Dan Babb Posted December 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Thank you...that's good advice. I guess I have a few parts to order this week. I don't have a shifter yet. Probably going to get one make by Lokar - mounts to the transmission and with a shifter boot, it will resemble a 4 speed stick. My carb should be here this week too, so I can start to think about the throttle linkage. I have the generator and mounting bracket, but will need to fabricate some type of tensioner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 I'm looking at using a floor mounted shifter to go along with maybe a short console. Bench seat is out and buckets are in so I have a small space between them I can use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 might I suggest ya have an operating prototype to work all the bugs out of, then disassemble for painting & whutnot. Something might pop up during a shake-down cruise that might necessitate more customization. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 That's been my plan all along. Truck will be built at least twice except for final upholstery but pieces will be fit prior to paint. Some parts have been off the truck over a half dozen times just because it's easier to work on them that way or I need to get at what's behind or under them. Frame's been upside down a couple times and a couple more at least to go. Dan's doing a really nice job on his truck, thinking his way through the problems, finding good solutions and will have an awesome vehicle when finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted December 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 I plan on driving my truck around the block a bit before putting the front sheet-metal back on it...that will be my "operating prototype". Since I won't have the radiator support mounted to the sides, it will be a slow drive on smooth roads...but definately want to make sure it runs good before putting it all back together. Other than putting rust converter on the frame and underside, there won't be any real painting to be done. The exterior looks good and a new paint job isn't in the budget. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 My carb should be here this week too, so I can start to think about the throttle linkage.I have the generator and mounting bracket, but will need to fabricate some type of tensioner. What carb did you decide to use? And...generator??? . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted December 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 I got a very good deal on a barely used Edelbrock Thunder 650. The guy I bought it from (know from another forum). He only had it on his car for a couple thousand miles, but needed to go with a different model. I was really looking for a 600, but the Thunder is supposed to have more tuning options and if it doesn't work out, I can flip it and not lose anything. I bought a used generator a while ago..tested and checked out fine. It's a 12v gen from an old Hemi ( the parts book I have says the part number was used in a New Yorker). I'm not running anything with a big draw, and I like the vintage look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 Very sound logic! Truck is looking great. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted December 10, 2010 Report Share Posted December 10, 2010 looking good so far,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted January 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 Funny how sometimes making progress makes you feel like you're taking a lot of steps backward. Got the shifter and measured it while the trans was mounted...then I pulled the engine. Funny how the engine bay now looks like a did a few months ago (empty). Here's a picture of the trans with the shifter mounted (Lokar Nostalgia 23" on a TH350). I bought a shifter boot and think this will look close to what a 4 speed shifter looks like. I bought the Rebel Wire harness (after reading multiple recommendations over at the HAMB). I decided to mount it in the glovebox. Since my original glovebox was toast, I made a new one out of sheet metal. I sprayed it with Rustoleum rubberized undercoating (so it thuds instead of klangs) and mounted the fuse panel. Now I have to start running all the wires. Today, I went to the local U-Pull-It and got a brake pedal out of a 96 Bronco. There were a lot of trucks for me to choose from there, but the bronco looked to have the most compact pedal box and seemed to have the easiest access to get it out. I think it will work, but not 100% sure yet. I'll post pics on the progress I make. Trying to find something that will work and won't cost me a few hundred bucks like some of the fancy aftermarket parts out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 looks just like the prototyping stuff I do at work: build something from a list on a piece of paper, take it all apart, then put it back together again...NICE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatS.... Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 Today, I went to the local U-Pull-It and got a brake pedal out of a 96 Bronco. There were a lot of trucks for me to choose from there, but the bronco looked to have the most compact pedal box and seemed to have the easiest access to get it out.I think it will work, but not 100% sure yet. I'll post pics on the progress I make. Trying to find something that will work and won't cost me a few hundred bucks like some of the fancy aftermarket parts out there. If that bracket doesn't work, have a look under the dash of a 73-87 Chevy/GMC. They have a bracket that has the pedals, has the master cylinder mount, and has the steering column mount all in one compact bracket. I used one under the dash of my 48 REO Speedwagon back in the late 80's. It fit without modification under that dash. I drilled the 4 holes for the studs for the master cylinder/booster through the firewall and the 2 bolts along the lip of the dash and the bracket was in. Even had the brake light switch and the column wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted January 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 Sometimes, it's about the little victories that keeps you going. Today I got my the pulleys lined up. I found the smaller front pulley on ebay and made a spacer to go between the water pump and the larger pulley. Everything now lines up perfectly. I picked up an old style mopar air cleaner from a guy over at the HAMB and cleaned it up. It's an oil bath cleaner that I gutted. I haven't mounted the carb yet, but wanted to get an idea of how it will look. Inside, I'll mount a 