40plyrod Posted June 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Thanks Bill, pics would be great. Do they also use a separate plastic spacer with a chrome ring between the handle itself and the door panel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 10-4,...gimme a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 Here you go,......... - I thought these worked particularly well for my P15. Part #s are 01A-702400 for the door handle, 01A-702780 for the window crank and 01A-48139-SS for the escutcheon. Manufacturer is Vintique Inc. There web site is "underconstruction" so good luck finding photographs which you really need to decipher diff. details. There are many style options from 38 to 41 Ford standard, delux and truck. I was able to view them all on a POP display. All would work mechanically. Vintique product is carried by every Ford resto parts source like Bob Drake, Dennis Carpenter, Sacramento Vintage Ford, et al. I'm sure you will find frustration in trying to find photo images to help you make appearance decisions. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmartin Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 Here is a quick pic of the handles in my Roadking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted July 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 Thanks for the pics and part #'s Bill, I would be hard pressed to not to believe that those weren't factory p15 door handles the way the ribbing on them matches the dash, I'll check them out with our local speed shop. I obviously don't have 1940 plymouth handles by your pic Bmartin thanks for posting. I was told the 40 door handles were a little delicate and prone to breaking so maybe that was what happened to mine and they were replaced with what they had laying around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 And another thought,......short of finding good photos of the various handle options, consider looking into any late 30's early 40's Ford cars or trucks for ideas. All that hardware has the same interface as Mopar. The hardware styling for cars of that era is all pretty similar as that was what was popular at the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted July 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2015 There's so much to do on this project that I kinda jump around like I have ADD. I would like to have continued working on the doors and windows but since I need a windshield and back window rubber to put in the new glass and because I'm low on funds as well as the problem of the Canadian dollar tanking compared to the American buck I've had to go back to working on less costly projects until I can save enough cash. So I'm on to polishing the trim. Awhile ago I won an auction on ebay for what was listed as 1940 plymouth grill bars but the pictures weren't very clear and my inexperience caught me, long story short they turned out to be '41 grill bars and after sending the seller more money than he quoted for shipping and then being charged for the shipping COD when it arrived as well, I decided to make them work instead of telling my wife of the amount of money I spent for the wrong parts. I kind of like the '41 bars on the '40 although I doubt anyone will ever notice. All that was required was a buck to hold a bar while I cut it to length and then hammer the end over, I did that part over a year ago, so today was just polish and install. Everything has gone well except for a couple of thing.1) The clips I found to mount the bars needed spacers so that the nuts could be tightened without hitting the flanges on the body. 2) I'm not able to get nuts on the bottom bars at all because of the lower splash pan being in the way (I'm assuming the proper clips just snapped into the holes and weren't threaded) And 3) Long ago when I modified these bars I made 2 the same so now I have one that is too short so I'll have to search the mopar guys in the area and see if I can round one up (I'm not taking the rest of them back off and shortening them ) Here's some pics 1st and 2nd is the buck I made for holding and folding over the '41 bar ends 3rd is the clip and spacer for attaching the bars 4th is the car missing one tooth 5th is a grill closeup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted July 27, 2015 Report Share Posted July 27, 2015 Looks great! Hate when I do a bone-head move but after a few hundred, it's less painful and you forget the ones that no one notices if,..... you can resist the temptation to point out your goof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted July 27, 2015 Report Share Posted July 27, 2015 Those pics of the 40 Ford handles are what I used on the 41 Plymouth, brand new, nice chrome, looked better than the Plymouth handles, ribs matched the rest of the car and they were cheap......I'd use them on my Oz 40 dodge if they'd fit......lol....andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted July 29, 2015 Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 This car is getting better and better and even better... You're definately not scared of details Cool journey to follow, i always like to come back to this thread and see your progress! