how do you remove a stuck engine?

[41/53dodges]

is there any good way to remove a stuck engine? this is for the 41', but its about the same as the 53' as far as mounting goes. i need to pull only the engine, preferably leave the trans and mounts in place. im trying to figure out how to remove it from the trans, the mounts are easy.

[grey beard]

You pull a "stuck" engine in the same fashion as a "free" one - no difference in the procedure. Most folks who pull Pilothouse engines do so with the trans attached. Its your call there.

I'm trying to understand what about a seized engine would make it any different than a live one when it comes to removing it. Help me out here. Whatareya' thinking?

Good Luck

[41/53dodges]

id rather not remove the trans from the truck, or the cross member that supports the rear of the engine and the trans. if i could turn it, i could remove the flywheel. since i cant, i cant get to all of the bolts. to remove the engine and trans, i need to pull the front sheet metal all-around and take off the top of the trans, which i would rather not get full of crap from the truck. that, and i have never pulled an engine except for lawnmowers.

[Merle Coggins]

Well... in order to remoe the flywheel from the engine you first need to remove the transmission and clutch. So you're better off to just remove the transmission and then pull the engine with the bell housing attached. Once it's out you can get the bell housing off the engine by lifting it up and over the flywheel.

Merle

[JBNeal]

I reckon that's the nature of the beast, finding how to get all of the bolts out with the least amount of work. Since this beast has been sitting in the woods for all these years, it might have to bite the bullet & pull the engine+trans as a unit for cleaning & replacing the gearbox seals. At the very least, the transmission will have to be removed to get at those remaining flywheel bolts. Jacking up the front of the truck a foot or two should give enough room to get a floor jack (and adapter) under the transmission to guide it off the pilot bushing, but the driveshaft will need to be removed.

fwiw, I've resurrected two Pilot-House trucks from being parked outside for 20+ yrs...getting the '48 road-ready was an extended chore and taught me patience with each busted bolt & knuckle, so when I tackled the '49, I was ready for each hurdle that I had to cross. This also gave me the confidence & patience to split my International 584 to replace leaking engine seals & a fried parking brake. They are all machines that can be worked on if'n ya take yer time and accept the workload that is required to get the job done.

[41/53dodges]

I reckon that's the nature of the beast, finding how to get all of the bolts out with the least amount of work. Since this beast has been sitting in the woods for all these years, it might have to bite the bullet & pull the engine+trans as a unit for cleaning & replacing the gearbox seals. At the very least, the transmission will have to be removed to get at those remaining flywheel bolts. Jacking up the front of the truck a foot or two should give enough room to get a floor jack (and adapter) under the transmission to guide it off the pilot bushing, but the driveshaft will need to be removed.

fwiw, I've resurrected two Pilot-House trucks from being parked outside for 20+ yrs...getting the '48 road-ready was an extended chore and taught me patience with each busted bolt & knuckle, so when I tackled the '49, I was ready for each hurdle that I had to cross. This also gave me the confidence & patience to split my International 584 to replace leaking engine seals & a fried parking brake. They are all machines that can be worked on if'n ya take yer time and accept the workload that is required to get the job done.

just so that you know, this is not the first old vehicle i have resurrected. just a month ago, the 53' got out of the garage and driving for the first time in 40 years. i took part in resurrecting a 37' austin, and am now working on a 1909 REO fire engine with my best friend along with the 41'

[grey beard]

41/53,

Whatrcher' a'sayin' just don't make good sense. The crossmember you don't wanna' remove is the bellhousing, and pullin' the engine whilst leavin' that in the frame without pulling the tranny just flat out ain't no way a'tall possible. Furthermore, several of us have successfully pulled engine/tranny combinations without first pulling the nose.

If you'll accept a suggestion at this point in time, pulling a Pilothouse nose involves two nuts and washers on the core support, three bolts on the rear of each fender and lifting the hood off. Do that and Jack's Your Uncle - you now have total and complete acces to everyghing in the front end as well as the suspension, wiring, etc. I did this and it is the way I would do it again, no questions asked.

Give it a try and post back to let us know how it is going.

Good Luck

[41/53dodges]

keep in mind, i am working with this beast. all the parts are interconnected.

[Young Ed]

The job rated trucks are also designed to pull the front clip easily to work on the engine. Two screws at either the front or the back and you can slide the hood out and off. There are two bolts for the core support under the radiator one bolt on each side for the back of the inner fender and then three bolts holding the running board to the bottom of the fender. The big trucks are slightly different in the running board area but I still believe about 10 fastners and the clip comes off.