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Rusty Hope Exhaust Manifold (Genius)


gillettealvin

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I recently sent my ’33 Plymouth exhaust manifold down to FL to Charlie at Rusty Hope to have some surgery performed. Here is what I sent.

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Charlie emailed me about a crack, which is quite obvious in the picture, but I’d missed it. Rats! Then he offered to substitute a matching manifold from his stash and use the outlet from mine instead of the other way around. The extra charge was more than fair to me.

A couple weeks later, the manifold returned. Meanwhile I’d blasted the intake, and here are the pair. I also had the exhaust blasted, but didn’t get a picture of it.

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I got some of that new POR-15 Black Velvet manifold paint from Vintage Power Wagons. It is rated at 1400 degrees and goes on with a brush, dries nice and smooth. Here is the complete set assembled on the fresh motor.

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I’m very happy with Charlie’s work and his prices are excellent. ‘Course, the thought of duals on my coupe gives an extra shot of energy to “git-er-dun,” and get on the road!

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Hey, Greg,

Yes, I am going to run a stock carburetor. I like the looks of a two carb manifold, but I really think they belong more on an "all out" set up and should only be "allowed" to be used with a finned H/C head. :D This PC stamped '33 block is running 3 1/4" pistons, (I think it is the stock 3 1/8" bored out .125, because the stock PC 189" motor was a 3 1/8" bore and this one took standard 3 1/4" rings on the existing pistons after a clean up hone.) The rebuilder said it has a 201" crank and rods, so I'm guessing it is probably a 218" motor at this point in its life. The only mods are .010 off the block and .060 off the head, very slight clean up on the ports, a mild cam, dynamic balance, and the dual exhaust. I'll run the stock points distributor.

GA

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Should be good with one. Doesn't look like it will be too long before its running down the road. Do you also have a thread on the HAMB? That's great looking coupe.

Suppose you could get one of those adapters and run a 2bbl if you find you want more umph down the line.

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Thanks, guys, for all the positive feedback!

While I love all flathead Plymouths, sometimes I’ve hesitated posting here as this car is a generation (plus) from your P-15’s, i.e. the grandmother of your late forties cars. No one here has ever said anything but encouraging words, I just don’t want me or the ’33 to wear out our welcome!

Here are the links to the H.A.M.B. threads about the car, in case you’re interested. Thanks again for the helpful comments! GA

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=548773

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=547699

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6217765#post6217765

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Great looking car!

I wouldn't feel to worried about posting here. My 53 Chrysler is newer than most here and I have never felt unwelcome. As long as you still have that old flat six and don't do something boring, like drop a 350 in it, I'm sure both you and your car will be welcome.

Later,

Carl

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Nice job on the manifold...have attached a pic of what I eventually intend to run on my 1941 Plymouth, there are 3 types of exhaust manifolds for the 23" engine as far as I know.....front, back and rear dump............due to the RHD steering gear my car uses the back dump outlet as the stock setup, I got hold of a front & spare back dump manifold and cut the front & back sections of each and had a local blacksmith weld them up............there will be just enough clearance on the front pipe over the steering box.........and if I need to heat the intake manifold I'll make up a flat plate with a in/out tube from the water pump......andyd

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I'm really glad the manifold worked out. I try not to envy or lust, but that 33 has me doing both! I love that car!! I enjoy doing the manifolds, but unless I get some broken ones for the dumps Gil's may be the last one. I like using the original parts because the cast iron is the same and I think it looks more original, dare I say correct? In any case if anybody has, knows of, or has seen any broken manifolds, of either type I need parts or this hotrod project comes to an end.

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to everyone doing this manifold trip.... notice that the front dump is DIRECTLY in front of the #3 cyl. outlet.....not so good for flow...if possible attach the newly welded front 'dump' at a slight angle to be out of such a direct shot from cyl #2&3. however it is just my logic...an expert may have better info. when i did my first one i made that mistake...the second one i angled it and midway a bit.....who really knows.??

bill ..........

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Edited by claybill
xxxooo
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In many the rised plate is welded in the vertical position to fuction as the seperating baffle. Some I have seen remove the heat riser section altogether and create two seperate sections, like the one shown above. Some leave it place but fastenned in the hoizontal position. and since the exhaust gas is goig to follow the path of least resistance, in the long run it probaly make little difference which method is utilized.

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I bought the complete heat riser kit from Bernbaum before I'd "talked" to Charlie at Rusty Hope. When I got ready to send the manifold, he told me that he usually just brazes up the holes and skips it. This because I live in NC, and my plans don't include any driving in Northern Maine or Minnesota during the winter months. I decided to defer to someone who's had more direct experience than myself, and left off the heat riser assembly.

BTW, the kit is for sale/trade, (cheap:D) in case anyone can use it? I only used the square gasket, and may even have another of those left from my engine gasket set left overs. PM if interested. GA

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I have been doing this for forty years now and grew up watching my Dad do it for another fifteen or so years. I don't know about flow etc etc, but I know that by adding a second dump you double the exit volume and the expanding gas doesn't particularly care how it gets out, it just gets out faster. The one dump being all the way at the back made putting one up about half way seem pretty sensible to my Dad and his fellow circle track racers. I have actually removed the rear dump, closed the hole and put the dump up front, on top of the manifold on a Snow Kat tractor. It appeared to flow up ok. As far as heat risers, I don't see the need for one outside of very cold climates. Having said that I do whatever the owner wants. I can leave them in, take them out, block off the two halves, cut the manifold in two and make truly split duals,all the same to me. My preferred methods is what I did for Gil, remove heat riser, plug holes, and leave the entire manifold open as one large chamber exiting into two dumps. This is what the guys who raced against my Dad did over 40 years ago, worked then, works now. I used to love seeing a Mopar flathead six outrun flathead V8s, and OHV 6 and 8 engines, simply amazing.

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My preferred methods is what I did for Gil, remove heat riser, plug holes, and leave the entire manifold open as one large chamber exiting into two dumps. This is what the guys who raced against my Dad did over 40 years ago, worked then, works now.

40 (or more like 60) years ago guys who raced were looking for what puts them in the winners circle. I only know one guy who still wants the biggest gain in ponies for his pulling tractor. Most others myself included want the best sound. What makes the best sound? I feel that I have a true split in my manifold with the heat riser plate welded closed. Of course I have 40,000 miles on my engine and the hot exhaust gas may have burned through the heat riser plate by now. What do you think makes the best sound?

On my return trip home this past weekend I stopped for gas and some dude approached me and seeing my dual exhaust thought I had a SBC in my car. I told him no it is a flathead 6. He then told me that he had a 48 Plymouth with dual exhaust and that he always thought the sound of a true split V-6 over a V-8 always sounded better. I let him keep right on thinking:D

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