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmartin Posted July 30, 2015 Report Share Posted July 30, 2015 Those turned out real good. Looks factory or better. I actually found the stock clips from Restoration Specialties (IIRC) and they were not outrageously priced. I think I picked up 10 for $15 with shipping. May solve your problem for the bottom ones. I tried the clips you are using and didn't have the best luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted July 31, 2015 Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 if your still looking for interior handles,, i just seen an add from jegs.com,, they have hot rod interior door handles,,they come with adapters to fit square,,round,,etc drive all included 26 bucks a pair,,,give them a look,,,but i do liek the ford handles you guys are showing,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted August 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 Been roughing it away from the computer camping with the family for a while so I haven't been able to thank you guys for the kind words. Bill, I'm getting pretty good at making bonehead mistakes (Trust me, there's plenty that never see this forum ) Thanks Andy and fstfish for the door handle info I'm putting that part of the project on hold for a while. Cpt.Fred, the details have always been a love/hate thing for me. . . I love seeing them. . .hate doing them (necessary evil though) Bmartin I'll check into those clips. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted September 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 Been a while since I updated...Hmm I've been busy finishing outside projects before the snow flies so not much has been done on the 40, however the parts are still being collected. I had no luck finding a 41 grill bar locally so decided to just put the short one on. . . not as noticeable as I thought but I still know it's there ( I guess so do you too ) I hate having to do thing twice and promised myself that this car would be built "right" from the start but I obviously haven't done that and also can't stand having my back beaten to hell by poor suspension so I'm going to make some changes. When I originally modified the suspension I moved the spring pockets to the bottom side of the lower A-arms and since my original coils were sagged and broken (one of each) I replaced them with a set I had laying around, 54 Oldsmobile springs. When I put them they brought the suspension back up to stock height so I cut some coils to get it back down.(It rides like being on a po-go stick) I also relocated the upper shock mounts and installed new shocks however the part number I was given was Monroe 33033 which I always thought were too long (turns out that number is for the back shocks ) and so they bottom. Well after doing some research I've decided to try to fix all this. I'm going to try out a set of Moog cc850's and the proper length shocks Monroe 5257. I also recieved my windsheild and back window seals from steel rubber. . . (ouch ) Some pics. . even got the "herd" out today for a group shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted September 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 Well the "missus" took the kids to do some more shopping for school and I was given some time away from my chores for good behavior, so I thought I'd start my suspension redo. Started by measuring from the ground to the fender lip as the suspension is now to give myself a base number. That number turned out to be 23 3/4" (I wish I knew how to insert pics into the text but since I don't pics will follow in order. . . I hope) Following picture is the suspension as it sits now unloaded. (you can see the coil pocket moved to the bottom side of the A-arm) I removed the shocks that are on there now as well as the 54 Oldsmobile coils. Next picture is the old shocks (blue) next to the new ones (black) as well as a pic of the coil springs (saggy stock one left, 54 Olds middle and Areostar right) At this point I could see that the areostar springs are quite a bit shorter than the stock spring and the modified 54. Probably too short for the moved spring pocket but I decided to install them anyway and see what the end result would be, it's pretty quick to change out the springs. 5th pic is the measurement from ground to fender lip with Aerostar spring 1/2" lower again. Statically I like how this looks but I think for practical driving (I plan to drive this a lot) it's not going to happen. So I'll probably look at moving the pocket back up to the top or maybe somewhere in between. I still took it for a drive and I can't believe the difference! Even with it being lower and the odd bump bottoming the suspension on the snubbers (3/4" suspension travel see pic) it rides a million times better ( modified 54 Oldsmobile springs= BAD, uncut Areostar springs= GOOD ) After the drive I'm even more committed in my thoughts of keeping the Aerostar spring uncut and moving the spring pocket to achieve a balance between desired ride height and drive-ability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 How's the overall stance of the car look? Ya know you can get a little more travel and soften the "bottoming out" by taking a hack saw to the bump stop and making a diagonal cut, leaving a point in the bumper 1/4" lower. and I tend to go with the axiom, "if it rides okay, it's not low enough". 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted September 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 Back from the shop again. . .didn't take too long to remove the A-arms and coils and remount the coil pocket back to the top side. when I reinstalled everything again the car sat higher and I definately gain suspension travel but "yuck" unless I'm changing build direction and building a "Gasser" this isn't going to do. So back out it'll come and I'll change the A-arms some more. I've heard of people with early chevy IFS cutting the A-arm ends off and welding them back on higher or maybe I'll modify the spring pocket some more and fit it 1/2 way between the top and bottom of the arm. 1st pic it apart again (most likely not the last time) 2nd modified A-arm 3rd restored A-arm 4th the travel I gained 5th 27 1/4" WHAT 6th Half hearted Nosebleed Gasser stance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwrstory Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 By now I'll bet you can remove and reinstall the A arms with your eyes closed,....in the dark, eh! I found the same dilemma on my Ford wagon and the movement of the spring pocket yielded dramatic differentials in height, like 1/4" yielded a 1" diff. in ride height. Keep playing and you'll love the results! