littlemo Posted January 3, 2012 Author Report Posted January 3, 2012 I Live in SE Missouri; we had a slight warming trend over the Holidays and I was able to pull the engine and trans combo back out of the 48, install new motor mounts ( on the block), and modify the spacing of the holes in the trans mount. Temp last night was down to 19 degrees with todays high being 37 degrees. When it's this cold I just cannot bring myself to work in the garage (unheated). We're supposed to have a "warming" trend later in the week so maybe can get more done then. Cass, alias littlemo... Quote
littlemo Posted January 5, 2012 Author Report Posted January 5, 2012 After removing the original motor mounts, I bolted in the new engine mount, and installed "locater-pins" (7/16 bolts with heads removed). After the engine is re-installed and it's final location determined,This will allow me to correctly locate the position of the frame mounts and the 1" holes reguired by the cushion set. More this spring after the weather warms !! Meantime, I can concentrate on getting my brake calipers mounted and finish the front brake lines. Cass, alias littlemo... Quote
littlemo Posted January 6, 2012 Author Report Posted January 6, 2012 Guess while I'm at it, I should go ahead and install the "new" rear sump oil pan et.al. while I have that engine out. That way, when I reinstall it, I can feel more confident I've found the correct location before welding in the new frame mounts. Cass, alias littlemo... Quote
falconvan Posted February 9, 2012 Report Posted February 9, 2012 Come on, Cass. It's been over a month; let's get to work on this baby! Quote
40P10touring sedan Posted February 11, 2012 Report Posted February 11, 2012 Whoops, forgot to attach the pic!! Cass, alias littlemo... What would be too cool is if we could get Charlie to take that very same tophat and adapt it to the tapered axle rears ends...add a fabbed bracket and a caliper...and some kind of E brake and we'd be all set! Quote
fstfish66 Posted February 12, 2012 Report Posted February 12, 2012 did you make or find a vendor for the mount bolted to the block ? or was it a complete kit ? Quote
littlemo Posted February 13, 2012 Author Report Posted February 13, 2012 fstfish66; Butch's Cool Stuff has a complete kit available which includes the engine/frame mounts, the cushion biscuts, and the transmission mounts. I thought his set was a little pricy so I went another route. Found the "engine mount" on e-bay, ordered the Universal Biscut Cushion set from Speedway Motors and plan on making my own "frame mounts" and transmission mount myself. Don't know if this is a "wise" approach, but it's where I'm at now. Cass, alias littlemo Quote
fstfish66 Posted February 15, 2012 Report Posted February 15, 2012 very good thanks,,, ill be watching ur build,,, Quote
falconvan Posted February 22, 2012 Report Posted February 22, 2012 Im going your route, Cass. The flattie runs good but after driving it a few months and watching your build i picked up a 360 for the 49. I tore it down for inspection and found that the 360 was a 318 but Im still going with it. I think I'm going with a 5 speed instead of an automatic. It'll be this fall; Im going to get some miles out of it the way it is, first. Quote
mrwrstory Posted February 24, 2012 Report Posted February 24, 2012 I think I'm going with a 5 speed instead of an automatic. - Tip on the 5 speed. GM full size 1/2 ton had a 5 speed in the mid 90's. No granny gear. About a .67-.70 overdrive. Made by Getrag. More robust than the GM T5 and it already has the shifter in the right place for an older car. I have the trans in my 32, behind a 350 Chevy and I love it. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 24, 2012 Report Posted February 24, 2012 (edited) the NV3500 is used in later Dodge Dakota and 1/2 ton pickups..an one piece case is common to the Dodge line up..(Jeep bolted the bell housing to the transmission case; Dodge did not)...in the light truck range the gearing is close ratio and as such is the perfect tranny for an automobile with upgrade V power..the shifter is also in the correct location...just configured one of these for the 48 Bz Cp for the flattie engine staying in place and upgrading to a later 5 speed, I recommend the wide ratio gearing regardless of the model used. Edited July 14, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
littlemo Posted February 24, 2012 Author Report Posted February 24, 2012 As soon as we start getting some dependable warm weather I want to come up and take that ride we talked about earlier; also be good to compare "game plans" on the install of your "new" engine. I've considered the "5-speed" trans swap, and at one time in my younger days, would have gone that way for sure. However, my current needs require that I go the 904 auto route !! rolleyes: Cass, alias littlemo... Quote
