Jon1953B4

Whole assembly is out and even beat the rain............. Thanks guys

I've done a few searches and can't seem to find what I need, any help appreciated. How do you detach the steering column from the box? I loosened the collar on the tube at the box, took it down from the under dash hanger and it does not pull out of box? I still feels connected. I started to pull the steering wheel but im not sure that's the ticket either. It seems to be a tube within a tube? I'm thinking about pulling the pitman arm, box, column, and wheel as one.... Forgive me if this is dumb but I just don't seem to be getting it.

I figured. No problem just would rather ask first.

Thanks for the advice. Here in MD I have the same deal with the jeep guys. I picked up a set of stock 90's 15's with 50 % tread tires for $50. Problem is the center of jeep wheel won't clear hub of my 53 3/4 ton.

Merle, Thanks for your continued help. So out of curiosity the 1/2 ton trucks do they have the same large center hub and just use a 16 inch wheel or?

I've been just visiting from time to time to get info and stay involved because the project has been on the back burner. Recently I came up with a question: What wheel options do I have for my truck, a 3/4 ton? I've read stuff about the 1/2 tons but not 3/4. Correct me if I'm wrong but do 1/2 tons have 16's and 3/4 15 inch wheels? I thought I read jeep wheels would work but I just proved factory cherokee/wrangler wheels from the 90s do not fit over the front wheel center hub. if pictures help please let me know and I'll email them because they're too big too upload.(2.3mb) What I'm looking for is 3 Main Answers? 1) What do I have stock or am I supposed to have? Wheel size? backspacing? Looks like crappy rotten tires show 7.00-15. 2) What options do i have? 3) What's probably the most readlity available replacement via craigs/junkyard/etc? I previosuly gathered this info with merle's help: Serial Number 83396212 Year 1953 Make Dodge Model B-4-C Engine 217.76 Flathead Six Wheelbase 116 Rating 3/4 Ton Engineering Code T308 Plant Detroit, Michigan Build Number 8212 Hopefully this lack of knowledge isn't due to poor forum searching because I did spend some time doing that. I appreciate any help. Thanks in advance, Jon-my poor rusty pilothouse hasn't changed state in months and is snow covered. Plan is to get covered up in a temp garage soon and actually make progress.

Not sure if you've seen this, but it may help. http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/frontend/front.htm Jon

Hey guys, I'm hoping you can help me out. I have a lead on a windshield visor local to me but I'm not sure if it's the right one. Obviously if you've seen my album pics you know I can't drive my 53 to see if it fits. The ad states its a Fulton Visor with drip rail mounts and measures 49'' apart for a split windshield. I can't put the link in for pictures because craigslist is shut down today in protest of PIPA and SOPA internet piracy. Measurements of an installed one on your pilothouse or any help at all will be much appreciated. Thanks, Jon

MMcKinney, This response is exactly why I posted this question on this forum. Along with very good data, you guys have "been there done that" real insight. Thanks so much for all the feedback. You have definitely given me more to think about. Need to bust out the repair manual "frame" section for some research. Something about that shortbed look is just my style so I'm not scared off yet. Did you ever consider in your running board debacle cutting and re-welding your originals to the size you need? For me it also really matters that I have come across a very limited supply of beds(2 and both short). Mine is really rusted and beat up.

Thanks to Merle I now know from my serial # the exact info of my dodge. Serial Number 83396212 Year 1953 Make Dodge Model B-4-C Engine 217.76 Flathead Six Wheelbase 116 Rating 3/4 Ton Engineering Code T308 Plant Detroit, Michigan Build Number 8212

Thanks Dennis. Driveshaft is not a big deal because I have to replace it anyway. Would the running boards be a different size?

Now that I have some direction on what I have does anyone have any input on what would it take to switch to a shortbed and what years are compatible? Is it just a matter of hacking some frame rail or does the axle move forward etc?

Will do, thanks Merle.

