Allen I. Posted June 26, 2010 Report Share Posted June 26, 2010 Any reason this would not work on our trucks? http://cgi.ebay.com/New-John-Deere-Positive-Battery-Cable-2-0-Gauge-6-8-ft-/370353754248?cmd=ViewItem&pt=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item563acdd088 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 26, 2010 Report Share Posted June 26, 2010 Wrong size and way to long. You need size 0 or 00 is even better. The cables should be no longer than required as longer cables require more current. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen I. Posted June 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2010 (edited) Aren't those 00? Charts like the one below note 00 as 2/0. http://custombatterycables.com/technical_data.htm I need the length due to what the PO did to the floorboards and original location. I have a remote for the master cylinder on my firewall and have not been able to nicely locate the battery under the hood so the battery remains behind the seat. Edited June 26, 2010 by Allen I. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted June 26, 2010 Report Share Posted June 26, 2010 Replacement cable should be 2/0 AWG, preferable with soldered lugs & terminals. One of the hardest lessons for me to learn about 6V systems after dealing with 12V systems all of my life boils down to Ohm's Law. The 6V system needs the least amount of resistance to operate, and even though my original cables looked OK, there was corrosion between the strands in the cable that had a cumulative effect that bumped up the resistance significantly, especially when the engine got hot during the TX summer. Also, corrosion at the terminals & lugs would do the same thing. So fresh conductors with sealed off terminals are ideal to minimize resistance, along with using the minimum length required to complete the circuit. Crimped or bolted terminals are ok for short term use, but eventually corrosion will begin to take place within the cable as sulfates begin to wick along the copper strands, and then you'll be cussin' the 6V system for being unreliable. Figure out where your battery will be located before investing in new cable assemblies. Originally, the positive ground cable was bolted to the top of the transmission. A simple upgrade is to use a starter mounting bolt as the location for the ground cable. This will ensure continuity and make for improved starter motor performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 26, 2010 Report Share Posted June 26, 2010 Aren't those 00? Charts like the one below note 00 as 2/0.http://custombatterycables.com/technical_data.htm I need the length due to what the PO did to the floorboards and original location. I have a remote for the master cylinder on my firewall and have not been able to nicely locate the battery under the hood so the battery remains behind the seat. Sorry, missed the (/) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 I'm running 2/0 cable in my truck and have no electrical issues. Go for it. If you can get it for $20, that's a steal. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakenoklahoma Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 (edited) I got this at Tractor supply today, thinking of using it for ground on Farm Truck, my B3D. Thinking of running it as recommended to the block somewhere around the starter. Sorry about the blurry picture. What y'all think? specs: 2 GA, 19" soldered ends, braided cable and, ta da: made in the USA! Edited June 30, 2010 by jakenoklahoma Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted June 30, 2010 Report Share Posted June 30, 2010 I prefer to run the same gauge as the power cable. It has to carry as many amps back to the battery as was sent out. JMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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