mounting the cab

[ggdad1951]

seeing as in a few weeks I'll have my cab back at home, a few questions come to mind:

1. I have several of the dimpled spacers, when/where do you know to use them?

2. NO ONE I've talked to offers the "hard" rubber drivers side bushing as a replacement (as stated in the shop repair manual), should I just reuse the original (in semi decent shape) or use a softer available one?

[Desotodav]

Email sent to you Mark.

Desotodav

[Jim Shepard]

Not sure this is responsive to your question, but here is a photo of how the various pieces of the mounting puzzle go together. I don't know of a source for new rubber. You will note the driver-side front mount is different than the other three, which are all the same. Why? I don't know...

Hope this helps.

[Dave72dt]

My theory is the extra dimpled washers are used to compensate for the variances in the cab floors and cab mounts when assembled. From your furniture building you know any four legged piece must have exactly the same length legs or you get some wobble in it. The washers are used as spacers to get the wobble out. The dimples allow for stacking while keeping a center alignment. JMO!

[MBF]

I also believe that mount is different to keep the cab located so that side to side or front to back movement doesn't overstress the steering column or pedal alignment in the floor. Just a guess. Mike

[Young Ed]

I also believe that mount is different to keep the cab located so that side to side or front to back movement doesn't overstress the steering column or pedal alignment in the floor. Just a guess. Mike

Thats what I believe too. The 39-47 trucks have 3 spring mounts for cab bolts and the left front is solid bolted. To further support this theory the solid mount bolt moves to the right front on right hand drive trucks.

[ggdad1951]

Not sure this is responsive to your question, but here is a photo of how the various pieces of the mounting puzzle go together. I don't know of a source for new rubber. You will note the driver-side front mount is different than the other three, which are all the same. Why? I don't know...

Hope this helps.

yah, I have the assembly order down from the shop manual, just wonder about reusing the old "harder" one for the unique drivers front.

My theory is the extra dimpled washers are used to compensate for the variances in the cab floors and cab mounts when assembled. From your furniture building you know any four legged piece must have exactly the same length legs or you get some wobble in it. The washers are used as spacers to get the wobble out. The dimples allow for stacking while keeping a center alignment. JMO!

yep, but what do I "level" it to? I took 3 of my truck (didn't note them of course) so after the drivers front, which order do I go in to "level" the wobble?

[Dave72dt]

Start with the frame. Level it side to side. All four mounts go on, then the cab. It'll rock diagonally. Put the spacer under the corner that takes the wobble out and the leaves the cab the most level side to side. There's a lip at the top of the firewall that makes a good place to put a level. Follow up with a visual check from a distance so it doens't look lopsided.

Edited November 30, 2011 by Dave72dt

[HanksB3B]

but...I'm happy to do it if it helps..

Happy Cab Leveling,

Hank

P.S. Until your front clip is mounted to the radiator support bracket and the fenders are mounted to the fender support bracket and your cab is sitting on the spacers...At this point is when you "tie them all together" and see that the line between front edge of the doors and the rear edge of the fenders aligns in a parallel manner. What I'm saying is the cab mount and front clip all work together..You'll see what I mean Mark.

[ggdad1951]

but...I'm happy to do it if it helps..

Happy Cab Leveling,

Hank

P.S. Until your front clip is mounted to the radiator support bracket and the fenders are mounted to the fender support bracket and your cab is sitting on the spacers...At this point is when you "tie them all together" and see that the line between front edge of the doors and the rear edge of the fenders aligns in a parallel manner. What I'm saying is the cab mount and front clip all work together..You'll see what I mean Mark.

I've got that page in my shop manual. I know the proper order, just don't know WHERE to put the spacers.

So I shouldn't worry about spacers untill I have the front clip/fenders on as well? Or do you level the cab and base everything off that?

[HanksB3B]

Level the cab paying close attention to the configuration of the stacked washers and the different rubber on the front drivers side mount, but don't think you're done, that is, until you start to mate the front fenders to the cab another indicator believe it or not is the way the foot starter lever interfaces with the starter arm lever. What I'm saying is that there is some "fine-tuning" involved. In my case I even found it necessary to use some body-shims (a U-Shaped Washer with one open end) between the frame and the radiator support to adjust the height of the radiator from which is hung your front clip. Just relax and expect this part of the assembly to take a few hours over a few days until you see how everythin fits. Most likely this is due to sagging floor boards which is due to the amount of metal fatigue which is partly due to rust and if the previous driver of your truck ate a lot of donuts. A good indicator of this is if your truck sags a bit on the driver side. You are doing a beautiful job on your truck and I have faith in you.

Hank

Do you have all the weather strip? I used fender welt and pop-rivets on the back edge of the fenders and a Ford part (from I can't remember where) at the top of the fenders where it meet the cowl.

[Young Ed]

If floor sag is the cause of issues I don't think Mark will have any. His truck has one of the nicest cabs I've ever seen.