turtle47 Posted April 24, 2012 Report Posted April 24, 2012 I've tryed several attempts to remove the tube with several different methods . I didn't realize how rotted it is , first attempt I got a 2 inch piece to come out , then a second attempt I got a 4 inch piece to come out , after that nothing . No matter what method I use or how hard I try it won't budge , there's a lot of rust in their . I was trying to remove this before I took the block to a machine shop to have it tanked , freeze plugs installed , cam bearings , etc . So I was wondering , should I just go and have the block tanked & machine work done to see how much will come out in the tank solution instead of mangling it anymore than I've already done ? Quote
Ed Griffin Posted April 24, 2012 Report Posted April 24, 2012 You should try the search tool for water distribution tube. I know this has been discussed many times on how to remove it, what to use next etc.. . 1 Quote
turtle47 Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Posted April 24, 2012 The search tool is where I started , I used some of the ideas posted there but I have had no luck getting the whole tube out Quote
Booker T Posted April 24, 2012 Report Posted April 24, 2012 As mentioned above, there are lots of threads about this as it seems anyone with one of these motors has had to deal with this. Mine was in good shape when I pulled it out so I used what was within arms reach (welding wire, socket, washer). It seems the trick is to get something to hook onto the "distibution slots" in the tube...sometimes pulling piece by piece. You can see these "slots" in the picture of my tube below... Quote
turtle47 Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Posted April 24, 2012 Well if a piece at a time is how it's gonna be , I can live with that as long as I get it all out Quote
RobertKB Posted April 24, 2012 Report Posted April 24, 2012 When you go to replace it, buy a brass one if you can. They stay in nice condition with no rust. They are out there from several vendors or on ebay. Quote
Jim Shepard Posted April 24, 2012 Report Posted April 24, 2012 I made this when I had to remove my tube. Fortunately, it came out pretty easily, but I think it would still work with a problem tube. As was said before, you need to "hook" the slots at the top of the tube. Quote
turtle47 Posted April 25, 2012 Author Report Posted April 25, 2012 I made a few different designs using tig welding wire that I'm gonna try out . In pieces but it's coming out either way Quote
Don Coatney Posted April 25, 2012 Report Posted April 25, 2012 As I have said many times, failure is not an option. Quote
turtle47 Posted April 25, 2012 Author Report Posted April 25, 2012 Well I'm gonna give it a shot tomorrow , right now I'm drowning it in penatrent oil Quote
Darbone85737 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Posted April 25, 2012 I can't believe I have something to add here Had the same problem a while back and asked the same question. What wound up working for me was a 1/2 inch wide steel bar, slightly longer than the water channel, ground on one end to a chisel shape. I drove the bar in between the distribution tube and the block on each side. It bent the tube inward slightly and freed it from the block. The tube was then removed easily using a wire coat hanger with a hook bent in to catch the slots. It was pretty "moth eaten" by rust and corrosion. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 25, 2012 Report Posted April 25, 2012 a good inexpensive rod to use is the flat bar for stretching/terminating chain link fence to the end post.. Quote
turtle47 Posted April 30, 2012 Author Report Posted April 30, 2012 Well it finally came out , but in pieces . Several to be exact. The fence bar & a tig welding rod with a hook bent into it did the trick thanks to all that helped me Chris Quote
Nate48PlymSD Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 I can't believe I have something to add here Had the same problem a while back and asked the same question. What wound up working for me was a 1/2 inch wide steel bar, slightly longer than the water channel, ground on one end to a chisel shape. I drove the bar in between the distribution tube and the block on each side. It bent the tube inward slightly and freed it from the block. The tube was then removed easily using a wire coat hanger with a hook bent in to catch the slots. It was pretty "moth eaten" by rust and corrosion. After trying every other trick I could find on the forum, I was about to loose it trying to get that darn thing out. As a last resort, I may have disassembled my fence to get the steel bar needed and ground the end to a chisel shape... (It was also close to midnight, so purchasing one was out of the question). Tapped it back gently, and pulled it back out with a slide hammer attached to it. Grabbed the crushed end with a pair of needle-nosed vise grips with a cable loop attached, and levered it out with a wooden dowel. Great suggestion! Thanks! Quote
Niel Hoback Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 Chrysler engineering meets Nates engineering! Quote
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