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Posted

I had my truck parked for 2 years and brought it out this spring. I have a nasty oil leak where the engine meets the cover for the ring gear. I tighted the pan bolts which were 1/4 a turn loose but still drips. Any body have an idea what the problem is. I told my wife its time to put a big hemi in but she is not falling for it.

Thanks for any input.

Posted

Does it only leak after having been run? Rear engine seal, pan gasket, trans fluid unless there's something else behind the belhousing that can leak.

Posted

It is engine oil. It seems to drip along time after the engine is off. On saturday I drained my oil and pulled out the cartridge oil filter, left it drain since and it still dripped this morning. This morning I replaced the oil and filter, started it for a few minutes, checked the oil level and left it sit. There is a 3 inch circle of oil under my truck since 10 AM. Do gaskets dry out sitting?

Posted

Rope type rear main seals -if you have one can get dried up and stick to the crank journal where it rides on the crank and get torn up upon start up after long term storage, especially in humid damp conditions.

Bob

Posted

the oil in rope or leather seals eventually wicks out if not replenished within a certain amount of time, probably within a season change. Once they are dry, the sealing surface can be torn apart, removing enough material to cause seal failure. In some cases, the seal can become hard and wear a groove in the machined surface that it is supposed to be sealing against, amplifying the problem.

Posted
Rope type rear main seals -if you have one can get dried up and stick to the crank journal where it rides on the crank and get torn up upon start up after long term storage, especially in humid damp conditions.

Bob

the oil in rope or leather seals eventually wicks out if not replenished within a certain amount of time, probably within a season change. Once they are dry, the sealing surface can be torn apart, removing enough material to cause seal failure. In some cases, the seal can become hard and wear a groove in the machined surface that it is supposed to be sealing against, amplifying the problem.

I agree with both of these postings. You may be looking at a tear down to replace the seal in order to stop the leak.

However before you do so look the math. A quart of oil costs (for the purpose of this thread) two bucks. With a hunk of cardboard the drip clean up costs very little. Disassembling the engine to replace the seal costs a lot of time in addition to the cost of the seal, labor, and the cost of any machine work or a speedy sleeve to fix the worn surface. This work could cost several hundred bucks. A quart of oil costs (for the purpose of this thread) two bucks. How many months, years, days, will it take to replace the quart of oil that leaks? I think you will get my point.

Posted

I can see in the future, to be Eco friendly we will be required to fix all vehicle oil leakage at any costs!

Oil leaks can prevent rust on our old car under carriages. That alone is a good thing in the moisture states!.

Posted
I can see in the future, to be Eco friendly we will be required to fix all vehicle oil leakage at any costs!

When that day comes, And it probably will come, This hobby will cease to exhist. Fact is all old cars do leak oil and the fix has not yet been invented.

Posted

Thanks for the help, I think i will agree with Don and do simple math, plus I like Dodgeb4ya's idea to help anti-rust my chassis for now. I have stuck over $1500 in already this spring with just the interior, changed all fluids, and a few minor things I was always going to do. I was'nt sure if it was the pan gasket or something more serious. I am looking for a reason for more power. And this a great start.

Thanks again everyone.

Todd B

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