Phil Martin Posted February 28, 2011 Report Posted February 28, 2011 You need a carbide drill bit to drill out broken ez outs. Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted February 28, 2011 Report Posted February 28, 2011 That welding trick Shel posted looks like the best way to get it out in my opinion. That's one of the coolest things I've seen in a while. Quote
bamfordsgarage Posted February 28, 2011 Report Posted February 28, 2011 ...Lastly, getting real tempted to just buy a mig and weld the old ball on there...always wanted a welder...What about just JB Welding the old ball stud onto the old stud? Will that make a pretty good hold for a pivot point? I suspect JB Weld would last about 10 seconds in that application. Maybe you should buy a welder... once you've got one you'll never regret it. Sure it costs, but you're spending it on tools and what can really be wrong with that? Any way you go about this now you'll be spending money — maybe at a machine shop, or the Heli-coil store, or the diamond bit store, or for someone to weld the ball on for you... all single-purpose expenses. Spend a little more and get equipment you will use for all sorts of things for years and years. Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted February 28, 2011 Report Posted February 28, 2011 Have you got a friend with a welder? Quote
rustyzman Posted February 28, 2011 Report Posted February 28, 2011 I find diamond coatings are not very good for normal steel. They are great for cement, carbide and other really hard materials. Check out some carbide burrs. They are very handy and will hold up better than an end mill in a drill. JB weld will not hold up for a pivot. You could always weld a new pivot to a plate and then drill new holes to mount the plate to the frame. Or just slowly burr out the bolt and repair the hole as needed. Just a thought. Buying an oxy/acetylene rig is one of the best things you can do if you plan to work on cars or restore them. Caution must always be exercised while using them as things can ignite and go bad fast, but they are incredibly useful. We call them the Blue Wrench for a reason, they help you take out things that would not come out any other way. Plus, you can learn to gas weld and braze with them, very useful in putting all that broken stuff back together again. Quote
Coffin04 Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Posted February 28, 2011 (edited) Rusty, is there a preferred shape for the bur for this application? Cylinder, pencil, ball, flame, etc... As much as i want to get a welder, my pockets aren't that deep with only a rocker and a chevron on my chest. E-3 pay ain't the greatest. was hoping to find a cheaper solution for this... But if you know of a welder for a good price and can work off a standard 120v socket. that would be great. Have you got a friend with a welder? My room's dad has a few of them supposedly, but either the welder would have to come down here or i'd have to find a way to get my car to him since his dad is about an hour's drive away. I can see about it. I have an idea using an angle plate but we'll see. Edited February 28, 2011 by Coffin04 Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted February 28, 2011 Report Posted February 28, 2011 A MIG will run off 120v. That's what I've got. They're small and portable, too. It would just take a second to weld a washer and nut on to the broken bolt. Wish I was there. Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 28, 2011 Report Posted February 28, 2011 E-3 pay ain't the greatest. Where are you located? If on a military base there should be a welding shop somewhere on that base. Possibly even a portable welder that you can borrow. Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted February 28, 2011 Report Posted February 28, 2011 I was thinking the same thing. Got to be one handy somewhere. Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted February 28, 2011 Report Posted February 28, 2011 Got a question? Is this for the overtravel spring retention fastner? I would think that you could just move the bolt hole over and just forget about the broke stud. Drill and tap a new treaded hole. Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted February 28, 2011 Report Posted February 28, 2011 What does this stud support??? Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 28, 2011 Report Posted February 28, 2011 What does this stud support??? I think his wife and children:D Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted March 1, 2011 Report Posted March 1, 2011 OK now I get the idea of what your doing. And Don is write about the stud supporting the wife and kids. But around here Don I'm know for something else and that is my nick name the Croation Stud!!!! Quote
b314mech Posted March 1, 2011 Report Posted March 1, 2011 Here is my simple solution that I would try on my car. I don't have a welder handy like you. I would spray the stud with a good penatrating oil and rap the stud with a hammer a few times and let soak. Do you have a high speed with a cut off wheel? If you dont your cordless drill will work, just slower. If you still have some of the stud sticking out above the frame. Use the cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the "head" of the stud to create a sloted bolt (the cut off wheel will cut the extractors no problem) and remove the stud with a common screw driver, try to cut accross the middle and cut as deep as you can (with out cutting the frame) to get a good bite with the screw driver. Good luck. Quote
Coffin04 Posted March 1, 2011 Author Report Posted March 1, 2011 Unfortunately the stud is broken about an 1/8" in not out. And my vehicle is on military post but it's a rather unique one. It's strictly a training school and not a full on base. if i was on a base i would have brought the car to the shop faster than hell gets lawyers. i may be going with the bur for now. if i can just get a hole in there i should be good.if the bur fails then i'm stuck... Quote
rustyzman Posted March 1, 2011 Report Posted March 1, 2011 Coffin, sent you a PM. Check your messages if you get a chance. Quote
PatS.... Posted March 1, 2011 Report Posted March 1, 2011 As has been said...time to walk away from the stud. Get a hunk of 1/4 inch steel, 2X4 inches and drill a hole in the center and thread it for the ball stud. Drill a 1/2 inch hole in either end of the plate. Center the plate over the existing broken stud. Mark the frame for those 2 1/2 inch holes and drill the frame. Bolt the plate in place with the ball stud threaded in place. That gets the ball stud close to the stock placement. If and when you ever pull the engine and get room to work you can work on the broken stud. This will get you up and running without the welder. Drilling the frame might not be fun but it could be worse. My Toonies worth. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 1, 2011 Report Posted March 1, 2011 Don's idea on the base's auto hobby shop is excellent if your vehicle is where you are stationed, usually they have tons of good equipment and tools and am sure however you will need to attend a welders safety course prior to being turned loose on a welder..however a quick stop by and chat with the operator may be beneficial as most of these guys are seasoned DIYers and can be a great help in this situation..odds one could get you in and out quickly..I still make use of the auto hobby shop here on base for turning drums, rotors and such.. Quote
Coffin04 Posted March 7, 2011 Author Report Posted March 7, 2011 Alright, a bur and some end mills were sent to me. the stud chewed the end mils to pieces. The bur worked amazingly well the only problem is after hitting this busted end with grinders, burs, and bits. I think i removed most of the material that was actually bolt in the attempt to remove the extractors... how about that. in the end it was all one concaved shinny blob. So i gave up after developing major wrist and arm pain. The busted bolt is now welded in place. It's ugly but it works. On top of that i replaced my rear suspension. YAY.... now to replace the front suspension, get the brakes adjusted and relined, work on the cooling, fiddle with the carb some more to get it properly tuned, check the fuel system in and out, and the list goes on and on as always. Quote
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