michael.warshaw Posted December 30, 2009 Author Report Posted December 30, 2009 Hey Don, how about lightening up? don why is this important in this thread? Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted December 30, 2009 Report Posted December 30, 2009 Speaking strictly for myself, I can't stand the way these threads go downhill so fast. It's totally unnecessary. Quote
desoto1939 Posted December 30, 2009 Report Posted December 30, 2009 Mike go to any good motors book and then look at the flat head chrysler section and al Plymouth section. The book will tell you the correct amt of torque and also the pattern inwhich you start the torque process. As a matter of fact I have had my car for over 22 years and I do alot of the work myself and I can not answer this question off the top of my head. I would have to go to the manual to get this very same info. Don is just trying to get you to think and get you to dive into the repair manual to get a better understanding of your car and how things are put to gether. Also leraning on how to take the dizzy out of the car and install points and condensors is good practical experience incase you ever have to do it on the side of the road. The more you learn about your specific car the better you will situated to handle any type of emergency. Since most of us are not auto mechanic by trade we need to rely on other people to help out. But when the opportunity arises alwasy ask questions on what the mechanic is doing and see if you can be there when they are doing the work so you know what is happening. In the AACA most of the big real expensive cars have been farmed out to restoratiion shops and the owners know nothing about their car granted some might but the majority do not. Don is just trying to jet you motivated. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com Quote
michael.warshaw Posted December 30, 2009 Author Report Posted December 30, 2009 ok back to the thread, thanks for all the advice, and will keep you guys posted on what happens. Quote
greg g Posted December 30, 2009 Report Posted December 30, 2009 Make sure your service person, not only uses the correct torque, but knows not only the sequence and the procedure. Make sure he is familiar with the retorque procedure. Quote
claybill Posted December 30, 2009 Report Posted December 30, 2009 michael W's posts are somethng else....mike gets 35+ responses and everyone else gets 5-6.! and always manages to stir up the pot! fun to stand back and just read!!! as always, bill Quote
dezeldoc Posted December 30, 2009 Report Posted December 30, 2009 But the cool part is most of the responses are by guys that don't know that much either! thats what i love about the Internet, someone does something one time and poof they are a instant expert! Quote
michael.warshaw Posted December 30, 2009 Author Report Posted December 30, 2009 michael W's posts are somethng else....mike gets 35+ responses and everyone else gets 5-6.! and always manages to stir up the pot!fun to stand back and just read!!! as always, bill this is something ive noticed also, everyone knows the thread is going to be show, with all he smart comments that some post, but waht can you od happy new year everyone. Quote
dezeldoc Posted December 31, 2009 Report Posted December 31, 2009 Your OK shell, the first time out was a freebe! Quote
Don Coatney Posted December 31, 2009 Report Posted December 31, 2009 Don is just trying to get you to think and get you to dive into the repair manual to get a better understanding of your car and how things are put to gether.Don is just trying to jet you motivated. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com Make sure your service person, not only uses the correct torque, but knows not only the sequence and the procedure. Make sure he is familiar with the retorque procedure. But the cool part is most of the responses are by guys that don't know that much either! thats what i love about the Internet, someone does something one time and poof they are a instant expert! Sorry, not being a mechanic, I will take a 2 week time out:)This being my second time out, maybe I am banned. Thanks guys. Glad you "get it" Quote
martybose Posted December 31, 2009 Report Posted December 31, 2009 my engine is at a a engine builder who seems very good and has done some flatty work before. i got the washer notion, from steve at vpw. i am going to buy the head bolts from vpw. i also contacted damper repair place which i got from a previous post he asked for 100 dollars to repair mine, or send me a unit that was already done. ill keep you guys posted as to what happens. i am not dooing my own so why does that matter, i think around 65 -70 should work, as far as torque.vpw steve said that my head mightbe a wter jacket or not, is there away to know or are all th mopar heads different? If your engine is with a builder who has done Mopar flatheads before, why wouldn't he already know the proper torquing sequence? He should have had a manual; if he is using Furd flathead data then virtually everything will be torqued to the wrong spec. All Mopar flatheads have a water jacket in the head, so I'm guessing that you're really asking about the difference between a later head designed for an internal bypass, versus an earlier head designed for an external bypass. The later flathead engines have an extra passage at the front of the block that is fed by an extra passage in the head. These motors do not have a hose from the thermostat housing to the top fitting on the waterpump. There is a specific headgasket that has to be used on an internal bypass motor or you will have a nice water leak. You have to have the correct head, headgasket, block and waterpump for an internal bypass to work. If any of these parts are wrong, you either have a cooling system that doesn't circulate much until the thermostat opens, or you have one or more water leaks from several possible locations. Marty Quote
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