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Posted

I personally prefer to use Permatex Aviation on gaskets and a dab of the non hardening in corners. I stay as far away from RTV as I can.

Posted

I did not follow the instructions in the picture below. If you follow the instructions you will not be able to do what I did. I used gasket sealent on one side only for the pan side gaskets. I used grease on the other side and grease only on the end pieces. By doing this I have been able to remove my oil pan twice without having to replace the gaskets. If you follow the instructions you will not be able to remove the pan without buying another gasket. Pictured are the end pieces that should not be trimmed.

The rubber pieces may be for the rear main seal.

Pangasket1.jpg

Rearmainbearingseal.jpg

Posted

Robert, I recently installed my sump (with new gasket) after trying to fix a couple of leaks. My truck manual suggests to leave the end gaskets protrude 1/8 to 1/4 inch above the oil pan to allow for compression when the pan screws are tightened.

Your small rubber pieces about half inch long and the size of a pencil lead baffle me. The part that they call 'oil pan front seal plate' (part # 1113161?) has a couple of small rubber seals inserted at the top which sound similar. It is mounted inside the sump to the front of the motor under the crankshaft. The front seal forms against this part. Maybe your small rubber pencil lead-like seals were made for this?

I hope this info has been helpful.

Desotodav

post-7583-13585360407211_thumb.jpg

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