10" modern filter. I need to figure out how to properly seal the new base against the oil bath base. I think some rubber seal might do the trick, but I was thinking that I could use some type of epoxy to mount it and fully seal it off. Anyone have a better idea? The top of the oil bath cleaner leaves about a 1/2" gab for air to come into the main housing. Is that really enough space or will that restrict airflow and hurt performance? I could modify the top with some holes on the sides to open up the airflow, but only want to do that if it's necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted January 23, 2011 Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 Most of the later carbed engines sucked all their air in through a small snorkel so that 1/2" gap should be fine. It'll also help keep the noise down when the 4 bbbl opens up. Stock air cleaner lid was commonly flipped upside down back then to access more air. Whether or not it improved performance, it sure sounded like it did. I'd probably remove the center of the oil bath, drill some holes and plug weld the dry filter base to the oil bath, then some epoxy to seal the edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted January 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Got the gauges in tonight. Somehow, having those big holes in the dash covered up make me feel like I'm making progress. Gauges are from Classic Instruments. They call them their Hot Rod Series. They fit the stock trim bezels perfectly. Had to clearance little bit because the back of the guage was hitting a part of the dash that comes across the top end of the hole..but that was simple to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon1953B4 Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Dan, Those gauges from Classic Instruments look awesome and fit your project. I know they are expensive I actually just got a catalog from them a few days ago. Assuming you got them for a 12 volt system are they a standard plug in hookup to the wiring harness? Are all gauge connections the same? Also did you install another speaker in were the old gauges were? Thanks, Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted January 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 (edited) The gauages are 12v...I'm not sure if they make 6v versions of them. There were expensive...but the quote they gave me to refurbish the original guages was over $2000. They must use unobtainium in the process. On the quad, the back of the guage has little screw posts. So you just put some ring connectors on your wires and attach them to the gauge. On the speedo/tach, it has these 'phone jack connector' hookups. Those run to a box that controls the speedo and you make your connections to that unit. I'm jumping the gauge power and lights from one to the other so I don't have to split the main wires. I haven't put speakers behind the square covers yet. Once I'm done with the project, it will be easy to put in an ipod setup. Ryan over at the HAMB wrote up a good "how to" with all the details here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/?p=11082 I'm going to run the lights off one switch (instead of a separate panel light switch). Then in the empty hole, I can put in the iPod volume control and use the original panel knob so it looks stock. My plan for the speakers is to drill a large round hole in each cover. Then use some type of cloth mesh to cover the part that's black now. Just have to find a somewhat decent speaker that's small enough to fit behind the cover plate. I'm not expecting a killer sound...just something for tunes on a long drive. Edited January 28, 2011 by Dan Babb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted March 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 Finally reclaiming some of my garage floor space. I've gotten enough of my wiring, fuel & brake systems done so I could drop the engine back in. Getting ready to start Up & away Almost there Done Anyone have a diagram for wiring up the engine? I'm using the Rebel Harness and want to confirm how to connect the regulator, electric choke and ignition. Other than finishing up the stuff I've already started, then next big thing to work on will be swapping in a rear axle. Going to start hunting for a Jeep Cherokee rear from the early 90's...from my reading here, seems like that's the easiest one to do. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 Dan, tell me about that brake booster and master cylinder i see hanging under there, thanks Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted March 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 The brake setup is meant for an early chevy truck. Since nobody makes an under-floor kit for our truck, I bought this and make brackets to make it fit our frame. The top bracket is an L and the bottom one is flat. They bolt right in. If you look above the booster in the picture I have, you can make out a few bolts that hold a cover I made to cover the hole in the floor for filling the master. Bought it from here: http://americanclassic.com/ I think part numbers are earlier in this thread. Took some measuring and a little trimming to make it work. Also might need to get a smaller booster. I already moved down to the 8" booster, but might need a 7". I think I can move the engine over just a bit more at the tail end and not mess up the angles. But if I can't then I need more clearance. Right now, the booster just barely hits the transmission pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HanksB3B Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 that you didn't have to modify the firewall. Weird but for some strange reason, it's one of my favorite parts of our trucks. Hank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted March 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 (edited) Thanks. That's the main reason I did it. I didn't want to have the ugly booster sitting over my cool looking valve covers. Edited March 28, 2011 by Dan Babb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 Thanks Dan....looks awsome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 The crankshaft needs to be parrallel with the pinion shaft, both vertically and horizontally. If you slide the trans over, you need to slide the front of the engine over too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted March 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 Would a 1/4 inch movement at the tail shaft make a difference? I will double check to make sure I keep things lined up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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