1948 B1B Engine Serial Number

[JeffLeav]

I am a new member who joined because I am in the process of purchasing my first Dodge ever, a 1948 Model B1B-108. I've owned a 1953 Chevrolet Model 3100 pickup for 33 years and decided to give the other guys a try. My question: The truck I am considering purchasing does not have the original engine installed. The current truck owner says his dad (original owner) replaced the factory engine with a low mileage similar six cylinder flathead when the original developed a cracked block. Can anyone tell me the year the replacement engine was manufactured or any other information based on the replacement engine serial number I was given: #JEF48388. Any feedback is very much appreciated before we close the deal. A picture of the engine is attached (if my upload succeeded).

Edited August 11, 2010 by JeffLeav
Upload engine photo

[Reg Evans]

Welcome to the forum ! I'm not familiar with an engine number starting with JEF so it's probably from one of many re-manufacturing companies back in the day. A truck engine would have started with a T,Dodge car with D,Plymouth car with a P,Chrysler with a C,and DeSoto with an S. Also some industrial engines with IND. You can measure the stroke of the engine by removing the little pipe plug on the head over the #6 cylinder and inserting a stiff wire in the hole and measuring the total travel of that wire. The stroke on a 218 is 4 3/8" and a 230 is 4 5/8".

Did you get that # from the flat boss just above the freeze plug shown in your photo?

[48Dodger]

Welcome Jeff,

Fill out the "about me" part...we're all over the world, as you know, and a really well informed member might live close by.

The stamp that Reg mentioned looks untouched in the photo. If you haven't looked there first, you might at least get a lead going with the application (car or truck).

48D

[JeffLeav]

Wow, this forum is great! Super information! Thank you!

The engine photo and identification number came from a niece of the owner. I was unable to tell her exactly where to locate the engine ID number so she did her best. Can you tell me where to look for the engine ID number and I will ask her to look again?

[HanksB3B]

above the freeze plug on the left? That's it. (Not the set of numbers in the casting in the lower right) I learned here on the forum all the other numbers are that pop-out are casting numbers (makes sense). My engine was made on the "N" or night shift.

Hank

[JeffLeav]

Hank,

Huge help, thanks! The truck is in CA and I'm in CT. I've sent an email asking for confirmation of the engine ID number based on the photo you posted. Hope to hear back soon.

Again, you guys are terrific,

Jeff

[ggdad1951]

welcome aboard the land of spending all your free time and money on old Dodges! Or is that just me?

I've found this place to be a plethora of knowledge and wisdom! If these guys don't know it, no one does!

[Mario Loya B1B]

The truck is in CA and I'm in CT.

Yes! The list of CT members continues to grow! Welcome Jeff.

[JeffLeav]

My engine ID numbers runner in CA just emailed back that her children go back to school soon and she can't re-check the engine number for a week or two. She is asking if the engine ID number she wrote down as "JEF48388" could really be "TEF48388".

Based on the engine ID number that Hank provided in his photo the answer to her question appears to be NO. I am uploading the engine photo again, this time with the location of the engine ID number clouded in red. I tried zooming in on the photo but resolution is not sufficient to decipher. Please confirm our gal in CA and I are looking in the correct location for the engine ID number.

Question: Once we have the correct engine ID number, is there a manual that lists and explains what the numbers mean?

Grateful my kids are out of school,

Jeff

Engine ID Location.pdf

[Reg Evans]

That's the spot.

Yes,look here for engine numbers.

http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php

[48Dodger]

Where at in California Jeff ?....there's a ton of us "no-zee" members here who could stop by and take a look at it. Btw....it was a 48 B1B that got me started in this whole mess. lol.

48D

This a link to my Youtube page with nothing but 48-53 Dodge Truck stuff. lots of members videos too, good fun.

48D

http://www.youtube.com/user/194853DodgeTrucks

[JeffLeav]

48D,

Your Youtube page is awesome! I plan to revisit multiple times and learn a bunch about these trucks the Dodge brothers built. They appear to be very similar to the 1948-53 Chevrolet trucks I know so well.

The 1948 B1B I'm hoping to purchase is stored in Oakland, CA. I received a call last month from my sister in VA. Her brother-in-law in AZ inherited the truck from his dad ten years ago who bought it from the dealer new. The B1B is green like my 1953 Model 3100 Chevrolet that I dubbed the 'Iron Watermelon' when I bought it in 1975 in LA while in the Air Force. The Dodge may become 'Iron Watermelon II'....god willing and the creek don't rise!

