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Posted

So far, when ever I have hoisted an engine, I have used two head bolts on the opposite corners of the engine. Now that I have the new engine together I was hoping to use some other points to lift the engine so I don't mess up the pretty new paint job. Any ideas?Jan2007_3162.jpg

Posted

I went with option #2, mess up nice new engine paint. You could place large fender washers under the headbolts you will lift with. That might give you a little less damage to the paint. Also leave the fuel pump off until the motor is in. It's in an awkward area when you're maneuvering the motor around.

Jim, I hung the motor on more links of chain. It seemed to make the load leveler work better.

post-64-13585345338016_thumb.jpg

Posted

Don,

What you really need for a class act is one of those $39 Harbor Freight engine slings with a crank that will optimize engine load so you can get the angle of the dangle just right when you slide the unit into the frame. Once you've used one of these you'll never again use that Neanderthal chain-in-the-hook method. JMHO

Posted
Don,

What you really need for a class act is one of those $39 Harbor Freight engine slings with a crank that will optimize engine load so you can get the angle of the dangle just right when you slide the unit into the frame. Once you've used one of these you'll never again use that Neanderthal chain-in-the-hook method. JMHO

Dave;

That would take all the excitment away. It is much more fun to bounce the engine a bit to jump the chain a notch in the hook.:eek:

Posted

Neaderthal works (worked?) ........ up to a point. I too like the added dimension of the chain jumping a little and the involuntary rotation of the engine. Makes me pay more attention to where my fingers are.

Posted

Dave, I am impressed that you still have the radiator shell in place in that photo. How the heck did you get the radiator out?

On my car the only way I have been able to get the radiator out was to remove the hood and the radiator shell. That is a non-trivial job to do alone without messing up the paint. Actually just getting the hood on or off without messing up the paint is the non-trivial part. The radiator shell is pretty easy after that.

Posted

Back when I was working on those old Volkswagens, I'd put a pile of newspapers under the engine, remove the linkage and 4 bolts to the transmission, pull back and the whole engine just dropped onto the newspapers. Then you would lift the back end of the car and push it forward. Good to go!

You could do it all by yourself or you could get some friends and it would look like this...

VW.jpg

Posted

Talk about Neanderthal . . .

Years ago whilst a service manager at a NJ Ford dealership, had a tech who got from me an R. O. to replace a flex plate on a Ford 390 engine with a C-6 automatic. One hour later he turned the R. O. in and asked for another job.

Being the Jerk I usually am, I called his bluff and said, "No way, man."

He proceeded to take me to his tool box, show me the long studs he used to walk the tranny backwards after he dropped the prop shaft, and then got out the old, long Craftsman box wrench he had motified with a blue-nose to fit onto the flywheel bolts. Told me how he always indexed the convertor drain at six o'clock so the offset flywheel bolts would go back in the new flex plate without hunting around.

Bottom line was, the guy did a five hour time schedule job in less than fifty minutes. Man, that crow was SALTY . . . . . . Soooo, guess who was the Neanderthal that day?:)

And here I thought we were supposed to live and learn . . . . . . and I'm still dummin' down . . . . . .

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