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Posted

I hauled it home, tinkered with it some, and I think I should just start a new thread to just cover the restoration.

I took the head off and pulled all the valves, to day I got new ones and some gaskets. We're leaving town for a couple weeks so I can't stay focused, but I'll be all over it when I get back.

But, this evening I'm so darn excited about it you wouldn't believe.

All the body panels fit just right, hinges are tight, everything seems better than you'd expect for a 60 year old car that has mostly sat for 40 years.

I took the brake drums in and had them turned as they were rusty, hoping they'd be usable. He told me they were perfect and had never been turned before.

Steering has no play in the box or elsewhere.

Tonight I cleaned up the block deck and pistons and was looking for an oversize stamp on top. Couldn't find any, but it obviously had been bored since there was not enough ring grove to catch your thumbnail. Got my calipers and it measures exactly 3 1/4".

I believe the odometer, which I had not put any stock in, is actually right at 11972. I don' think the thing has been driven hardly at all.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Last night I put the head back on after replacing all the valves. I'd soaked the rings with Sea Foam for most of the last 3 weeks.

Tonight I messed with a leak in the fuel filter, went through several junk rotors until I found one that would fit right. Checked compression, about 110 all down the line.

Cranked it over, fired up and runs good - well, good for not having the points, timing or valves set. No smoke at all, runs even, I think with some tune up and tinkering it's going to be a fine motor.

Now to get on the new brake system, patch the seats up fit to sit in, and get the windows to open.

I even went and bought the license today, so when it's at all drivable, I'll hit the country road outside!

post-1283-13585367506472_thumb.jpg

Posted

Well sounds like a project that will take a lot of work. If you want I can take all those problems off your hands... :rolleyes:

Posted

If you need any small parts let me know as im recycling 3 cars worth of random parts in the next two weeks.

Posted

What sort of parts do you have? If you mean recycle as in crusher, maybe we can save some of them.

At this point what I need are new chrome parts. I have a complete new brake system. That should get it on the road.

I plan to drive it for a few months, see what is what, then this fall tear it apart and rebuild.

Upholstery is pretty bad and will all have to be redone. Not much body work, mainly sandblasting. Probably some wiring replacement. A few floorboard patches, but it's basically pretty straight and solid.

My wife told me tonight she thought I'd get it running, but sure didn't think it would be this soon. I thought it took way too long - guess it's all in your perspective.

Posted

I have a lot of parts that were easy to take off, some wiper motors, dash parts, heater controls, interior handles/cranks, grill pieces, firewall mounted electrical stuff, a complete gauge cluster, some engine parts, fluid drive parts

Posted

I started it up today, let it get warm and adjusted the valves.

After running about half an hour all smoke was gone, even racking the throttle up and down to high RPMs and oil pressure is 60 at an idle hot.

Sits and idles like a sewing machine.

I think this is going to be a good runner! Do I sound excited?

Posted

Got to mess with it a little more late this evening. Got the front stripped and ready for new brakes.

Of more interest, I changed the fluid in the rear end. I've drained a few dozen really old rear ends over the years. They were all filled with really black heavy oil with that old smell.

This one had the old smell, but the oil was close to new looking. I think that is another sign the mileage shown is real.

I'm going to change the transmission fluid as well, but I'm not sure what you should put in an overdrive. A search brings up a link to a page from a Borg Warner manual that says straight mineral oil, between 40 and 50 weight, or transmission oil of 80 or 90 weight, depending on driving conditions.

That was written many years ago and "straight 40 weight mineral oil" might not have the same meaning today.

Would this include any non multi grade engine oil, like 40 wt, not 15-40, for example? Old fashioned 90 weight gear oil? Detergent or non detergent motor oil? The only thing real clear is not to use a hypoid gear oil.

I have a couple ODs and it would probably be in my best interest to find out what it really should have in it.

Posted
Got to mess with it a little more late this evening. Got the front stripped and ready for new brakes.

Of more interest, I changed the fluid in the rear end. I've drained a few dozen really old rear ends over the years. They were all filled with really black heavy oil with that old smell.

This one had the old smell, but the oil was close to new looking. I think that is another sign the mileage shown is real.

I'm going to change the transmission fluid as well, but I'm not sure what you should put in an overdrive. A search brings up a link to a page from a Borg Warner manual that says straight mineral oil, between 40 and 50 weight, or transmission oil of 80 or 90 weight, depending on driving conditions.

That was written many years ago and "straight 40 weight mineral oil" might not have the same meaning today.

Would this include any non multi grade engine oil, like 40 wt, not 15-40, for example? Old fashioned 90 weight gear oil? Detergent or non detergent motor oil? The only thing real clear is not to use a hypoid gear oil.

I have a couple ODs and it would probably be in my best interest to find out what it really should have in it.

We run gear oil in all of ours. Same stuff we put in the trans and rear end.

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