Rear End Swap Compete

[ssdodge51]

Just finished putting in a new rear end in my 51, what a difference the 3.55 ratio makes.

[Flatie46]

Just finished putting in a new rear end in my 51, what a difference the 3.55 ratio makes.

I'm doing a T-5 swap and will probably swap rears due to the fact I'm loosing the E-brake on my old trans. I see you also live in Tenn, does the 3:55 handle the hills well? Also what size tire are you running.

[ssdodge51]

I've only driven it about 20 miles, just finished today. My truck runs good and I don't think there will be any problems. The rear is out of a Jeep Cherokee (94). It is not as wide as the original by an inch or so. I am running 15" tires with Mopar Police wheels and hubcaps they are 235.75R15. The rear end swap was pretty easy. I live in west Tennessee. The hardest part of the entire swap was removing the original jeep brackets.

[Flatie46]

Was it a 2wd or 4wd cherokee?

[greg g]

Pictures, details, rough spots, drive shaft mods, what universal are you running? Keeping the stock e brake or using the new set up?

[pflaming]

Question: Pontiac went "wide track" in 1956, all other cars were about 6" narrower. Was the width between tires wider on the pickups than on the cars in the early 50's? Evidently so or the 95 Jeep would be too wide.

[ssdodge51]

The rearend is a 2 wheel drive Jeep Cherokee. I went to a "U-Pull It" place and compared all of the available units and the one I picked had no leaks or damage while others were very high mileage and greasy. It is a Spicer 35C (Dana) is almost the same as a Chevy 10 bolt. The rear end cost me $96 which included everything I wanted off of the Jeep. I took everything, all cables etc.

To minimize the amount of work, I kept everything on the donor rear end except the brake hose and u bolts. Like I stated earlier, the hardest part of the job was cutting off the saddles and shock brackets off the donor. I put new spring saddles on it from Northern Tool. U joints are the same, length is OK, no drive shaft mods.

Since the cost of the rear end was about $200 cheaper than the nearest quote I received from a standard salvage yard, I decided to spend the cash I saved on brake shoes & hardware, wheel cylinders, axle bearings and seals and a new u-joint. I also removed the rear plate, drained fluid, cleaned it up and re-serviced it. I would have to look at my receipts but I believe I only spent about $80 on parts.

I removed the hydraulic brake junction block from the original rear end so I wouldn't have to modify the truck and put it on the donor by using the vent/bolt (same size hole) from the donor. The brake lines on the donor rear are are 3/16 so I cut the ends near the block and used adapter fittings. I got the fittings from Autozone, they have a short 3/16 line with a standard fitting on one end and a 1/4 nut/adapter on the other. It allows you to use a 3/16 line with a 1/4 nut, basically a reducer. I cut the lines I bought from Autozone and used the adapter fittings on the donor lines. You can probably buy the fittings but the lines were so cheap I just bought two lines.

I measured the drive shaft angle before I removed the original and set the donor angle the same and I have no vibrations.

I am still using the transmission emergency brake but only because I haven't had time to figure out a connector cable.

If anybody wants any parts off of the old rear end, let me know, I will sell them cheap. I work for a large transportation company so shipping is cheap for me.

Edited February 6, 2010 by ssdodge51

[41/53dodges]

are you by any chance they one who contacted me for info? i still havent tried my swap out yet, kinda curious whether it can still be a good work truck.

[ssdodge51]

Yes, I took a different approach on the brake lines but everything else worked out.

I guess my answer would be you are only working with limited horsepower any way you look at it. I don't plan on using it for anything other than light work so I can't tell you if would pull good or haul a heavy load. I have only put about 20 miles on it.

My only problem is I have one hand on the wheel and one hand with a rag in it wiping the inside of the windshield trying to keep it from fogging up. I can have heat or I can see but not both, the defrosters don't do anything but help get the windows foggier quicker............

[HanksB3B]

What model is your truck.

What ratio rear did you pull out?

Thanks,

Hank

[greg g]

If you notice (not that itmakes a lot of difference sincy gennerlally they are removed) the springs on a 2wd Cherokee are mounted over the springs, while the 4wd are mounted under them. At least on the one's I have seen. It is fairly common for the 2wd to be limited slip, while the 4x4 are open. I believe the 4x4 with towing package are 3.73 while the othere are 3.55.

Are you using stock wheels, spacers's?

[grey beard]

Steve,

Please accept my personal thanks for sharing this pretty fine bit of information. I have been contemplating this swap for some time. You say you got your new spring perches from Northern Tool? Can you share any more about what you used? Good to know about the differential and U joint workding out so well for you.

How did you determine the ratio of the donor rear? Was it marked?

Thanks again for sharing.

[41/53dodges]

did you try locking up the brakes yet? are you also still using the stock MC? i would try mine, but still workin on the electrical.

[41/53dodges]

hey steve-

do you remember calling me for info awhile back for this? i was wondering if you remembered the questions you had asked me, i want to post these things in my thread on the tech archive.

josh

[greg g]

The spring perches I think are from their trailer parts section. They have a lot of stuff that allows folks to make home maid or fix existing trailers.

[ssdodge51]

My truck is a B3B.

The donor rear end had two tags on it. One said 3.5 and the other had 4 numbers on it which might of been a part number but the 3.5 was the key. It was a two wheel drive cherokee with the spring perches mounted on the top. I got the new perches at Northern Tool, 3 inch trailer axle and the width is about the same as the original. I am using Mopar Cop 15" wheels. They have a 4" back spacing which puts the tires close to the bed but still have enough spacing not to touch the bed or frame. I don't think the original wheels would be any problem with spacing but the original truck rear end is wider.

The brake drums are smaller in diameter but the shoes are really wide and it stops great and I am using the original master cylinder. It might be my imagination but I have a better pedal than I did with the original brakes.

I think the original rear was a 4.11, I know it wasn't the 3.90 version. By the way I did all of this with the bed on the truck, two large jack stands and a good floor jack. If you had the bed off, this would be really easy.

I think I have answered all the questions but if I haven't just ask and I will try and relay the info.

Josh feel free to use any of this you want.

Edited February 8, 2010 by ssdodge51

[41/53dodges]

too late, mine went successfully, too. just waiting on the electrical system. cool to see my thoughts put into place and become popular.

[albolton]

I bought spring perches from Northern Tool Part # 12427W 3" axle perch,

only about 5.00 each plus shipping

[B1B Keven]

If you notice (not that itmakes a lot of difference sincy gennerlally they are removed) the springs on a 2wd Cherokee are mounted over the springs, while the 4wd are mounted under them. At least on the one's I have seen. It is fairly common for the 2wd to be limited slip, while the 4x4 are open. I believe the 4x4 with towing package are 3.73 while the othere are 3.55.

Are you using stock wheels, spacers's?

Maybe this will help?

4.0 liter/auto Cherokees have 3:55 gears,

4.0 liter/manual Cherokees have 3:73 gears,

all 4 cylinder Cherokees have 4:10 gears.

Some 87-89 4.0 liters have the Dana 44 rear end.

This information is for the XJ, not the full size Cherokee.

And, is also applicable to the Comanche/MJ.

[41/53dodges]

now, the only thing left is how to make the speedo right.