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318/5.2 L Mopar Fuel-Inj. manifold swap ??


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Posted

I Live in SE Missouri; we had a slight warming trend over the Holidays and I was able to pull the engine and trans combo back out of the 48, install new motor mounts ( on the block), and modify the spacing of the holes in the trans mount. Temp last night was down to 19 degrees with todays high being 37 degrees. When it's this cold I just cannot bring myself to work in the garage (unheated).:( We're supposed to have a "warming" trend later in the week so maybe can get more done then. Cass, alias littlemo...:confused:

Posted

After removing the original motor mounts, I bolted in the new engine mount, and installed "locater-pins" (7/16 bolts with heads removed). After the engine is re-installed and it's final location determined,This will allow me to correctly locate the position of the frame mounts and the 1" holes reguired by the cushion set. More this spring after the weather warms !!:D Meantime, I can concentrate on getting my brake calipers mounted and finish the front brake lines. ;) Cass, alias littlemo...

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Posted

Guess while I'm at it, I should go ahead and install the "new" rear sump oil pan et.al. while I have that engine out. That way, when I reinstall it, I can feel more confident I've found the correct location before welding in the new frame mounts.:rolleyes: Cass, alias littlemo...

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  • 1 month later...
Posted

fstfish66; Butch's Cool Stuff has a complete kit available which includes the engine/frame mounts, the cushion biscuts, and the transmission mounts. I thought his set was a little pricy so I went another route. Found the "engine mount" on e-bay, ordered the Universal Biscut Cushion set from Speedway Motors and plan on making my own "frame mounts" and transmission mount myself. Don't know if this is a "wise" approach, but it's where I'm at now.:confused: Cass, alias littlemo

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Posted

Im going your route, Cass. The flattie runs good but after driving it a few months and watching your build i picked up a 360 for the 49. I tore it down for inspection and found that the 360 was a 318 but Im still going with it. I think I'm going with a 5 speed instead of an automatic. It'll be this fall; Im going to get some miles out of it the way it is, first.

Posted

I think I'm going with a 5 speed instead of an automatic.

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Tip on the 5 speed. GM full size 1/2 ton had a 5 speed in the mid 90's. No granny gear. About a .67-.70 overdrive. Made by Getrag. More robust than the GM T5 and it already has the shifter in the right place for an older car. I have the trans in my 32, behind a 350 Chevy and I love it.

Posted (edited)

the NV3500 is used in later Dodge Dakota and 1/2 ton pickups..an one piece case is common to the Dodge line up..(Jeep bolted the bell housing to the transmission case; Dodge did not)...in the light truck range the gearing is close ratio and as such is the perfect tranny for an automobile with upgrade V power..the shifter is also in the correct location...just configured one of these for the 48 Bz Cp  for the flattie engine staying in place and upgrading to a later 5 speed, I recommend the wide ratio gearing regardless of the model used.

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
Posted

As soon as we start getting some dependable warm weather I want to come up and take that ride we talked about earlier; also be good to compare "game plans" on the install of your "new" engine. I've considered the "5-speed" trans swap, and at one time in my younger days, would have gone that way

for sure. However, my current needs require that I go the 904 auto route !! rolleyes:

Cass, alias littlemo...;)

Posted

Yeah, come on by and we'll take her out. I've been driving it quite a bit and enjoying it.

Tim, the NV3500 is the trans I was looking at; I want to go with the hydraulic clutch and probably a Dakota pedal assembly. The plan is a mildly built 318 with a 5 speed, an Explorer 8.8 4:10 disc brake rear, front discs, front and rear larger sway bars, and lower the car all the way around. Im going to collect parts over the summer while I drive it and do all the conversion over next winter.

Posted

A mild 318 does not require the big truck NV 3500. You will get as good as service from the AX15 (96-05 Dak and some Jeeps) or the 05-08 Getrag 238 which is a 6 speed. The 238 is considerably bulkier than the AX15 though...

Check your local craigslist for cheap Dakota units. Are they tough? The jeep-rock crawler guys think so. Here are a couple of pics.

Posted (edited)

the NV 3500 is not considered the big truck tranny, Dakota, Jeep and 1/2 ton Dodge..the big truck I tend to think is 4500 series and these puppies are not really suitable for car with V power application due to the wide ratio transmission..low first and second..great for the flattie

for the record, I have the swing pedal from the Dakota in the 48 Plymouth..they align dead on with the edge of the lower dash..but as an added bit of info..I also welded the Dakota firewall into the P15, simple fast and easy to do.

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Spring having sprung, with all the tree trimming, winter repairs, pollen in the air, being unable to breath; you know, all the really good stuff, it's time to get back on the "Rose". I finally got off my butt, and finished the front disc brake install as well as picking up some Corns-Head grease for my "new" steering sector. Maybe now, I can get "remotivated" and get some more done??? :rolleyes: Cass, alias littlemo...ADD ; I wonder how I'm going to get all that grease into the gear-box through that "little-bitty" hole ???

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Edited by littlemo
Posted

This morning was a little cool, but not too bad, so since I had a few minutes to spare for the "Rose", I decided to put a few remaining touches on my front disc brake installation. After putting the pads in the calipers and replacing the calipers back onto the brackets, it was time to finish installing the front brake hoses. Since the proper installation requires the calipers to be installed with the grease certs in the upper position, a longer brake hose is needed. I used NAPA # 36959 which was ( recommended by & ) originally used on the GM' 85 Buick LaSabre according to "Charlie". As you can see the hoses have some raised sections which are not needed and must be removed when fitting the hoses in the frame bracket where the hoses and lines connect. ( the 48 has a "round" opening and is not slotted for these locking sections ) A major concern I have is whether I am "routing" the front hoses correctly. :confused: I don't want them to be damaged by abrasion from rubbing on the inner wheel or tire surfaces or smashed shut by excessive A-Frame movement. :eek: Cass, alias littlemo...

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Posted

As long as you are concerned about it, that's the most important item. Looks good but best put a wheel and tire on and go lock to lock to be sure.

Posted

When you put a wheel and tire on, check the inner sidewall clearance of that brake hose bracket. For some reason I had to move them on my car when I put on fatter, 205/75 tires and they hit.

Posted (edited)

Thanks guys; I will definitely put the wheel and tire on and check that clearance!!! :o Cass, alias littlemo... ADD: I'm wondering if the frame hose bracket could be heated and bent upward at say a 45 degree angle to give more clearance ???

Edited by littlemo
Posted
Thanks guys; I will definitely put the wheel and tire on and check that clearance!!! :o Cass, alias littlemo... ADD: I'm wondering if the frame hose bracket could be heated and bent upward at say a 45 degree angle to give more clearance ???

I've seen some cars that use an additional bracket that supports the middle if the hose; maybe you could whip up something like that.

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