49Dodge1ton, that's a valid point to consider. Would the VIN be able to tell me definitively what model the truck is? Thanks, Jon

How do you tell the difference between a 3/4 ton (B-4-C), or is it the optional 116" half ton (B-4-B-116)? Thanks Merle Jon

Hey guys, I have a 53, what im calling long bed stepside. I pulled the bed yesterday which is very rough and I'm considering hunting for a replacement. What I would like to know is what would it take to switch to a shortbed and what years are compatible? Is it just a matter of hacking some frame rail or does the axle move forward etc? To follow this if anyone has a bed for sale or lead for one (especially on the east coast, I live in MD) please let me know. Thanks, Jon

I know this is no simple task especially w/o pics, but I'm still going to poll the best audience I know on the topic. A friend of mines uncle just passed and the family is looking to sell his 53' b-4. They don't know what a reasonable asking price would be. It's an original flathead 6 with a fluid drive trans. Body is solid with just minimum surface rust. Wood bed is half gone and with some good gas is supposedly a driver. Keep in mind this is all what they tell me. All original. I should have more info when I actually get a glimpse. Any thoughts or input appreciated. Thanks, Jon

My truck when my grandfather used it daily for his father in laws heating company in the 70's.

Dan, Those gauges from Classic Instruments look awesome and fit your project. I know they are expensive I actually just got a catalog from them a few days ago. Assuming you got them for a 12 volt system are they a standard plug in hookup to the wiring harness? Are all gauge connections the same? Also did you install another speaker in were the old gauges were? Thanks, Jon

Dan, There are lots of options for rears. A make and model is to each his own, it all depends on your priorities and what works for you. The gear ratio will definitely be important with that beast of a hemi. You may want to consider a jeep rear with 3.07 ratio since you'll be running a turbo 350 trans. From my experience a 3 speed, mild to wild v8's, and low rpm cruising don't mix. I have a chevelle with a mild built 383 stroker motor with a 700r4 speed behind it and even with 3.73 gears she'll cruise around 2,000 rpm @ 65. My buddy who has a similar setup in his chevelle but a TH350 cruises around 3,000 rpm @ 65. Good luck on whatever way you go, I'm sure it'll be awesome no matter what. Keep taking pictures. Jon

Dan, I'm have not yet looked into the overall length yet, but coming from offroad background, I believe jeep cherokee went to the 8.25 rear from 1996-2001 and this is the stronger(more desirable) rear of the cherokees. My 2000 has 3.55's and drums with a 6 cylinder. I can't remember if they made a 4 cylinder in those years but if so they would be 4.10 gears. If you have no reservation about the earlier dana 35(pre-96) I know there's lots of 4 banger wranglers out there with the drums and 4.10's. Also you may want to see if an ford explorer rear would work. They are the 8.8 ( which come highly recommended by guys) and are normally readily available at the junkyard. I know the eddie bauer version in the late 90's has disc brakes, 4.10's, and a limited slip diff(LSD). We put one in my brothers wrangler. That thing is the best 100 bucks he ever spent. They also may have versions with disc, LSD, and 3.55's if that is more desirable. Jon

More piston carnage for you guys to enjoy. Bought my jeep from a guy who said the motor overheated and eventually just stopped working. I got her home(cheap) then pulled the head.(see attached) Jon

Yesterday after some failed equipment and getting rained on I finished pulling the engine and transmission. Was taking advantage of some warmer weather, got the engine/trans on the right angle lifting them out with having to only remove the hood, dropped on some dollies, and tucked away with plastic.

so the clutch pedal arm is keyed to match that key-way and should slide off? I read on one thread something about that shaft being one piece going through the transmission and having pull floor and have the pedals come with the trans? Seems like they should come off just weren't cooperating. Thanks, Jon

Guys, Started and almost completed engine and trans removal today. Got dark before I could figure out how to remove the clutch and break pedals from the shaft on the side of the trans. I did search the forum but didn't pick up anything definitive about how to remove these pedals. Any advice would be help for tomorrow. Thanks, Jon