Starter Problems

[mikemaker]

My bizzy coupe's starter is crapping out. It's really slow cranking (I mean really slow, not just 6 volt normal slow), I thought it was the battery, generator or regulater, but all is good there. Tossed a new battery in, same symptom, no help. This situation crept up on me over a pretty long period of time but I suppose I'm gonna have to bench test the starter. Any suggestions, should I fork up the cash for a rebuild, or do it myself? What do ya think.

[teardrop puller]

I have a P18 starter you can have for the postage from Brownsville, TX

kai

[greg g]

Probably the bearings/bushings on the end caps supporting the armeture have worn out allowing the armature to actually drag on the field coils. Or you might be lucky and it might just be in need of new brushes. Either one could come on slowly. If you haven't really scored up the armature, you might be able to replace or shim the bushings, to get a little more time.

[Jerry Roberts]

You are probably right that your starter is on the blink , but make sure that both ends of both battery cables are making clean and bright connections first .

[Normspeed]

Mike, you can usually ebay starter brushes. And you can clean up the armature with a little electrical cleaner and fine sandpaper and undercut the grooves yourself. I think I have a used 6 volt starter in the parts pile if you want to swap yours out.

[Don Coatney]

Mike;

Starter brushes are easy to remove. Measure your brushes and compare them to these measurements of new brushes. If you need new brushes they are available here. Less than ten bucks if I remember correctly. Then follow Normspeeds advice on cleaning and undercutting.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Mike..number one reason for the starter to drag is the rear bushing (end plate where the brushes are is worn to an enlongated state allowing the armature to drag). This bushing is available sometimes off the shelf at a NAPA store but if you have a local auto electric and battery shop..just carry in the end plate and get a new one.. Removable is easy..it is oillite material. very porous self oil bronze, score the old bearing down the side top to bottom and then drive a thin bladed screw driver between the bushing and the housing..it will crack like baked clay and come out..just intall new one, first soak it for some time in oil to fill all the pores..an arbor press is ideal for installation..however I have been known to use a socket flat end and tap them in place.

[mikemaker]

Thanks for all the responses, I'll get on it this week.

[bob_amos]

Mike, If you decide to have it rebuilt let me know. I have a good shop for rebuilding these old units. They do a pretty good job and even convert 6 to 12 volts for those guys wanting to upgrade to the higher voltages. I don't know the current price but if you are interested let me know and I will call and price it out for you.

[mikemaker]

Thanks Bob, I'm going to raid Normspeed's junk pile this saturday for some brake shoes to use as cores and hopefully a starter as well. The drag of it all is that I don't have any other running vehicle so I can't park the beater and work on it. So I'm really appreciating Norms giving me some stuff to use as cores for relining and hopefully a starter so I can simply do a swap. Having one car truly sucks. But having a place like this where we all help each other out is amazingly cool.

[bob_amos]

Under stand. If you still have troubles why not use Norms as a loner and have yours rebuilt? Just a thought. This way you can drive and have the original done.

[Norm's Coupe]

Mike,

I agree with Bob on rebuilding the old starter. The other Norm's starter will get you going for now, but it's also used. If you rebuild your original, then you know it's all good for a long time. Norm's starter will keep you running in the meantime.

It's like me and my driveshaft. I've been thinking about putting in the modern u-joints. The shop said they could do the job in only one day. However, you can never be sure of those things. Plus, not sure how well I'll like the new modern u-joints or how well they'll hold up. So........I have a spare drive shaft in the shed. Going to have it done. That way the car stays on the road, and if it doesn't work out I didn't mess up my original driveshaft.

[Lou Earle]

Mike couple tips on starter removal.

Have car

Have car jacked up so you can get under it easy

Remove the gearshift lever , the clutch rod, and the distributor(note where the rotor is on the dist so you can set it back in the same way

Loosen but not remove the top bolt from the top

Take battery cable off at the solenoid- you will leave it attached to the motor as a handle.

Remove bottom bolt- very tedious work!!

Go back up top and remove the top bolt

Have a friend help u get starter out if possible but u can do it alone just very frustrating.

To re install - if you have it re thread the bolt and chase the threads in the starter bolt holes - makes it much easier

Now the trick

Either make or get a stud (1 to 1 1/4 inch) put a slit in it and put it in the bottom hole. Now slide the starter onto the stud and run a nut and lock washer up on it and tighten it -then put the bolt in the top then back under tighten the stud bolt or remove it and then install original bolt.

Whole job if done this way is one hour i1/2 hour out 1/2 hour in

Good luck

Lou

[Normspeed]

Mike, we can swap it out on Saturday at my place if you have time. I've got all the tools, jack, jackstands, and stuff.

[mikemaker]

Lou, good tip with the stud on the bottom hole. I've used that stud method on the tranny a number of times, makes life real easy, can't see putting the trans in without them studs to guide me. Seems that I've pulled the starter on the beast before without having to remove the distributer or much of anything else. If I remember correctly, I pulled the dist. cap, and there was just enough room to angle the starter down and just enought room to line it up. But I was younger and stronger back then. If I can't get it on the first try, I'll go with your method for sure.

Norm, what kind of beer you drinkin, I'll bring over plenty.

[Normspeed]

Miller Lite, but I like most any kind. BTW, see the link...low and slow....

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/17646553/

[BobT-47P15]

I don't know just what they will be doing here about those drinking green beer in excess, but likely something. They do set up checkpoints from time to time. Have been thru a few of them. I will be playing music with a keyboardist/singer guy Saturday afternoon at a local beer joint. Don't plan on drinking all so much though. My newest instrument....in addition to bass & harmonica.

[Plymouthy Adams]

rattle board and percussion...and the ultimate copper clanger bell

[Normspeed]

Very cool Bob. Do you play that while driving?

[Larry Wood]

Toledo Auto Electric (1-419-243-7101) re-built my starter. Reasonable price and very fast turnaround.

[mikemaker]

Thanks for the tip Larry, but found out that it was not the starter after all, it was a bad connection at the solenoid. The p15 fires right up really strong now. I'm really glad about that as it's been my only car for about 3 1/2 months. I think I gotta lube it this weekend, darn thing has taken to squeeking really bad.

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[BobT-47P15]

Ah, no, Mr Speed.....i have not been able to figger out how to play that instrument while driving. I can play it while wandering thru the crowd at the beer joint.....they seem to get a big kick out of it. And while there, some guy dressed like a biiig leprechaun came up to ask if I gave harmonica lessons. Told him they cost a pot o gold.

[grey beard]

Hi Mike,

Can't help but notice your coil location. That must be one long secondary coil wire . . . . . . Is that stock for your vehicle?