40 Plymouth won't start

[skiviskaves]

Hey, greg g posted about my starting problems a few days ago. I usually hang out on the hamb but also lurk around this forum for the great info here.

I've been try to get my 40 Plymouth started after about 25 years in hibernation. Here's what I've done so far during the troubleshooting: started by dumping some marvel mystery oil in each cylinder and letting it sit for a few days...the motor turns nice. Installed rebuilt starter, new battery, new plugs and wires, for trouble shooting purposes I doubled the hot wire from the batt to make sure there was enough juice getting there, added extra ground wire from cylinder head to frame, new wire connections to the coil, cleaned points, did a slight timing adjustment based on instructions from a "Motor's auto repair manual" from 1955. I have spark but per a check with a tester last night it is not strong. She turns and turns but notta pop to be heard. I am thinking the next step will be new condenser/capacitor, maybe new points. Are these shelf items at Napa or local farm store? Any other ideas?

My thread on the hamb can be read here and it will detail my trials thus far: http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=580720&showall=1

I'm also looking for a new fan belt...anyone know where one can be found?

Thanks!!!!

Bill

[Merle Coggins]

Napa is a good source for the parts you need. Just be sure to have the distributor number.

How does it turn over? Does it sound like an engine with good compression? Have you checked the compression? It's possible that you have some stuck valves and no compression in some cylinders. This can make for a very hard starting engine.

Merle

[skiviskaves]

Napa is a good source for the parts you need. Just be sure to have the distributor number.

How does it turn over? Does it sound like an engine with good compression? Have you checked the compression? It's possible that you have some stuck valves and no compression in some cylinders. This can make for a very hard starting engine.

Merle

Thanks Merle. I haven't check compression yet...probably should have done that a long time ago. I'm grabbing a compression tester from my buddy at work today. To me it sounds pretty good turning over, aside from it turning pretty slow. It feels like strong compression with my thumb over the #1 hole but I haven't done that on all cylinders. It builds good oil pressure according to the gauge.

[suntennis]

You may want to remove the top of the carb to verify that there is fuel. Sitting so long, the accelerator pump has dried out, so when depresing the gas pedal there will not be a spray of gas into the throat of the carb. To ensure gas to the engine, you can set up a gravity feed plastic container of gas and attach it to the carb. In addition, the local auto parts store can provide a spray can of starting fluid. If some starting fluid is sprayed into the carb and you have gas to the carb, you should get some sort of reponse from the engine when starting.

[skiviskaves]

You may want to remove the top of the carb to verify that there is fuel. Sitting so long, the accelerator pump has dried out, so when depresing the gas pedal there will not be a spray of gas into the throat of the carb. To ensure gas to the engine, you can set up a gravity feed plastic container of gas and attach it to the carb. In addition, the local auto parts store can provide a spray can of starting fluid. If some starting fluid is sprayed into the carb and you have gas to the carb, you should get some sort of reponse from the engine when starting.

Yup, I've got a gravity feed setup to the carb right now. Also, before each start attempt I have been dumpin a little gas straight into the carb, starting fluid too...notta pop.

[Don Coatney]

I personally do not recommend starting fluid. It should not be rerquired. Three things required to run. Compresion, fuel, and spark delivered at the right time.

You said the starter motor spins slow. what is the size of the battery cables? I am assuming you are still on 6 volts. If so the cable size needs to be much larger than the 12 volt cables normally sold today. Do a forum search for recommended cable size.

[greg g]

If it has been sitting a long time, chances are you have a couple of valves sticking open so you may not get any start if you have 2 or 3 dead cylinders. I got mine going bpulling it down the road to get it goig, but even with the heat of running, I had to pull the head and free up the valves.

It's pretty common lots of folks have reported stuck valves, the compression test will show if you have dead cylinders. Be aware that long threaded testers can damage valves if screwed in to far.

[Don Coatney]

This might or might not help.

[Tom Skinner]

Skiviskaves,

Did you "Static" Time it? That would get the stongest spark at the right instance. As follows:

Engine not Running. With the Piston of the no. 1 cylinder on Top Dead Center (Timing Marks Aligned) the points should be just opening. Loosen the Distributor Clamp and turn the housing in the direction of the rotation (clockwise) of the Rotor until the Points are closed. Turn on the Ignition switch and hold the end of the High Tension Wire from the Coil about 1/4 inch from a ground. Turn the Distributor in the opposite direction (counterclockwise) until a spark jumps the gap from the high tension wire to the ground. Tighten the Distributor Clamp and turn the Ignition Off. This should position your "Timing" to start the car, afterwards tweek the timing with a Timing Light (once engine is running) to achieve a "Dynamic Timing":cool:

Tom