49DODGEBOY Posted January 4, 2010 Report Posted January 4, 2010 The fluid connection is not a torque converter, it's only a fluid connection, no multiplication of force like with an automatic. It is basically one fan turning another through fluid rather than air. Good luck, keep us posted. It's the term they use in the manual, glad its not the Gyro, that is feed thru the block so says the manual, that would be a pain to deal with. (YOUNG ED) I agree, just need to see if I can convert the clutch linkage, the one think I did not pilfer out of the Plymouth before I sold it...the Fluid drive linkage mounts on the bellhousing. Quote
Young Ed Posted January 4, 2010 Report Posted January 4, 2010 Should be pretty easy to find from another parts car though Quote
49DODGEBOY Posted January 4, 2010 Report Posted January 4, 2010 Should be pretty easy to find from another parts car though Not as plentifull here on the West Coast, but I,m not worried. football fan? How bout them Vikings!!!!!!!!! Quote
Young Ed Posted January 4, 2010 Report Posted January 4, 2010 Not much into it. The vikings are purple because they've been choking the last 30 years. I parted out a p15 but I cant recall where the clutch parts ended up. Quote
Robert Horne Posted January 5, 2010 Report Posted January 5, 2010 Still learning:So after all is said and done, I have a "Fluid-drive". IE torque converter/clutch with a standard 3-spd behind it. Not fun removing the converter in the car! Shaft on the 3-spd is 11.5" long with the pilot bearing "inside" the torque converter. S-10 T5 shaft is 6.5". Bell housing for Fluiddrive is 13" bellhousing for standard 3-spd is 8". Bottom line: diff between shafts is 5", diff between bellhousings is 5" by the numbers using the Coatney pilot style, all should work. Move up the crossmember, re-configure the clutch linkage. guess I,ll find out. [ATTACH]15239[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]15240[/ATTACH] My bell housing looks to be 7.75 inch to the block. The T5 shaft looks to be more than 6.5 from the trans to the pilot bearing, not sure of total length. Quote
49DODGEBOY Posted January 5, 2010 Report Posted January 5, 2010 My bell housing looks to be 7.75 inch to the block. The T5 shaft looks to be more than 6.5 from the trans to the pilot bearing, not sure of total length. Great info, I am also using the Curtis adapter plate, around 1/2+ if I remember, the flywheel distance from the block I have not measured yet, but that will shorten the distance also. Quote
49DODGEBOY Posted May 4, 2010 Report Posted May 4, 2010 (edited) Well the 49 finally took its maiden voyage last night with the t-5, and like all of you had said, well worth the work. It will be so nice to cruise now at 60+ instead of 50. Some of the things I learned: The fluid drive swap is not a straight one. Main differences are the bellhousing is 5" longer than a standard 3-speed, thus the position of the clutch fork etc are also moved back making a clutch linkage modification a must. The Curtis adapter plate worked fine, did exactly what is was supposed to. BUT the fluid drive crankshaft has no hole for a pilot bushing (its inside the fluid housing). So I did mine a little different than Dons. I used the entire ID of the flywheel and used the 4-crank mount holes making it a bolt in adapter plate. The Curtis supplied pilot bushing was then pressed into the center hole of the new plate. Worked perfectly. I luckily had a drivetrain from a 51 Plymouth with a standard 3-speed so the Bellhousing and flywheel were used in the swap, straight replacement. BUT the fluidrive clutch linkage mounts onto the bellhousing, it does not use the two side holes in the block. I modified a bracket to bolt to the engine block, it dropped down and put the "pivot" hole for the clutch linkage in its original spot, worked fine, I just had to shorten the clutch adjustment rod the same 5" distance that the bellhousing pivot fork moved. and created a new spring mount off the linkage. Obviously the crossmember had to be moved, I decided to use the t-5 mounting pad and just made a new crossmember out of tube steel. DO NOT use the s-10 single stud mount, its works like a pivot point and when I started the engine, the trans/engine assembly shook terribly.(yes I should have known) Changed to the 2-stud mount and all is well. Made my own flange plate to use standard 1310 u-joints on a driveshaft that was inside the trunk of a 54 Belair I had previously sold. Perfect length, a straight bolt in. It was not a 54 and I sure wish I new what it was out of to let you all know. I did the short throw shifter modification seen on this site and many others, basically moved up the pivot pin and added a 1" plate. HUGE difference, probably shortened the throw 4-5" which in my case, building a Kustom, I have a 24"+ shifter, so a big help All in all, a little more work than I expected but all worth it. It will be nice to get on the freeway here in Socal and not have people drive up my *** at 75mph. I did not really take alot of pics, when you get in a rythum, its hard to stop. Edited May 4, 2010 by 49DODGEBOY Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 4, 2010 Report Posted May 4, 2010 sounds like you had a lot of fun doing that modification...this is what it is all about..stepping up to a challenge and not letting the word "defeat" come into play..sure you will be happy driving that puppy and feel safer at the same time knowing you can run at speed.. Quote
49DODGEBOY Posted May 4, 2010 Report Posted May 4, 2010 sounds like you had a lot of fun doing that modification...this is what it is all about..stepping up to a challenge and not letting the word "defeat" come into play..sure you will be happy driving that puppy and feel safer at the same time knowing you can run at speed.. FUN? yes I guess so but I did find out I,m not 21 anymore, This 50 yr old body and arms sure did not like laying on a creeper for hours. There is definatly a lift in my future plans. And thank goodness I have a 17 yr old that shares the passion. I wish I had a dollar for everytime he told me to "relax".. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 4, 2010 Report Posted May 4, 2010 If you have the place to put a lift I assure you it is one purchase worth the money..I have had mine for years now, got a 13' ceiling in the bay it sits in..can run my mini van to the top notch and walk under it. It is great for just about any and all maintenece and build of the car. I use it extensively from mechical work, body work and even building and installing my electrical as it is so much easier to work if the car is at benchtop level. get a lift..you never know who may show up at your house..we had a good group and a great time this day... Quote
49DODGEBOY Posted May 4, 2010 Report Posted May 4, 2010 If you have the place to put a lift I assure you it is one purchase worth the money..I have had mine for years now, got a 13' ceiling in the bay it sits in..can run my mini van to the top notch and walk under it. It is great for just about any and all maintenece and build of the car. I use it extensively from mechical work, body work and even building and installing my electrical as it is so much easier to work if the car is at benchtop level.get a lift..you never know who may show up at your house..we had a good group and a great time this day... Oh I,m sure it is. I still maintain all my "normal" cars, have never had anyone else change oil in any of my cars. I built my shop with motorhome storage in mind, 14' doors and 16' walls. So the room is not a problem. Some day I hope, Quote
Don Coatney Posted May 4, 2010 Report Posted May 4, 2010 I did not really take alot of pics, when you get in a rythum, its hard to stop. Sounds great! Post what pictures you did take. Quote
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