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Window Winding Smoothness Tip


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Posted (edited)

I take no credit for this tip as I first saw it when reading an article in Hemming's Classic Car about an owner done restoration. First time I tried it was on the window winding system of my '63 Fairlane and it made a huge difference.

I am now reassembling my '48 Dodge D25 Club coupe after a repaint. Doors were off the car and after adjusting them to fit nicely and before putting on the door panels, I greased all the moving parts with white grease. (Always take any opportunity you can to lubricate window mechanisms). My windows went up a little more smoothly but not as nicely as I would like so I used the tip I had read about and used successfully once before. The crank handle attaches to a round part (not sure of the name) which I believe has a coil spring in it to help with winding. Any lubrication in it dries out and the coils rub against each other and there is no way to lubricate this item. Here is the tip. Take a centre punch and make a little mark in the top. Drill with about a 1/8" bit very carefully so you just go through the outer case and not into the spring. You then have a small hole to drip oil into. I use the oil liberally as it likely won't be lubricated again for a long time. If you want, you can put some tape over the hole when finished to keep out any dirt although probably not necessary if your car spends 95+% of its life inside. This makes a big difference to how nicely the windows roll up and can be used on any car with this system.

Attached picture shows the small hole in the top of the piece the crank attaches to. Well worth the effort and short amount of time required. Hope this helps some of you as much as it helped me.

RSCN6579.jpg

Edited by RobertKB
Posted

Thanks for the tip. The about the grease on the bit as well. I alway learn something on this site.

Posted

Our machinist uses permatex #2. Dunks the drillbit in the tube. He said its the best for hard metal drilling too.

Posted
If you dip the drill bit in heavy grease and slowly drill the hole, most of the

flashing material will stay on the drill bit and not drop inside.

Thanks, I will add that to my tip collection for the next time!

Posted

Very good tip! In the past I have done the same on several car heater blower motors that started squaling. Simply drill a small hole in the end of the motor centered in the dimple where the armature rides in a bushing and add oil or light grease. The squaling stops and the motor runs like new.

Posted

All good tips, could you also use a needle point grease gun fitting and push grease into the housing. I would think it would last longer and not run out or dry out as quick. Just another thought.

Wayne

Posted
All good tips, could you also use a needle point grease gun fitting and push grease into the housing. I would think it would last longer and not run out or dry out as quick. Just another thought.

Wayne

Probably the same as a HI pressure fitting.

Posted
All good tips, could you also use a needle point grease gun fitting and push grease into the housing. I would think it would last longer and not run out or dry out as quick. Just another thought.

Wayne

I'm going to try this on my P15. I've got a can of Permatex chain lube, meant for roller chains. It seems to leave a thicker protective film after the solvent ingredient in it evaporates.

Posted

Even a light grease will eventually cake up and cause more problems. Cold weather will cause the grease to thicken up as well. Then you might break something trying to roll down the window. Just putting that out there for consideration. :D

Posted

I suppose the liquid graphite lock lubricant would do something

helpful here....and would not get thick when cold. It comes in a

spray can far as I know.

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