Thanks for the offer to check out the Dodge, but I have lots of photos and have decided to go ahead with the purchase. Next challenge is to locate a shipper (and it also needs a tailgate).

Question: I need to find a shipper who can deliver to CT. Schedule is flexible.

Anybody know of a good shipper that can load/unload a truck that is not running but rolls fine.

Getting excited about owning a Dodge,

Jeff

[HanksB3B]

Would like to see more pictures of your soon to be truck. It looks to be (at least from the engine compartment) to be "all there" as they say and it's always nice to see pictures of the way it was back in the day.

Bruce Horkey is the guy you want to contact for anything related to the truck bed.

http://www.horkeyswoodandparts.com/page36.html

Hank

[ggdad1951]

I've most likely got a tailgate available, but it is for a 51 B-3-D...needs a bit of work

[JeffLeav]

Folks,

My search continues to learn the origin of the engine in my 1948 B1B 108 pickup. I know the engine was replaced by the original owner, at least according to his son, when I bought the truck last month. The original engine failed near Reno, NV when a drop in temperature froze and cracked the block. I was told a junkyard engine in good condition and low mileage replaced the original.

The present engine block identification number appears to be "JEF 48388". I hope I am attaching a photo (if file is not too large). The first letter 'J' does not look like a 'T', but even if it is, I cannot find any engine number sequence that begins with 'TEF'....at least from researching the link kindly given by Reg Evans earlier in this thread or by just Googling the entire number.

Any other stones I've left unturned? Even out of the box ideas appreciated!

Many thanks,

Jeff

[Dan Babb]

Picture didn't work.

Try posting over at the HAMB too...there are some guys out there that have forgotten more than most of us will ever know.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/

[JeffLeav]

Folks,

My apology for becoming boring as I continue searching for the secret identity of the non-original engine in my 1948 B1B 108 (1/2 ton pick-up). I am adding the parenthesis because the code may not yet be known to new guys like myself. Anyway, I succeeded in learning how to upload photos and have included three showing the engine, engine identification number (JEF 48388) and a photo taken from the pax side of the engine below the intake & exhaust manifolds. My questions are as follow:

1. If the engine identification does not match the usual factory numbering and belongs to a engine rebuilder, how can I determine the year and origin of the engine? I'm asking for two reasons: a) curiosity and to order parts.

2. What's the item that sticks out on the pax side of the engine below the intake & exhaust manifolds? I saw a similar item on an engine photo in Don Bunn's Dodge B-series Trucks book, but found no explanation of the item.

Jeff Leavenworth

1948 B1B Pick up

Woodbury, CT

1948 Dodge Truck 021 (Large).pdf

1948 Dodge Truck 007 (Large).pdf

1948 Dodge Truck 8772 (Large).pdf

[Reg Evans]

That thing sticking out of the engine you have an arrow pointing to is the oil pump.

You may be able to id the year of the engine by looking for the casting date on the drivers side of the block .....in this case just to the left of the oil filler tube. 6/30/53

You'll need to measure the stroke by removing the little pipe plug over #6 cylinder and measuring with a piece of wire to know if it's a 218 or a 230.

Edited December 1, 2010 by Reg Evans

[greg g]

My guess would be it probably a Jasper rebuild, they have been in business a long time.

They usually paint their rebuilds green but not always. Chrylser sold bare unsamped blocks to rebuilders, they were supposed to put their numbers on the blocks. So not only did they rebuild existing engines they also built engines out of parts and new blocks.

It might be worth contacting Jasper to see if they used those numbers.

Also look on the block in the area of the distributor for a brass tag or the remains of a rivet. Many times the rebuilders would attach a tag with information such as over bore, and or undersize cuts on turned crakshafts.

The other thing to do is measure the head of the engine. Dodge, Plymouth and Dodge trucks used a 23.5 inchlong block, chrylsers, desotos, and all Canadian produced mopar vehicles had a 25 ich long block.

the good thing is basically parts is parts within the series. The diffeence between a 218 engine and a 230 is the crank and rods, same with the difference between displacements in the 25 inch block. So as mentioned once you determing the length of the block and the length of the stroke, you basically know what you have.

As for the condition of the engine, a compresson test, and a vacuum reading will tell you a lot about the internal condition of the engine once you determin i not siezzed and is ready to try to start.

the plug over number 6 cylinder allows you to insert a piece of stiff wire ( make sure it about 8 inches long) it will ride up and down on the piston as you rotate the engine and allow you to measure the stroke.

