radiator questions

[46Ply]

Yea, I know.  Reality will eventually set in.  I'm just waiting on my brother right now.

I just figured it would be worth a shot to try and flush it out.  It's definitely not a show car, and never will be.  I did price a Walker at around $700, but that ain't happening either.  I'm ready to pull the trigger on the Champion once he lets me know.  

[1941Rick]

I pulled the champion trigger a couple of years ago after a $700 quote to recore....never any regrets.

[Young Ed]

I'm running originals in both my 46 and 48. Both were cleaned out at a local shop and work just fine. Car is up to 20K miles since I built it and its never had issues running hot. I think the biggest deal is both mine have rebuilt engines that were hottanked so the passages are clean.

[soth122003]

46ply,

 

Don't use muratic acid. I used about a gallon of CLR and a gallon of hot water and let the rad soak for about 45 min to an hour, rotating the rad from the front to the back then top then bottom and then side to side. Got a lot of crud out of the rad. Flushed it out and then used dawn dish washing soap and water (recommended by the rad shop) and soaked it for a couple of days. Temp runs at 175 degrees now and it only cost me about 5 bucks for the stuff from dollar tree.

 

Joe

[46Ply]

Update on radiator:

Up to now, if you drive the car 50 - 55 it doesn't heat.  But does start to overheat above 55.  The car has the original 3.9 rear axle.  If this considered normal I'll either have to live with it, or consider an axle change and/or OD.

My brother reported that he has taken off both hoses, flushed it out several times with no major discoloration or junk coming out.  He tested the flow by plugging the bottom outlet, filled the radiator and pulled the plug, got about 3 or 4" spout of water from the bottom outlet when he pulled the plug.

Also contrary to advice otherwise, he did use a muriatic mix with water for a short period, and only got  a little brown residue, but still nothing major.  Reported that the radiator looks good, with no obvious prior repairs, leaks or dings.  Refilled it with antifreeze mix, but hasn't had a chance to drive it yet.  He's on the way KentuckySpeedway to the Nascar race this weekend.  So, will have to wait and see what we get.

At this point until we see if there is any reported change, I think I would have to assume the radiator is okay.  Sure don't want to replace it and find out it doesn't make a difference.

As I have previously reported, this engine has supposedly been rebuilt, but the old man I bought it from had absolutely no information regarding what was done.  I can only report that it does run well.  

So now, I'm thinking the next step would be remove the welch plugs and flush the block.  If it flushes out a lot of junk, then take a look at that WDT. 

[Don Coatney]

Interesting. Do you really think an axle change or overdrive transmission will cure an over heating problem????

[55 Fargo]

Update on radiator:

Up to now, if you drive the car 50 - 55 it doesn't heat.  But does start to overheat above 55.  The car has the original 3.9 rear axle.  If this considered normal I'll either have to live with it, or consider an axle change and/or OD.

My brother reported that he has taken off both hoses, flushed it out several times with no major discoloration or junk coming out.  He tested the flow by plugging the bottom outlet, filled the radiator and pulled the plug, got about 3 or 4" spout of water from the bottom outlet when he pulled the plug.

Also contrary to advice otherwise, he did use a muriatic mix with water for a short period, and only got  a little brown residue, but still nothing major.  Reported that the radiator looks good, with no obvious prior repairs, leaks or dings.  Refilled it with antifreeze mix, but hasn't had a chance to drive it yet.  He's on the way KentuckySpeedway to the Nascar race this weekend.  So, will have to wait and see what we get.

At this point until we see if there is any reported change, I think I would have to assume the radiator is okay.  Sure don't want to replace it and find out it doesn't make a difference.

As I have previously reported, this engine has supposedly been rebuilt, but the old man I bought it from had absolutely no information regarding what was done.  I can only report that it does run well.  

So now, I'm thinking the next step would be remove the welch plugs and flush the block.  If it flushes out a lot of junk, then take a look at that WDT. 

Hello, sounds like still some restriction going on in your cooling system, whether it be clogged passage n the water jackets, or the water tube is partially plugged or is corroded off deep in the block.

The rad, hmm, still could be a problem, even if it has been flushed and is flowing okay.

