BeBop138 Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 I have enough material to have 4 bearings made. I need two, and can sell the others. My cousin is a machinist by trade, and has a small home shop also, so hope he can take time to do these for me.... Bob, I had some issues when I had someone make some bushings---if you don`t use the true oilite material you will score the input shaft tip---this makes it squeal and damages the shaft. Using grease will not solve the problem. When you use the oilite bushings I was told to soak them it ATF overnite and then install. Use a magnet when looking for stock to make these---some of the stuff out there comes from China and has a high content of steel and will not work----you need the true oilite material............Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 Good point, oilite bronze is very different from 'normal' stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 I got my tranny, Robert. I'm giving this a shot this fall as soon as I find a disc brake Explorer rearend to go with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted April 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 I bought two of the Ranger trans, incase I break something. I was hoping to install my 5 speed this fall, but my 3 speed 1st gear is not going to hold up any longer, so looks like I will be working on the 5 speed setup soon. I am on the hunt for another Explorer rearend also. The Explorer I bought to get the rearend, was repairable, so the wife took it. She knows, that now she has to wash & wax (bikini style) the Plymouth Coupe very often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 Hey Robert, have you figured out how you're going to make that Plymouth throwout bearing work? I know on the Plymouth trans it has a sleeve over the input shaft that the bearing slides on. Im getting my bellhousing machined this week and was trying to figure that part out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted May 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 I have not figured exactly what I will use on the throwout bearing setup. I have several arms and bearings on my table. I just pulled my 38 trans out this morning. I have been slow at this setup, with my health not so great lately. I had my 5 speed front plate machined, rather than machine the 5 inch hole in the bell housing, either should be ok. I had a couple bolt holes drilled for the top 2 trans bolts, and added a piece of angle iron for the bottom 2 trans bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 With that bolt configuration won't that make it necessary to remove the bellhousing anytime the trans needs to come out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted May 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 (edited) The trans and bell housing may have to go in and out as one unit. Not as easy project for sure... Edited May 4, 2012 by Robert Horne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted May 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 I had the unit hooked up to my spare engine, and had the unit sitting in my spare frame also. I know this will be alot more difficult to install in the Coupe than in a bare frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 just where in the floor pan is that shifter going to be sitting..it does appear to be quite the distance back and was wondering about the seat...but if going buckets, less of a concern I guess.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted May 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 Here is a photo of when I set the unit in my spare frame. The shifter is about even with the steering wheel. So my bench seat should be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 that's going to be an iffy I am thinking with a bench seat unless you be really loooooooooong legged..you may be able to alter the shape of the shifter itself..the height of the stock seat in a P15 is 14.5 to 15.5 inches from the floor at the top of the seat cushion at the seat front...(averaged beween the three here at thouse.). My shifter is centered about 16.5 iches from the firewall adn I think Don c's is approx the same..basically 20 inches from the bellhousing.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted May 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 Hey Robert, have you figured out how you're going to make that Plymouth throwout bearing work? I know on the Plymouth trans it has a sleeve over the input shaft that the bearing slides on. Im getting my bellhousing machined this week and was trying to figure that part out. The yellow piece here is off the front of my 38 trans. I have to drill and tab 3 holes into the 5 speed to bolt the yellow piece on. I have to mill down the yellow piece so the throwout bearing can slide toward the rear a little. I am using the 38 throwout bearing and arm, and the 38 pressure plate, 9 inch... I bought a new Ford Ranger clutch disc long ago, a 9 inch..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Looks like it's really coming along, Robert. Thanks for putting all the work into figuring this out. I'm sure a lot of guys are interested in going this route. Sorry to hear you're having health issues; I hope you feel better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted May 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 that's going to be an iffy I am thinking with a bench seat unless you be really loooooooooong legged..you may be able to alter the shape of the shifter itself..the height of the stock seat in a P15 is 14.5 to 15.5 inches from the floor at the top of the seat cushion at the seat front...