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Posted

I went through and cleaned up my big ol train horn looking horns. How abouts do these horns get wired? Does it have to be 6 volts also? I tried with 12 volts on one horn, positive to the screw stud and just grounded the horn body. I got nothing but a little movement but no sound, the little board inside with the wire spooled around it is getting pretty warm though.

Am I doing something wrong? Does anyone know of a write up on rebuilding/ repairing these horns?

Thanks guys.

Posted

There is wire, that exits the steering colume neat the box. it connects witha bakelite butt connector to a wire that goes to the relay. It provides the ground when you press the horn button or ring.

the primary side of the solenoid gets powered from the bat side of the solenoid (typically) and the secondary (the switch circuit) gets powered typically from the ignition side of the coil, or from the accesory terminal of the ign switch. This assures the horn only operates with ign on.

if you want to test the horns, disconect the relay wires. You can power them with 12v like a jumper pack, ad many folks run them on 12V as they are only short teerm occasional use the 12 doesn't hurt them.

The first thing to look at if they don't test honk, is the points under the domed cover, they might need some cleaning and dressing with apoints file. But be gentle, as you can knock them out of adjustment, by horsing on them. As the points close the enegize an electmagnetic motor the poves the diaphragm up and down rapidly producing the normally very loud horns.

Posted
  greg g said:
There is wire, that exits the steering colume neat the box. it connects witha bakelite butt connector to a wire that goes to the relay. It provides the ground when you press the horn button or ring.

the primary side of the solenoid gets powered from the bat side of the solenoid (typically) and the secondary (the switch circuit) gets powered typically from the ignition side of the coil, or from the accesory terminal of the ign switch. This assures the horn only operates with ign on.

if you want to test the horns, disconect the relay wires. You can power them with 12v like a jumper pack, ad many folks run them on 12V as they are only short teerm occasional use the 12 doesn't hurt them.

The first thing to look at if they don't test honk, is the points under the domed cover, they might need some cleaning and dressing with apoints file. But be gentle, as you can knock them out of adjustment, by horsing on them. As the points close the enegize an electmagnetic motor the poves the diaphragm up and down rapidly producing the normally very loud horns.

Interesting..... So should there be a gap on the points if it is just sitting, no power I mean? Is there an adjust ment to this? Or is just a sound adjustment?

Posted (edited)

Dunes Person,

Just to muddle things a bit, the horns can be tuned and actually made to be somewhat melodic. The adjustment is explained on page 114 of the service manual (you do, of course, possess a service manual, do you not?) and some day when you want to set your car apart from the parakeet poots found in the "modern" cars of today give it a shot. If you are at all musically inclined or have a friend who is it can be a fun exercise in a seemingly futile endeavor. Beware: These horns have gone through puberty and are beyond the age of consent.

-Randy

Edited by randroid
Posted
  JerseyHarold said:
How can I get this car out of second gear?

wind up first...clutch slam and dump..you be there...

I actually drove one of Louman's old Plymouths this morning...of course it is not his anymore and it is about 10 minutes from its new home as I just checked...I will say no more...

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