Speaking of Paint

[1950 Special Deluxe]

My car is still original paint, it has been garaged most of its life. The paint is in pretty good condidtion, a new paint job is not going to happen any time soon. I would like to remove some of the old dead paint and restore some shine. What would be the best product to use (in addition to elbow grease) to remove old oxidized paint and restore some color? The car is grey.

I have included a picture from a local Hot Rod show, my car is outside in the parking lot, they had set up an area called the Classic Corral for not quite show ready cars.

Thanks

[BobT-47P15]

Looks pretty nice, even if not ready for the big show..........

I part of the time use Maguires clener/wax in liquid form.

Also use some of that light blue colored carnauba wax sold at

swap meets. Either does a good job on my paint that was new

about 10 or 12 years ago, but should work on yours also.

[55 Fargo]

I would be careful, not remove to much paint, or by breaking through thin areas.

i would use only a mild polish, nothing too abrasive, clean up some of the oxidized old paint,then wax and enjoy. I think I would maybe stay way from a power buffer, and do it by had.

You could polish the chrome and stainless too......

[1949P17BC]

If it was me, I would take it to a nice body shop or detailer and ask them how toget the bvest shine back, You might be surprised what tricks they have!

[55 Fargo]

If it was me, I would take it to a nice body shop or detailer and ask them how toget the bvest shine back, You might be surprised what tricks they have!

I think I wouild be careful with that too, as those places generally use power equipment, and probably are not used to dealing with 60 year old paint.

No doubt there would be some good ones out there, but this is something this Guy will need to research.

I would try some test areas in a small inconspicuous spot first, and see what happens.

[1950 Special Deluxe]

Thanks for the help. Looks like I am on the right path, last summer after I brought the car home from my in-laws my wife and sons were rubbing it down with Mothers California Gold Carnauba Cleaner Wax ( I was working on getting it running) that I was recommended to use. I thought that they could have rubbed harder, BUT:D:D:D:D:D I was smart enough to not say that because I am pretty sure what would have happened next. When it warms up again I will hand rub it again and send an updated picture.

Thanks Again for this help.

Also thanks to everyone involved with this site, I have gleaned much information from reading everyone's posts and also the archives.

[Harvey Tank]

I painted mine my self! I striped down to bare metel. block saded it. lot of elbow greas. then I color sanded it, then buffed it. it turned out great. takes time and patents.

[james curl]

Think back on all of the time that you put into this paint job. See if you can come up with an estimate of the number of hours it took you to produce then multiply by $30.00 an hour, then add in all of the materials so that the members of the forum can see what it costs if you have to pay someone else to do it. I think some think any number over a couple of thousand is too much. If you have never striped a car to bare metal and fixed all the little dings life has given the old girl and hope for no major repairs the time required is mind boggling. Never mind the materials, fillers of different textures, sand paper in many grades and sheets, primer,sealer and the list goes on.

[Joe Flanagan]

I can attest to that because that is exactly what I am in the process of doing with my own car.

[Andydodge]

I am not a professional painter tho' I have painted a few cars over the yrs, I'd go over the car with a machine cutting compound BUT BY HAND, ie, make up some cotton pads and use the machine compound straight from the can if its a fine grade or if you're not sure, cut it with some water and test inside the trunk or door jams. After that then hand polish.......if you know someone that you can trust with a machine then fine, get them to polish it but make sure you tell them NOT to go anywhere near the dooredges, rain gutter edges, etc......those areas you should polish yourself by hand.....dunno if this helps.........andyd

[greg g]

You will be suprised on how the old paint can come back. See if you have a body shop supply place in the area. Go to a dealer and check wit their bodyshop manager to see where he gets his supplies. McGuires(sp) has a system of buffing compounds which are designed to use foam polishing pads on rotary buffers. It is nearly impossible to burn through paint with a foam pad, operative word nearly. But the mc Guires guys might even give you a demonstration if you purchase the supplies. I have watched them take a finish from 600 grit wet sant to a beautiful shine with 2 or 3 compund steps.

I worked at a detailing shop and we used it after wet sanding a car with 1200 and 2000 wetsanding paper. The 2000 is wierd, the velcro fasteners have a more abrasive feel than the sand paper. The twice over withthe compound and the foam pads left a nice shiney finish.