Young Ed Posted May 15, 2012 Report Posted May 15, 2012 First on the list fixing exhaust leaks. Pinholes in the muffler and the heat riser needed new bushings. Here's the kit installed. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 15, 2012 Report Posted May 15, 2012 good going Ed...its the little things that eat way the most time but well worth it in the end...did Carmon help? Quote
Young Ed Posted May 15, 2012 Author Report Posted May 15, 2012 good going Ed...its the little things that eat way the most time but well worth it in the end...did Carmon help? She and Leo came out to watch a bit on Saturday when I was pulling the manifolds off. Monday I was in the garage by myself and then had to take it to Dads to do the final fit and welding. Next step I'm going to do some repainting of the engine. After almost 10 years its getting pretty ugly under there. Anyone know how long POR15 engine enamel lasts? I think the can is 6-7 years old. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 15, 2012 Report Posted May 15, 2012 POR15 usually has a fair shelf life..it is only once it is opened and exposed to air/humidity that the unstoppable cure process begins..I have been able to keep an once opened can usable for good three weeks later when I place it is the freezer..it does not harm the paint to do this.. if you can shake the can and it is liquid..you should be set to go.. Quote
MarkAubuchon Posted May 16, 2012 Report Posted May 16, 2012 Ed, just went thru the repaint of my 47 engine. I used the POR 30, higher temp resistance. Quote
Young Ed Posted May 16, 2012 Author Report Posted May 16, 2012 If my can turns out to be wrecked I'll keep that in mind. I do have their engine paint-not trying use plain por15 on my engine. Quote
Young Ed Posted May 21, 2012 Author Report Posted May 21, 2012 Here's the before picture of the engine. I wire brushed the heck out of what I could get to on saturday and put a coat of the por engine paint on with a foam brush. Yesterday it rained most of the day but after dinner I did manage to get out there for a bit and touch up the thin/missed spots. Tonight I can start putting the engine back together! One thought-after only ~8 years the 4 bolts holding my manifolds together came out quite crusty and looked like another year or two and they would have broken rather than came out. These were grade 8 bolts with a liberal amount of antiseize on the threads. Anyone got anything better? Stainless? Quote
Young Ed Posted May 29, 2012 Author Report Posted May 29, 2012 Well another week has gone by time for a progress report. Got the manifolds ready to go. Took me quite a while to wrap my brain around assembling the counter weight. The shop manual doesn't mention much other than rotating the spring 355 degrees. Well mine ended up about 365 but I bet it will work. Anyway I was trying to figure out how the dampner piece goes in there. Finally I got desperate and took the weight off the engine for the 40 ply project and discovered my weight had been messed up at some point and the screw put in from the opposite side. This leaves nothing to hold the dampner piece. So my options were to drill out the broken screw in the one I removed(it didn't cooperate on removel of course) or find a longer screw and use a nut to hold the dampner. Well I didn't like the nut and bolt idea so a longer screw it was. Quote
Young Ed Posted May 29, 2012 Author Report Posted May 29, 2012 Then I put the two studs that had come out back in the block with a little permatex and thought I had trouble removing some of the other nuts why don't I clean up the other threads. The first 12 went just fine and then I got to the very front one and this happened. So project back on hold until after memorial day BBQ when I could come home with Dads stud remover. So hopefully tomorrow I'll actually get the manifold back onto the block. Quote
55 Fargo Posted May 29, 2012 Report Posted May 29, 2012 Looks Good Ed, another project gettin done.......... Quote
Young Ed Posted June 2, 2012 Author Report Posted June 2, 2012 Here's the current progress. One step forward another step back. Everything on the passenger side is ready to go. Last fall I discovered that my spare coil I carry has the connections on the top instead of the bottom making my coil to dist wire too short. So I decided to replace it with a few inch longer one. Went to reinstall the new wire and the stud wouldn't tighten. The little fiber piece in the dist that holds the stud broke. Quote
Young Ed Posted June 4, 2012 Author Report Posted June 4, 2012 All put back together. Let it idle for about 10min to get the thermostat open and the coolant back in. The heat riser didn't move. Should it have? How do I make sure my kit is working? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 4, 2012 Report Posted June 4, 2012 Ed, when revving you should see the it rotate, the spring is still cool it will return back to position..only when hot will the tension relax and allow the flapper to rotate open.. Quote
Young Ed Posted June 8, 2012 Author Report Posted June 8, 2012 Got my seatbelt in the mail from Julianos. Very easy to put in. After dinner the wife and I took the little guy to DQ. It was the first ride of the year for her and the first ride ever for him. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 8, 2012 Report Posted June 8, 2012 Good deal Ed...nothing like a trip to DQ or Sonics for that matter...more of a Sonic fan myself..they make a good Strawberry Shake... Quote
Young Ed Posted June 8, 2012 Author Report Posted June 8, 2012 DQ is our tradition. Carmon and I went there on our first date. I will admit though I don't get by with just a plain cone for her anymore......... Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 8, 2012 Report Posted June 8, 2012 DQ is our tradition. Carmon and I went there on our first date. I will admit though I don't get by with just a plain cone for her anymore......... funny how it goes from "I don't want to impose" to "you owe me sucker" but yet they still look sweet in your eyes.. Quote
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