While I do agree, if you have 4.11 gears and you are driving the ole girl hard over 55 mph, higher RPM, higher crankshaft load, equals a lot more heat, that is a given, yes an Overdrive or a set of 3.55 gears would lower your RPM at higher speeeds thus allowing your engine to run somewhat cooler, but does it solve your problem.

I have not read all the posts on here yet, but do you suspect any issue of your lower rad hose collapsing at higher RPM restricting flow?

I would pull frost plugs and water tube, and mechanically rod out and flush all the crud out.

You could then button the whole thing up, and run straight water with Electrosol dishwasher detergent, for a good 50 mile run, drain and refill with water, run then flush, add coolant. That recipe was employed and used by Lou Earle from Georgia and has hrlped clean up a few old flathead 6s for him, I have also done this with success.

Good luck, and keep us posted

[55 Fargo]

If you pay to clean you will still have a 60+ year old inefficient radiator prone to failure. New aluminum radiators increase engine cooling efficient and can be had for a very reasonable price. The choice is yours.

Don, a lot of these rads are still in use and doing fine, not that what you are suggesting is bad.

Copper and brass, are a far superior heat transfer than aluminum, but aluminum rads have larger passage, and are welded with similar metals, not such with copper and solders.

While I see nothing wrong with your approach, many of the older rads were built with quality materials, and some are in very good shape, so do not see why he should not have it cleaned, with a boiling or something similar.

[46Ply]

Thanks Fargo, appreciate the advice.  We've already considered our next step will be to pull the plugs and flush the block.  And that's a good idea about taking the radiator to a shop.  And I like this idea too:  

           (You could then button the whole thing up, and run straight water with Electrosol dishwasher detergent, for a good 50 mile run, drain and refill with water, run then flush, add coolant. That recipe was employed and used by Lou Earle from Georgia and has helped clean up a few old flathead 6s for him, I have also done this with success.)

Each thing we do to it will eliminate a question.  Since we didn't have any history on it when we got it.  If we pull the water distribution tube, I'll have to try and find someone to do that for me.  

One other thing I have done is to change the tires to a larger diameter.  215/70/R15s. = 27" diameter. Not necessarily my first choice but we already had them.  I came with 205/65/R15s.  Not that big of a change, but should help.

 

And no Don, I don't think changing axle ratios, OD, or larger tires solves heating problems.  I'm just looking for solutions.  This is an all new ballgame for me and I'm just trying to learn from everyone here who's been down this road.

[Young Ed]

My brother reported that he has taken off both hoses, flushed it out several times with no major discoloration or junk coming out.  He tested the flow by plugging the bottom outlet, filled the radiator and pulled the plug, got about 3 or 4" spout of water from the bottom outlet when he pulled the plug.

 

That is not enough. Should be double that. We had one that did that and we thought it was ok but eventually had it cleaned out and the radiator was full of mouse nest. Find a radiator shop and have that thing cleaned

[46Ply]

Thanks Ed,  Will do!  Need to find a good radiator shop in Illinois around Galesburg, Moline, or Peoria area.  Would they take the tanks off or need to?  I'm sure a good shop will know the answer to that question.

Edited July 11, 2015 by 46Ply

[Young Ed]

Thanks Ed,  Will do!  Need to find a good radiator shop in Illinois around Galesburg, Moline, or Peoria area.  Would they take the tanks off or need to?  I'm sure a good shop will know the answer to that question.

I didn't watch but I believe neither of mine or the 50 of Dads that was full of mouse gunk was taken apart to be cleaned.

[austinsailor]

Thanks Ed,  Will do!  Need to find a good radiator shop in Illinois around Galesburg, Moline, or Peoria area.  Would they take the tanks off or need to?  I'm sure a good shop will know the answer to that question.

Is there such a thing as a good radiator shop anymore? The ones around here that used to be good have all changed hands to kids who know nothing 

.

[Young Ed]

Is there such a thing as a good radiator shop anymore? The ones around here that used to be good have all changed hands to kids who know nothing 

.

Dad just had one for his 67 F100 boiled out 3 weeks ago and they appear to have done a good job. I agree though fewer shops around.

[meadowbrook]

My 50 has the original radiator, I flushed it with a rad flush solution till it ran clear then flushed the block and refilled. Runs fine any weather.

[meadowbrook]

I should measure the actual water temp, but my gage run steady exactly

between the right most mark and the middle mark