable, safe, and can be used to drive locally and on extended road trips..

I did a lot of research on the options available to up-grade/modernize the mechanical aspects of my car... I wanted to retain the original looks of the car. Of course the Mopar purists advised me to put an early Hemi engine, or a 440 w/727 trans and a Ford 9" in the car if I wanted to improve the performance..

After much research I settled on a FatMan front clip w/power rack and 11" disk brakes.. FatMan is the only company that makes front clips especially designed for the Plymouths..

My engine is a 2002 350 CID 330 HP w/ 700R4 trans.. The rear end is a early Camaro/Nova 10 bolt, 8.3/4"... The rear end measures 54 1/4" backing plate to backing plate, 61-1/2" OD... The 54-1/4" ID measurement is the same as the original differential. I used Posie rear springs... I had to make special rear shackles "C" shaped because the original style open "U" shackles tended to rotate the spring.

My wheels are special made steel 15x7 with early spring clip type centers to fit my original '39 hub caps. Tires are P205R60/15 front & rear.

The car has PS, PB, AC, cruise & tilt. It drives like a dream cruising at 70 mph turning 2,100 rpm... Emergency stops and/or maneuvers are handled like any modern car.

My one regret is that I did not use a Mopar 340/360 engine... Maybe someday I will...Bill

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Edited by blucarsdn
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That convertible is very cool. I saw a '40 convertible at our car show this summer. Nice to see the wood grain interior. I could tell there used to be wood graining on my trim, but its so faded out its almost white. What kind of steering wheel is that? I like the old horn button. Is your outer horn button ring chrome?

Looks like my Bronco 9" is close to the right width, spring perches are a ways off, but thats no big deal.

Still thinking about motors. We'll see what happens. I live in the boondocks, so I'll probably end up grabbing something that becomes available in my area. Its a 2 hour drive to the nearest salvage yards.

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