I can't get the rear brake drum off.

[KNicholas2]

I am having a heck of a time getting the rear brake drum(s) off my '42 P-14. I HAVE backed off the 3/4'' bolts on the back, and the drum rotates freely. I am using a heavy-duty wheel puller and the sucker still won't come off. I have not yet heated it up for fear of doing damage. Anyone got any ideas?

Kim Nicholas

Frustrated in Seattle

[bob_amos]

If you are sure that you are being agressive enough with that puller then try loosening the nut just a few turns and slide the car around a corner. Back when I use to do this work without the puller I would use this method with great success. But I have never had one that wouldn't eventually come loose with the puller. You sometimes just need to get real agressive, even though you may think that you might damage something. Just be sure to have the nut in place but loose enough to let the puller pop it loose. But the sliding method works and can be loads of fun....

[1just4don]

Try whapping the puller nut/bolt as hard as physically possible with the bfh!! Then put the box end on the hex head and hooking another one as big onto the open head for a 'cheater' and pull away!!! And if that dont do it find a pipe cheater about 4-6 foot long, that makes them come to tune!!

[1949P17BC]

I agree with everyones advice. Make sure you have soaked it with PB Blaster or liquid wrench, the nut is in fact loose (take the nut all the way off, take a sharp pointed tool and scrap around the threes and the durm, spray it) put some pressure on the puller and smack the livng #@$% out of the drum. You can try heat , with a hand held propane, you won't get it hot enough to melt anything. I know from experinces when you think you have enough pressure on it, give it a little more and a few wacks it should come off.

[blueskies]

Another thing you should do...

Leave the nut a few turns on the end of the axle. When the drum does come off, it could take your head off as it leaves the axle and deposits itself in the wall of your garage...

I used a big-mother-of-a-puller, and a sledge hammer. I used the sledge to turn the puller a bit, and then gave the end of the puller a heavy whack, a bit more turn, another heavy whack, and eventually the drums popped free. The puller can apply a tremendous amount of force, so be carefull. The nut kept them from taking flight, and they rang like bells when they came loose.

Pete

[Guest Nile Limbaugh]

I'm lazy. I tightned the puller as much as I could, gave it another turn, heated the s*** out of it with a propane torch and went to bed. When I got up the next morning the thing was loose.

[Ed Griffin]

Were these always this tight even when new or is it a old car thing? I'm wondering if down the road it will be the same problem removing the hub or if it's been broken loose after this that it can be cleaned, etc. and then the next time wont be so bad. I've had this with newer vehicles but not to this extent. Ususally a few good wacks and it would come right off but these sound like a major ordeal having to use the certain hub puller and all the rest of the stories going along with removals.

[blueskies]

I'm wondering if down the road it will be the same problem removing the hub or if it's been broken loose after this that it can be cleaned, etc. and then the next time wont be so bad.

Ed-

I've had mine off a couple of times since the first time, and they came right off once the 57 year old bond had been broken.

Pete

[norrism1]

Just the nature of the beast. I remember helping my dad in the 60s take of the hubs on the 51 B3B. Heated that sucker almost red hot before it came off on the drivers side. Made one hell of a popping sound when it finally broke free. Truck was 19 years old then. Imagine sitting for 30 or more years without being removed.

[Young Ed]

I must say I've never had an issue with these. Dad and I bought a 40 plymouth pickup out of a junkyard in Jordan MN. That was probably 5 years ago and it had been sitting in the yard since sometime in the 50s. Just put the puller on there and used it to pull the drums. No heat required. Pulled the brake shoes put the drums back and put some used 90w in the rear end. It towed with a car dolly 200miles like that.

Sometimes I think the only problem with these is too small a hammer!

[1just4don]

...next time you take them off you will appreciate the anti-sieze you put on them THIS time. Buy it at a local NAPA or other good part store. Keeps stuff from sticking and rusting tight!! Makes removal in future right easy!!!With a smile instead of sweat beads and cuss words!!

[JerseyHarold]

I've used a heat gun to help pop rear drums. I'm not real keen on an open flame near the car.

[1948Skip]

Gentleman,

Take Shel Bizzy 48's advice. Never smack the end of the puller screw which would the same as smacking the axle. The Plymouth repair manual warns against this as damage will happen in the punken. The axle thrust block can be damaged. Believe me I had this happen to me back in the 1950's after getting my '46 sedan inspected here in Pennsylvania. The thrust block in the rear was shattered and tore up the rest of the gears in only 50 ft. Not a nice sound if you know what I mean. Put the puller on and tighten the puller screw up tight and go to bed. It'll come off.

Skip

[Brad Lustig]

I just want to make sure. Did you remove the retaining nut from the axle? It wasn't mentioned.

[captden29]

when i have trouble and i think it cannot possibly take another hit with the sledge i remove the puller and use different lug bolt holes. start whacking again and then when i think it cannot possibly take another whack i give it one more and it pops off. it is a little nerve racking but we all have to go through this rite of passage to own these cars. good idea about not whacking the end, i have always done that but never real hard. i am a big believer in never-seize. dennis

[KNicholas2]

thanks to all that offered help. I got the drum off - all it took was a bigger sledge hammer. Obviously, I was being too tentative and wimpy.

Kim Nicholas