Peel & Seal - poor man's dynamat

[Dan Babb]

Thought I'd pass along a low-buck upgrade.

I read good things over at the HAMB about guys using a product called Peal & Seal as a replacement for Dynamat. You can get it at Lowes in the roofing section. The one I bought was around $16 and was a roll that's 6" wide and 25' long. One roll was enough to cover the floor of the cab from the seat to the base of the firewall on my 52.

I took a couple strips (about 2' long each) and put them vertically inside the door. The door now sounds a whole lot more solid when you close it...doesn't have the 'hollow can' sound.

I don't have the truck on the road yet...but expect it to help with heat transfer coming from the floor and it should help quiet it down too.

I will do the firewall someday when I wind up getting one of those quiet ride firewall trim covers.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I have seen this stuff on TV for its actual purpose..ougth to work well especailly inside the doors as you said..maybe even the roof panel

[Dan Babb]

I thought I read at the HAMB that it's not really good for a roof....it's pretty heavy and the glue might not be good enough to hold it upside down (especially on a day where the sun is really beating down on it).

You may be better off using a lighter insulation and a heavy-duty spray adhesive.

But then you need to have a headliner too...and I don't really like the look of the kits that are out there.

[Don Coatney]

Any unplesent smell when using this stuff? Another forum member tried using roofing stuff several years ago and the smell was so bad he had to remove it.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Don..I use the Henry brand of asphalt roof patch..do not put it on thick..and build coats if needed..after a couple days I have foung there is no odor..yes you will smell it till it skins over...but again, think thin coats and the stuff texture/looks is just like what was in my 54 Plymouth floor..matter of fact, I sealed a couple floor seams in the 48 last evening with the stuff..for the most part you can use a 1 inch brush with the bristle cut to a reasonable stiffness and apply without problems..

[Dan Babb]

No smell at all while I was installing it. I've heard it doesn't smell after it's installed, but we'll see how it does this summer.

[tom'sB2B]

I used a similar product called "Useal". A peal and seal with aluminum backing. I just finished doing the fire wall, floor, back wall and ceiling. Works good, easy to cut with scissors...$16 (6"X24') I may go back with a blow dryer and roller and hit some spots. I'm also going to put bubblewrap insulation on the fire wall, roof and back.

[MBF]

I used Eastwood's brand of Dynamat for the firewall and roof, but I took GB's advice and used a double foil backed rolled plastic insulation that I got at Lowes for the back of the cab and around the rear window. I attached it using an industrial adhesive. Easy to work with, and worked well. What a difference that made in the cab decibel level. I don't drive this much in the winter, but I took it out last week, and could hear my heater blower running, and actually felt some heat! Mike

[sam knopik]

Dan- Do you have any pictures of where you placed those strips on the door?

[Dan Babb]

No pics. I cut 2 pieces and put them in vertically. Spaced them apart about 10-12". Each piece is as long as i could make it and still reach up into the space to install them.

[slicknapier]

Just to add some info into this. I put some of the peal and seal from Lowes under the hood of my 81 Dodge Crewcab. This is kind of my test mule for the heat resistance. My truck has a Cummins in it, so I was worried about the heat above the turbo. Add that to the heat of the Arizona sun. So far it's holding up good. I did notice the other day that a drop of the glue/tar on the back had dripped onto my radiator hose. I will keep an eye on it. Besides that it has held up good and not peeled off...