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Posted

Good point about marking the pulley. I hooked up the vacuum gauge and got the timing a little bit more advanced.. I was getting a 18 now. The car idles great. I am getting a local guy to rebuild the carb though. Thanks for all the help.

Posted

flattie.....2 things i recommend..regardless of current needs and problems.

1...go to NAPA and get a rebuild kit for $17

2...go to a swap meet or even ebay and look for a beater carb ....for10-15 bucks..use it as a guinea pig to learn on..these old carbs are simple!

i would not change jetting as formerly recommended. for 20 years aLL THE PLYMOUTHS used same or similar variation OF THAT CARB, all using the same jetting...there is another reason..search for it. after the rebuild it might clear up (float level?)

bill

Posted

It's easy. My kit came with instructions. Don C. mentioned in an earlier thread using a magnetic sheet to keep small parts on. You might want to try that here. I think some pieces of the kit are brass and this may or may not work, but in any case, make sure you don't lose anything. Put everything in a bag or a small box or something. Also, I wouldn't take it all apart at once. You might want to replace piece by piece so you don't lose track of what goes where.

Posted

The manual in the link is for a complete remanufacture and contains steps not supported by a basic rebuild kit. So usually it is not necessary to remove the aluminum plugs or the jets, as they are not usually icluded in a basic kit. You are looking at fresh gaskets, the acc pump check balls (different sized so note their posttion) the Accpump soak the leather part in light oil before installing. the rest is just cleaning and blowing out the passages. Also check the float by shaking it after the ivot pin is removed. If you hear any sloshing inside, it might leak.

Posted

Two pieces you will lose if you so much as look sideways at them:

The pivot pin for the float and the retainer pin that holds the pivot pin in place.

The manual also says never to run wire or anything similar through the passageways. Use compressed air.

Posted

While carefully taking the carb apart and taking reference pics, I noticed something as I was removing the needle and float. The BB that was below the float fell out. Luckily I caught it, but my question is, is the BB supposed to be loose enough to fall out of the hole?

Posted

If all you removed was the needle and seat and the float your BB wasnt in the correct spot. The big one goes under a clip under the accelerator pump and the little one goes under the stepup assembly.

Posted

A word on safety. Always wear eye protection when blowing out the passages with carb cleaner or compressed air. It won't always come out where you expect it to. That stuff in your eyes will ruin you day..............Tim

Posted (edited)

I usually don't unless the ball looks way bad. Put some of your solvent in there and let it soak. If you feel you need to change the ball, the clip will pry out with a tool with a hook on it. Then once it is free it will scurry silently to the deepest darkest part of you shop garage.

Edited by greg g

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