falconvan Posted February 24, 2012 Report Posted February 24, 2012 Yeah, come on by and we'll take her out. I've been driving it quite a bit and enjoying it. Tim, the NV3500 is the trans I was looking at; I want to go with the hydraulic clutch and probably a Dakota pedal assembly. The plan is a mildly built 318 with a 5 speed, an Explorer 8.8 4:10 disc brake rear, front discs, front and rear larger sway bars, and lower the car all the way around. Im going to collect parts over the summer while I drive it and do all the conversion over next winter. Quote
wayfarer Posted February 24, 2012 Report Posted February 24, 2012 A mild 318 does not require the big truck NV 3500. You will get as good as service from the AX15 (96-05 Dak and some Jeeps) or the 05-08 Getrag 238 which is a 6 speed. The 238 is considerably bulkier than the AX15 though... Check your local craigslist for cheap Dakota units. Are they tough? The jeep-rock crawler guys think so. Here are a couple of pics. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 24, 2012 Report Posted February 24, 2012 (edited) the NV 3500 is not considered the big truck tranny, Dakota, Jeep and 1/2 ton Dodge..the big truck I tend to think is 4500 series and these puppies are not really suitable for car with V power application due to the wide ratio transmission..low first and second..great for the flattiefor the record, I have the swing pedal from the Dakota in the 48 Plymouth..they align dead on with the edge of the lower dash..but as an added bit of info..I also welded the Dakota firewall into the P15, simple fast and easy to do. Edited July 14, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
littlemo Posted April 16, 2012 Author Report Posted April 16, 2012 (edited) Spring having sprung, with all the tree trimming, winter repairs, pollen in the air, being unable to breath; you know, all the really good stuff, it's time to get back on the "Rose". I finally got off my butt, and finished the front disc brake install as well as picking up some Corns-Head grease for my "new" steering sector. Maybe now, I can get "remotivated" and get some more done??? Cass, alias littlemo...ADD ; I wonder how I'm going to get all that grease into the gear-box through that "little-bitty" hole ??? Edited April 18, 2012 by littlemo Quote
falconvan Posted April 17, 2012 Report Posted April 17, 2012 Good to see you back on it, Cass. I want a ride sometime this summr! Quote
littlemo Posted April 18, 2012 Author Report Posted April 18, 2012 No problem falconvan; though I hope you don't mind the return "up-hill" walk !!! :eek: lol... Cass, alias littlemo... Quote
falconvan Posted April 18, 2012 Report Posted April 18, 2012 I'll take my chances; my fat *** needs the excercise, anyway. Quote
littlemo Posted April 21, 2012 Author Report Posted April 21, 2012 This morning was a little cool, but not too bad, so since I had a few minutes to spare for the "Rose", I decided to put a few remaining touches on my front disc brake installation. After putting the pads in the calipers and replacing the calipers back onto the brackets, it was time to finish installing the front brake hoses. Since the proper installation requires the calipers to be installed with the grease certs in the upper position, a longer brake hose is needed. I used NAPA # 36959 which was ( recommended by & ) originally used on the GM' 85 Buick LaSabre according to "Charlie". As you can see the hoses have some raised sections which are not needed and must be removed when fitting the hoses in the frame bracket where the hoses and lines connect. ( the 48 has a "round" opening and is not slotted for these locking sections ) A major concern I have is whether I am "routing" the front hoses correctly. I don't want them to be damaged by abrasion from rubbing on the inner wheel or tire surfaces or smashed shut by excessive A-Frame movement. Cass, alias littlemo... Quote
mrwrstory Posted April 21, 2012 Report Posted April 21, 2012 As long as you are concerned about it, that's the most important item. Looks good but best put a wheel and tire on and go lock to lock to be sure. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted April 21, 2012 Report Posted April 21, 2012 When you put a wheel and tire on, check the inner sidewall clearance of that brake hose bracket. For some reason I had to move them on my car when I put on fatter, 205/75 tires and they hit. Quote
littlemo Posted April 21, 2012 Author Report Posted April 21, 2012 (edited) Thanks guys; I will definitely put the wheel and tire on and check that clearance!!! Cass, alias littlemo... ADD: I'm wondering if the frame hose bracket could be heated and bent upward at say a 45 degree angle to give more clearance ??? Edited April 22, 2012 by littlemo Quote
falconvan Posted April 22, 2012 Report Posted April 22, 2012 Thanks guys; I will definitely put the wheel and tire on and check that clearance!!! Cass, alias littlemo... ADD: I'm wondering if the frame hose bracket could be heated and bent upward at say a 45 degree angle to give more clearance ??? I've seen some cars that use an additional bracket that supports the middle if the hose; maybe you could whip up something like that. Quote
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