(averaged beween the three here at thouse.).My shifter is centered about 16.5 iches from the firewall adn I think Don c's is approx the same..basically 20 inches from the bellhousing.. Tim,,,,I was looking at my Photobucket photos, and it looks like the shifter will be 25 inch from the block, about 12 to the rear of the 38 shifter. I am hoping I can keep my bench seat. I may have to modify the shift lever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 I thought it looked a bit lenghty..now is the time to make these discoveries..its not too late to find one with the right shifter location..I think some of these are just tail shaft swaps to get the correct position..not that familar with the install. I usually put in automatic trannies being the shiftless type person I am..it is by chance I am going with a 5 speed in the bz cp as the donor vehicle has the NV3500 close ratio set up..its a hydraulic clutch so hopefully my left knee will be happy.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james curl Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 The T-5 from an S-10 or S-15 has the front shifter, the tail shaft housing can be swapped to a Camaro/Firebird or Mustang T-5 if you get the right ones. There is an extensive article on the H.A.M.B. site that details how this is done and also on the Inliners site. Both tell how to use the speedometer tail housing and how to locate and shim the speedometer gear on the tail shaft on any non S-10 T-5 in the same location as the S-10 gear. Hemmings had a long article in their little magazine that they started when it dealt with hot rods and classic cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted May 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2012 Looks like it's really coming along, Robert. Thanks for putting all the work into figuring this out. I'm sure a lot of guys are interested in going this route. Sorry to hear you're having health issues; I hope you feel better. Thanks falconvan, feeling a little better today. I got to spend a couple hours on this project today. I modified the clutch fork pivot bolt today. Counter sunk the bolt, used a shorter bolt, so the trans would fit flush with the bell housing. I pulled the two top studs from the trans, and put them into the two holes bored into the bell to match the two holes lower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 Robert, I may have an answer for us on the throwout bearing guide. I took the front plate off of the trans and the snout for the throwout bearing to the guy that machined my bellhousing to see how he could attach the two. He suggested we take some heavy wall aluminum tubing the same size as the snout and tig weld it onto the front plate rather than trying to bolt the other piece on. He said it would be a lot sturdier and should work fine. It's at a shop called Morley Performance where they build a lot of racing engines and he seems to have a good plan so Im letting him go for it. I'll post some pics when I get it back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted May 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 falconvan,,,,A good sleeve attached sounds like a good plan. Here is what a have so far with the 38 cover (yellow), 38 throwout, and arm, Ranger disc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 never overlook the applications of the Torrington Bearing... http://www.daltonbearing.com/torrington/torrington-needle-roller-bearings.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted May 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 Tim,,,,,I bought a Ranger pilot bearing, needle type, for a reference of clearance, which seemed large at about .010 to .012. Installation of the needle bearing into a hockey puck type similar to Don Coatney's pilot bearing setup, may be a better pilot setup, than a oilite bearing. But,I am going with the oilite bearing, with a clearance of about .003. After soaking the oilite in trans fluid for a couple of days, I placed it in the freezer for a couple of days, along with the bearing driver I was using. The oilite bearing installed with not too much difficulty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted May 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2012 I modified the lower mount bracket, (blue now), I made from angle iron, 1" X 2 1/2", should have used 1" x 1". the 2 1/2 was bumping the 38 trans mount. I cut out about 5 inchs of the lower part of the tunnel to raise the trans up and into the bell housing. I ended up cutting about 4 inch of the top part of the tunnel, (red piece), also to get the trans to go in. I should have just cut the top part out, and dropped the trans in from the top, next time.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dctodd1313 Posted May 20, 2012 Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 what year are these 5 speeds out of? looking to do the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Horne Posted May 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2012 These TK5s, 5 speeds, are from 1983 to 1987 Rangers. Some Mazdas have them also, but I do not know what years. The Rangers have a 4 speed also. I believe the gearing is same as the 5 speeds, with the first 4 gears. So far installation has not been too difficult... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.