Do-it-yourself wiring

[48mirage]

Like everything else there are different grades of the vinyl electrical tape. If you buy the cheapest you can find at like wallyworld you will find in time that the glue dries out and the vinyl gets brittle. You can end up with the tape unwinding on its own and breaking when you touch it. The vinyl tape is fine, buy a good grade that is good for both cold and hot temperatures. It will probably outlast the car.

[Jim Saraceno]

Here is a diagram that has the wire gauge on it.

When it comes to electrical tape, 3M's "Scotch 33" is the top of the line, though I have a hard time believing that any plastic tape wouldn't tend to unravel and leave a black gooey mess behind at the temperatures and conditions in our engine compartment. (I'm and electrician and I use this stuff all the time.)

Hint: When wrapping the tape keep it tight and even stretch it a little. At the end, leave the last 3 inches unstretched, cut the end with scissors or knife, then finish applying it without touching the sticky side. This will help prevent it from unravelling.

FWIW: Cloth "hockey" tape is friction tape.

[PatS....]

Thought we covered this subject a few days ago.

Guess I missed it...sorry:(

[Young Ed]

If I'm seeing Jim's chart correctly there is a 1 in the battery cable so I'm at factory spec with my new 1 gauge cables.

[Norm's Coupe]

If I'm seeing Jim's chart correctly there is a 1 in the battery cable so I'm at factory spec with my new 1 gauge cables.

Ed, I just saw that too. One gauge is all you need according to that.

[Normspeed]

Same here,must have missed that thread.

Guess I missed it...sorry:(

[Plymouthy Adams]

think of current as you would beer...why sip when you can gulp...ok..its late..I worked too much in the sun doing yard work this evening.

[Young Ed]

I remembered something else I read on the truck forum I belong to. Might also help you guys with the funky gas gauges. Apparently its important for the 2 wire systems that the 2 wires be identical length. I'm wondering if thats why mine doesn't read right? I get about 2/3 reading when the tank is full and it runs out just before E(dont ask how I know). And the running out early could be from the dents in the tank-truck tanks always took a beating....

[Plymouthy Adams]

I doubt that unequal wire length would be your problem..at most it may be what about 1 foot maybe too..given the resistance of the wire...and for example 12 guage has a ohm rating of 1.53 ohms per 1000 feet...nah..look for poor connection...float arm not lifting 100 percent.

[Normspeed]

With old Mopar fuel gauges I use a backup check for fuel level. I lick my index finger and hold it up to the wind. Either the gauge or the finger trick work equally well.

Also heard dowsing rods work well.

[Norm's Coupe]

Ed, I think I agree with Tim. Don't think equal length would have anything to do with getting a reading like you do. It's probably either a bad float on the sender or the sender guts is not sending properly. Especially if you've already replaced the wires to it and know they are good as well as the fuel gauge itself.

[Guest rockabillybassman]

I replaced the entire wiring in my P26. Just followed the diagram in the manual, plus a few alterations for 12v conversion and adding turn signals. One thing I did do was to go through and solder all the lugs after crimping them. I 've never trusted crimping on it's own.

[Normspeed]

I crimped and soldered all of mine and used heat shrink insulation. But some folks say that soldering auto or boat connections will lead to broken conductors later due to vibration. Time will tell. Bob Amos may have some thoughts on that.

[Plymouthy Adams]

A lug that has been over crimped will destroy the wire faster than any soldering..in the boat business..US Navy..wiring is crimped and also soldered..might I add that the pliers used to crimp are tested for proper crip depending on wire size, lug size. It is not just done helter skelter. A properly calibrated crimper is a full squeeze for perfect connection one time everytime.

Stake-On is the crimper name you want for your automotive wiring..

[martybose]

Tim beat me to the punch in mentioning the Sta-Kon crimpers. The biggest source of unreliability in crimp connection is that most crimpers are poorly designed. If your crimper is basically two flat (or slightly round) surfaces that just squash the connector flat, you should throw them in the nearest trash can. A Sta-Kon crimper jaw has one side that is semi-circular to match the radius of the connector; he other side has a much smaller protrusion that actually crushes a small portion of the connector into the wire bundle. The crushed portion really locks the connector onto the wire. I have never had a reliability issue with any connection that I made with the Sta-Kon.

I've had my Sta-Kon's for over 40 years, after I learned about the use of them while working summers for Pacific Bell while going to college. I believe that Klein still makes the machined steel Sta-Kon's like my original one.

Marty

[Plymouthy Adams]

Right you are Marty, Klien is the manufacturer. After my original pliers disappeared after many years of service, I bought a new pair at the swap meet in Moultrie, GA. Cost was 14.00 for new..well worth the cost if you do any automotive wiring. I be working electrical today on the bigbutt coupe.

[Plymouthy Adams]

For those interested, these are the pliers in which we speak. The wiring in the background is just minutes away from sanity...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2007_0429Image0002.jpg

The fuse panel is totally wired at this time...every fuse is used..plus a couple other protected circuits on the aux panel up and back from the panel whcih hold the flasers for turn and hazard, AC circuit breaker and horn relay.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2007_0429Image0004.jpg

And last is the relay panels and connectors behind the right kick panel. We have wiper motor mounting here. remote entry controller, relay for the back up lights, door entry solenoids, door lock/unlock relays and two not pictured or connected for the single door switch control of three seperate functions.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v79/bigaadams/2007_0429Image0003.jpg

Just a tad advanced over the standard 1941 wiring.

[martybose]

Right you are Marty, Klien is the manufacturer. After my original pliers disappeared after many years of service, I bought a new pair at the swap meet in Moultrie, GA. Cost was 14.00 for new..well worth the cost if you do any automotive wiring. I be working electrical today on the bigbutt coupe.

Interestingly enough, right after I posted my reply I decided to Google Sta-Kon, which turned out to be a registered trademark. I soon found that my original tool was in fact made by Thomas & Betts, who are still in business. Specifically, it's their model WT111M. Here's a link to their 54 page PDF file of their first-class electrical terminals and tools:

http://www-public.tnb.com/contractor/docs/stakon.pdf

Marty

[PatS....]

Tim beat me to the punch in mentioning the Sta-Kon crimpers. The biggest source of unreliability in crimp connection is that most crimpers are poorly designed. If your crimper is basically two flat (or slightly round) surfaces that just squash the connector flat, you should throw them in the nearest trash can. A Sta-Kon crimper jaw has one side that is semi-circular to match the radius of the connector; he other side has a much smaller protrusion that actually crushes a small portion of the connector into the wire bundle. The crushed portion really locks the connector onto the wire. I have never had a reliability issue with any connection that I made with the Sta-Kon.

I've had my Sta-Kon's for over 40 years, after I learned about the use of them while working summers for Pacific Bell while going to college. I believe that Klein still makes the machined steel Sta-Kon's like my original one.

Marty

Is this the kind?

[martybose]

Is this the kind?

No; mine look almost exactly the same as the first photo link in Tim's posting.

Marty

[Plymouthy Adams]

Yours being a Thomas and Betts and mine not being like my original as I recall there were two different crimp holes for the basic industry standard red and blue lugs. The lugging tool Pat has I have used..they are a bit bulky and they ratchet..once you start the crimp you must follow through the cycle before it will release again.