Once you dertermint that the engie is free and will turn over, a compression test with a dry and then wet readig will tell you alot about the condition. these engines are prone to havig valves stick open if they have sat idle for a period of time. so that will show withthe compression readings, they are also prone to breaking rings (with or without related piton damage) but other than that if they develop 70 lbs of compression they will usually run. An engine in good condition will produce 100 to 50 psi of compression.

another idication of good health is that all the cylinders will be with in 10% of the highest's cylinders reading.

Its gotta be crazy to try to determine these things long distance, but patience is usually rewarded.

Welcome to to the forum. While you waait for the time you can actually lay your hands on it, read all you can of this forum and its host site. there is a lot of information here regardig tech stuff parts purveyors tune up and maint stuff, so bone up before the truck arrives. so make sure you check out all of the site not just the forum. Click the return to P15 D 24 button in the header area.

[JeffLeav]

Greg,

Thank you for that 'drink of water from a fire hydrant' answer to my engine id question! This forum is fantastic!

Per your advice, today I sent an email to Jasper Engines & Transmissions in Jasper, IN along with photos to see if they are affiliated with my flathead engine. Hope to hear back soon. If not, I'll try calling them.

I actually do have my 1948 Dodge back here in CT. I can measure the block length this weekend. And then, as soon as the weather breaks, I'll put the battery back in, crank the engine over and take those compression, vacuum and piston stroke measurements you recommended. Is there any way to hand crank the engine without the battery for the stroke measurements? Seems safer than using the starter especially when poking stiff wire down into the cylinder.

Sidebar: This weekend I am rebuilding the Carter carburetor after sitting for 12 years with old gas. My wife's mom & dad worked many years for Carter in St. Louis, so this will be a bit nastalgic, too. Once again, the forum has been tremendously helpful on carb rebuild tips.

Reg Evans: Thanks for solving the oil pump mystery. I'm more familar with inboard oil pumps that are only accessible by removing the pan. Dodge sure had some interesting engineering concepts! Not that oil pumps fail often, but outboard pumps would seem to simplify oil pressure troubleshooting & pump replacement.

That's enough for now, my engine id search continues...but not alone! Thanks guys.

Jeff Leavenworth

1948 B1B 108 "The Iron Watermellon II"

Woodbury, CT

[Reg Evans]

Oh God YES. The piston stroke measurement should be done with all the plugs out so you can turn the engine by hand using the fan blade.

[JeffLeav]

Greg G,

Your advice about my engine being a Jasper was accurate. Shane Hester at Jasper responded as follows to my inquiry about the engine manufacturer in my 1948 B1B:

Jeffrey,

That does look like an old Jasper number, however it is to old for us to pull up any information on. This would have been a stock rebuild for the application.

My email to Jasper:

Folks,

I recently purchased a 1948 Dodge B1B 108, ½ ton pickup truck from the son of the original owner in San Raphael, CA. He knows his Dad replaced the original engine sometime during the early 1950's with the engine shown in the photos, but we are not sure of the manufacturer or year built/rebuilt. I am hoping to determine the manufacturer of the engine with block number JEF 48388. Please see attached photos. Could this be a Jasper engine? If so, does the number indicate horsepower, cubic inches or date of manufacture?

Many thanks for your time,

Jeff Leavenworth

[Dan Babb]

Cool info.

Take what you've learned and post over at the HAMB. I've seen posts where guys have looked in very old catalogs and company brochures and found information that could be helpful.

Maybe someone there could give you an idea of how old that engine is based on the Serial.

[JeffLeav]

My 1948 B1B "Iron Watermelon II" with suspected Jasper rebuilt flathead six cylinder engine is outside in CT and not yet running. After transportation from CA last month, I drained the coolant at the radiator lower hose petcock, removed the upper hose/thermostat housing and refilled the block with anti-freeze. Also, I disconnected the heater hoses, gently air purged any remaining coolant from the heater coil and refilled with anti-freeze. Question: Since I could not locate an engine block drain plug, should I do anything else to winterize for normal CT weather down to zero (very seldom) degrees F?

Concerned if the block will crack or heater coil could burst!

Jeff Leavenworth

Woodbury, CT

[greg g]

the block drain is located near the bottom the the block between the oil fill tube and the dizzy. Moany have a petcock but if the petcock is not there there should be a pipe plug. Dont confuse it with a similar plug that is in the oil gallery. that is the semi roud casting at the base of the block where the oil pressure gauge and filter are plumbed from.

Did you use a mix of anti freeze of just anti freeze. By itself anti freeze doesn't provide a lot of freeze protection.