Freeze Plug--thanks and a tip

[Barabbas]

A couple of weeks ago I noticed a puddle under Doris (52 Cranbrook), I opened up the hood and found a leaking freeze (core)plug. So I did what I always do when I face a new problem with Doris--I searched the archives and found that Rob (boxer_inv) had the same problem last year. So thanks to Rob for the thread and everyone who helped: Don & Phil (no not the Everly Bros), Andy, Joe and Tim-I was able to get Doris patched up.

I did have one problem--I couldn't get a clean swing with my mallet to set the lower plugs so----I used my handy dandy Sears Hammerhead electric hammer. It was a bit slow but it did work--it took about 3 minutes for the hammerhead to flatten an area about the size of a quarter. Before posting this I took Doris out for a 100 mile drive--she's dry as a bone

[insaneradio]

Good suggestion. Judging by your pictures you had two leaking. It would be a good idea to change them all. The one behind the flywheel is a a real pain to get to however.

Glad to hear you got her up and running!

Dave

[boxer_inv]

Barabbas

Great that you were able to find the information you needed on the forum - and I'm pleased that my old thread was of use. Your car looks really good.

Did you do them all on that side of the engine? Also, did you give the block a good flush out or not - I got LOTS of gunk from mine and I do believe that it ran slightly cooler as a result of the clean out.

I also recently changed my water pump and then took Dorothy for a 200mile round trip - she didn't skip a beat and I enjoyed every mile - reckon you'd have enjoyed yours just as much. I don't know your background, but I have virtually no mechanical experience, just common sense and a keen desire to do things for myself - the satisfaction sure makes all the effort worthwhile and I suppose even the most experienced users here would feel the same.

Old cars - can't beat em!

Rob.

Edited June 11, 2010 by boxer_inv
Edit

[Barabbas]

I replaced all the plugs that I could get a clean swing with a hammer. I did not pull the other plugs until I convinced myself that the hammerhead method of seating the plug would work-----the one behind the flywheel, well I think I'll just pray for that one

[Barabbas]

Rob--your thread was very helpful. One thing I have found that helps me on the forum is the range of experience. On one hand there are the experts would could probably fix a flathead blindfolded and then there are the folks who have never touched a wrench (spanner) before but are courageous enough to try. I'm somewhere in the middle

And yes, there is a great sense of satisfaction when I fix something and Doris runs noticeably better

[insaneradio]

I replaced all the plugs that I could get a clean swing with a hammer. I did not pull the other plugs until I convinced myself that the hammerhead method of seating the plug would work-----the one behind the flywheel, well I think I'll just pray for that one

I just recently changed the one behind my flywheel. It honestly looked very good. I did have two leaking which necessitated all being replaced. After physically removing and inspecting the flywheel plug I am convinced it would have lasted my lifetime! It seems there is a ledge on the bottom of most of the lower plugs which seems to collect setiment. However the upper plug did not seem to have the same setiment. Maybe the coolant is moving more rapidly there or maybe it all washes to the bootom of the cooling jacket. Well anyway I think you will be okay----lets pray!

Dave

[Barabbas]

I scrapped out the rust "chili" as best I could but I did not flush the engine---we have a new brick driveway and I my normally understanding partner, Beth, may not have been too understanding about the rust stains.

I only replaced 3 of the plugs---the top rear and the lower one by the oil filler tube I left in for now. I didn't think I could set them with my mallet and I wanted to prove the hammerhead technique before making my block look like swiss cheese

[Barabbas]

Dave, I found the same thing---the plug that was most rusted had a ledge behind it--it appears just to be flash from the casting, but I wondered if somehow that ledge prevents circulation of the coolant in that small area and increases the corrosion. I replaced 3 plugs and only the one really bad leaking one appeared at all rusty--the other two seemed very solid--

[insaneradio]

Dave, I found the same thing---the plug that was most rusted had a ledge behind it--it appears just to be flash from the casting, but I wondered if somehow that ledge prevents circulation of the coolant in that small area and increases the corrosion. I replaced 3 plugs and only the one really bad leaking one appeared at all rusty--the other two seemed very solid--

Yes, it is strange how some are far more rusted then others. I too noticed that. As for why---your guess is as good as mine!

Dave

Edited June 12, 2010 by insaneradio
spelling

[ptwothree]

Are you guys using steel or brass plugs? The brass last much longer. I had a leaker on the back of the block by the flywheel and now the engine is on my engine stand waiting to be cleaned up, new freeze plugs and clutch installed. I'm going to replace the trans seals as well.

[Barabbas]

I used steel plugs... I was going to use Brass, for the reason you mentioned but there were some guys on the forum who had trouble with brass plugs staying in. Seems they were a bit smaller in dia. than steel and did not make as good of a press fit

[rustyzman]

The electric hammer is a great idea. I have done them insitu under engine mounts and other ugly places on other cars and they can be a real pain to get a swing on even using a swivel freeze plug driver. That little electric hammer could be worth it just for that. Nice tech tip.

[Don Coatney]

The electric hammer is a great idea. I have done them insitu under engine mounts and other ugly places on other cars and they can be a real pain to get a swing on even using a swivel freeze plug driver. That little electric hammer could be worth it just for that. Nice tech tip.

Electric (or air) hammer looks like it will work well and I second the the thanks for posting. One other reminder.

As these engines have been around for a long time the sealing area where the expanded welsh plug is posta expand and seal may be pitted from prior rust formations. As has been mentioned several times before the use of a good sealent of your choice is recommended. My take is the good sealent does as much (if not more) good to repair the leak than expanding the plug by any mechanical means.

[Frank Elder]

Electric (or air) hammer looks like it will work well and I second the the thanks for posting. One other reminder.

As these engines have been around for a long time the sealing area where the expanded welsh plug is posta expand and seal may be pitted from prior rust formations. As has been mentioned several times before the use of a good sealent of your choice is recommended. My take is the good sealent does as much (if not more) good to repair the leak than expanding the plug by any mechanical means.

Don, how about filling the pits with JBW and then smoothing the repaired area, do you think the repair would hold? Of course you would still seal and dimple the plugs.

[insaneradio]

FRANKIE47,

Sounds like WAY too much work when a good sealant bead around the plug and the hole will surfice.

Good luck with yours,

Dave

[rustyzman]

Gotta definately agree with Don on the sealant. I have little trust for imperfect surfaces sealing on their own, too many leaks after the fact have proved it. Use a quality sealer of your choice on those.

[Barabbas]

Using a good Sealant is something I picked up from Rob's original post--I used Permatex #1

Mike