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmartin Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 I'm curious how the ride difference is between the 33033's and the 5257's. Are you able to identify if the coils improved the ride or if it was the shocks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Haymond Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 I had my 47 Plymouth sitting where I wanted it with dropped spindles but the original soft springs would let it bottom out on rough roads. I changed to stronger springs. This worked OK but my front end was sitting too high. I took out the springs again and removed one coil. It took a few tries to get it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 (edited) I read what you are saying but the spring rate did not cause any soft ride...only the position of the wheel spindle moved up and in doing this did the chassis move closer to the road surface..the distance between the upper and lower A-arms did not change.... Edited September 14, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted September 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 By now I'll bet you can remove and reinstall the A arms with your eyes closed,....in the dark, eh! I found the same dilemma on my Ford wagon and the movement of the spring pocket yielded dramatic differentials in height, like 1/4" yielded a 1" diff. in ride height. Keep playing and you'll love the results! I got it now so that I can disassemble the front suspension in about 10 minutes You're right though, you don't have to move the spring pocket much, I'm sure there's a math calculation for figuring out how much but I can't remember or I wasn't paying attention in math class. I think it was on this forum where someone was talking about cutting coils to the right height by "sneaking up on it", I think I'll use the same method. Bmartin, I don't think there's much difference between the two shocks except for length. The 33033's could only use the very bottom of the stroke and when hitting the smallest pothole would bottom, although I did think of changing just the shocks at first to see the results i knew the coil springs were also the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted September 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 I read what you are saying but the spring rate did not cause any soft ride...only the position of the wheel spindle moved up and in doing this did the chassis move closer to the road surface..the distance between the upper and lower A-arms did not change.... Spring rate changed when I swapped from the modified 54 olds spring to the aerostar springs (I cut two cooils off that spring) and from what I've read would change again as I cut coils off the areostar spring making it shorter with less coils. That's why I'd rather move the spring pocket and leave the spring alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 Posted Yesterday, 12:41 PM I had my 47 Plymouth sitting where I wanted it with dropped spindles but the original soft springs would let it bottom out on rough roads. I changed to stronger springs. This worked OK but my front end was sitting too high. I took out the springs again and removed one coil. It took a few tries to get it right. Posted Today, 09:42 AM Spring rate changed when I swapped from the modified 54 olds spring to the aerostar springs (I cut two cooils off that spring) and from what I've read would change again as I cut coils off the areostar spring making it shorter with less coils. That's why I'd rather move the spring pocket and leave the spring alone. I see a big difference in yesterday's post and supplied information compared to the post this morning post and added information...to that end I can now see your situation....your changes were many with reference to a single item that I replied to..many folks do either a coil cut or a dropped upright...unless just slamming on the ground..there is not a need to do both.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40plyrod Posted September 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 Well I'm back at it and I think I got it this time. I've moved the spring pocket back down to the bottom of the A-arm again, I didn't like the height with it on top and didn't want to stiffen the spring by cutting a coil. When I originally moved the spring pocket to the bottom I wasn't really committed to moving it in case I made other changes so with that in mind I didn't cut the flanges off the spring pocket (letter A) in the 1st picture and instead made a 3/8" spacer plate to allow the pocket to bolt tight against the bottom of the A-arm (letter B ) and then I made a stiffener to beef up the bolts under that (letter C). Well, after taking some measurements and drawing some pictures (actually a lot of pictures ) I realized that the A-arm is approx 18" long and the spring is positioned 1/2 way along it, when I moved the spring pocket from bottom to top I moved it approximately 2" and the suspension moved from 23" to 27", so 2" spring pocket movement gained me 4" ride height. Which meant that cutting the flanges off and removing the 3/8" plates would gain me 3/4 of an inch (about what I needed). My ride height is now slightly higher than the height with the crappy '54 olds springs and it rides much better. It may still settle a bit and I may have to be careful around the bigger potholes but I'm ok with that. Now to take it all apart again and gusset and finish weld the A-arms and repaint. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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