RobertKB Posted December 17, 2010 Report Posted December 17, 2010 (edited) I take no credit for this tip as I first saw it when reading an article in Hemming's Classic Car about an owner done restoration. First time I tried it was on the window winding system of my '63 Fairlane and it made a huge difference. I am now reassembling my '48 Dodge D25 Club coupe after a repaint. Doors were off the car and after adjusting them to fit nicely and before putting on the door panels, I greased all the moving parts with white grease. (Always take any opportunity you can to lubricate window mechanisms). My windows went up a little more smoothly but not as nicely as I would like so I used the tip I had read about and used successfully once before. The crank handle attaches to a round part (not sure of the name) which I believe has a coil spring in it to help with winding. Any lubrication in it dries out and the coils rub against each other and there is no way to lubricate this item. Here is the tip. Take a centre punch and make a little mark in the top. Drill with about a 1/8" bit very carefully so you just go through the outer case and not into the spring. You then have a small hole to drip oil into. I use the oil liberally as it likely won't be lubricated again for a long time. If you want, you can put some tape over the hole when finished to keep out any dirt although probably not necessary if your car spends 95+% of its life inside. This makes a big difference to how nicely the windows roll up and can be used on any car with this system. Attached picture shows the small hole in the top of the piece the crank attaches to. Well worth the effort and short amount of time required. Hope this helps some of you as much as it helped me. Edited December 18, 2010 by RobertKB Quote
james49ply Posted December 17, 2010 Report Posted December 17, 2010 Thank you for the tip, I will remember and will do the same to my car:) Quote
old stovebolt Posted December 17, 2010 Report Posted December 17, 2010 If you dip the drill bit in heavy grease and slowly drill the hole, most of the flashing material will stay on the drill bit and not drop inside. Quote
Kevinb71 Posted December 17, 2010 Report Posted December 17, 2010 Thanks for the tip. The about the grease on the bit as well. I alway learn something on this site. Quote
Young Ed Posted December 17, 2010 Report Posted December 17, 2010 Our machinist uses permatex #2. Dunks the drillbit in the tube. He said its the best for hard metal drilling too. Quote
RobertKB Posted December 17, 2010 Author Report Posted December 17, 2010 If you dip the drill bit in heavy grease and slowly drill the hole, most of the flashing material will stay on the drill bit and not drop inside. Thanks, I will add that to my tip collection for the next time! Quote
Don Coatney Posted December 17, 2010 Report Posted December 17, 2010 Very good tip! In the past I have done the same on several car heater blower motors that started squaling. Simply drill a small hole in the end of the motor centered in the dimple where the armature rides in a bushing and add oil or light grease. The squaling stops and the motor runs like new. Quote
cwcars88 Posted December 18, 2010 Report Posted December 18, 2010 All good tips, could you also use a needle point grease gun fitting and push grease into the housing. I would think it would last longer and not run out or dry out as quick. Just another thought. Wayne Quote
Frank Elder Posted December 18, 2010 Report Posted December 18, 2010 All good tips, could you also use a needle point grease gun fitting and push grease into the housing. I would think it would last longer and not run out or dry out as quick. Just another thought.Wayne Probably the same as a HI pressure fitting. Quote
Oldguy48 Posted December 18, 2010 Report Posted December 18, 2010 All good tips, could you also use a needle point grease gun fitting and push grease into the housing. I would think it would last longer and not run out or dry out as quick. Just another thought.Wayne I'm going to try this on my P15. I've got a can of Permatex chain lube, meant for roller chains. It seems to leave a thicker protective film after the solvent ingredient in it evaporates. Quote
norrism1 Posted December 19, 2010 Report Posted December 19, 2010 Even a light grease will eventually cake up and cause more problems. Cold weather will cause the grease to thicken up as well. Then you might break something trying to roll down the window. Just putting that out there for consideration. Quote
thrashingcows Posted December 19, 2010 Report Posted December 19, 2010 Great Tip!!! I've used this method before as well...I use this stuff to lube everything up. Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted December 19, 2010 Report Posted December 19, 2010 I suppose the liquid graphite lock lubricant would do something helpful here....and would not get thick when cold. It comes in a spray can far as I know. Quote
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