yes...another T5 question

[flathead]

I did my T-5 install without a "kit" around 30+ thousand miles ago. I am still waiting on someone with a working "kit" to report in on how it works after a few thousand miles.....

So how did you install the T-5 without a kit, do they bolt right up?

[Don Coatney]

Don, I thought I had mentioned about my Wilcap set-up, It works well and I am very happy with the result. It cost more than the Curtis unit, but at the time I was switching from the fluid drive and the cost of finding all the stock stuff verses going the Wilcap was about a toss up.I have had it in for two summers now and no problems.

Sorry I forgot. I plead oldtimers ailments

So how did you install the T-5 without a kit, do they bolt right up?

Follow this link for pictures of how I did it.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v65/DonCoatney/T-5/?start=all

[BeBop138]

So how did you install the T-5 without a kit, do they bolt right up?

I put up another post on the finished product. You should pull up Wilcap and they will show the adapter plate and what comes with it. After that you need a Chev V-8 bellhousing with the old Chev bolt pattern( Muncie ). You fab your own motor mount that fits on the bolt pattern on the bottom of the adapter. Make up some clutch linkage, rear tranny mount, use a Dakota V-8 starter--12 volt. There is some fabricating, but not all that difficult. You may have to shorten your input shaft 1/2 inch and make your own pilot bushing---I also had to flip the center hub on the clutch disc---read thru all the stuff you can find on this conversion on the web and it will become more clear. PM me if you like, I will be more than happy to help.....Lee

[Robert Horne]

This adapter was available on Ebay not long ago for the T5 to flathead engine. I did not copy the seller infomation, only saved a picture as to make my own adapter plate. Use your own starter, bell housing, trans/motor mounts.

[Young Ed]

Thats the one shown above at the 35plymouth.com site. Sure is nice to be doing this in a truck instead of a car. My kit was cheap well someone donated it to me but regularly $55.

[49DODGEBOY]

I,m going to drop the dime on the Curtis kit this month, or as soon as I identify what t5 I have sitting at home, I will report on how it goes. This will be my winter project,,,(yes I know we do not have winter in Calif)..

[james curl]

I do no care for Paul Curtiss's pilot shaft bushing adapter. I think I copied Don Coatney's design. I pulled the flywheel and had the taper in the center hole turned for a true 10 degree angle and round. then a plug the thickness of the flywheel that extends through the hole 1/2" with a pilot hole in the center to fit the inputshaft on the T-5. You would have to have part that extends through the hole lengthened by the thickness of the adapter. The fit of the flywheel to the crankshaft holds the adapter in place since the inside next to the crankshaft is larger than the hole through the flywheel by 10 dsegrees times the thickness. Perhaps Don can show a good picture of his pilot shaft bushing adapter.

[Don Coatney]

Perhaps Don can show a good picture of his pilot shaft bushing adapter.

My pleasure James. Actually I used a bearing not a bushing. My mentor Bob Criswell sent me drawings of his shaft extender ideas before I did my install. Like you I did not like the extender. Apparently Paul Curtis did like it as he is now selling them. I have the original drawings Bob Criswell sent me at home. I am writing this from Houston, TX. When I return I will try and find his original drawings and post them.

Here is how I did it.

[james curl]

Don, thanks for posting. I copied what you did except I used the large bronze bushing that most Chevy products used. I would think if you used Paul Curtiss's adapter plate you would probably have a with the clutch disc contacting the flywheel without the center first contacting the pilot shaft bushing adapter.

[Don Coatney]

Don, thanks for posting. I copied what you did except I used the large bronze bushing that most Chevy products used. I would think if you used Paul Curtiss's adapter plate you would probably have a with the clutch disc contacting the flywheel without the center first contacting the pilot shaft bushing adapter.

My thoughts exactly.

[Young Ed]

So what about the truck version that has a mopar OD and chevy ID pilot bushing?

[Don Coatney]

So what about the truck version that has a mopar OD and chevy ID pilot bushing?

Ed;

Do your homework and the math. I cannot answer your question without doing the same.

[Young Ed]

The truck kit pilot bushing doesnt stick out of the crank shaft like that one pictured above. I think the math is fine looking more for opinion on if I should upgrade

[Don Coatney]

The truck kit pilot bushing doesnt stick out of the crank shaft like that one pictured above. I think the math is fine looking more for opinion on if I should upgrade

You already know my opinion.

[Young Ed]

fair enough I guess I did. Now if only someone could tell me if the t5 will clear the frame crossmember in a 39-47 frame. Will have to measure that too when I get the truck out of the woods

[Young Ed]

Ok got an actual question someone will hopefully be able to answer. The install for the T5 into 40 pickup has you drilling and taping 4 holes in the bellhousing. I plan to stand the trans on top of the bellhousing to mark the holes. What I need is a scientific way to actually mark the centers of the 4 holes. Oh I just thought of this too I'll need to make sure the trans is perfectly upright also. So is there some sort of tool to go in the hole of the trans and then mark the center of my new hole in the bellhousing?

[Merle Coggins]

Ed

You need a set of transfer punches to mark the center of the holes. These punch sets have different size punch bodies that will fit into the hole and have a center punch point in the center. Find the size that fits the hole in the trans and smack it with your hammer. It'll leave a center punch mark in the exact center where you want to drill your hole.

This image is "borrowed" from Grainger where this set lists for around $25

Harbor Freight also shows a set for $9.99. But these sets only go up to 1/2". You would probably need a larger size.

Edited November 23, 2009 by Merle Coggins

[Young Ed]

Thanks Merle. That looks like a really handy item to own. There is a grainger near by I'll have to place an order

[Don Coatney]

I am not sure how the install goes on t truck but on my car I had to "bob" the ears on my T-5. If you have to do this you can drill both holes (transmission and bell housing) together. Then enlarge the holes in the T-5 to accept the bolts as the threaded holes will be smaller. I used grade 8 socket head cap screws. If I recall they are 3/8".

[fireman_033]

Don I have been lookin at how you installed your t5 and only question I got is how did you center it in the hole on the bellhousing? Is this area the same diameter? I have my trans but dont know when I will get around to installin it. Thanks Scott

[Don Coatney]

Don I have been lookin at how you installed your t5 and only question I got is how did you center it in the hole on the bellhousing? Is this area the same diameter? I have my trans but dont know when I will get around to installin it. Thanks Scott

I used a magnetic base dial indicator. With the flywheel and bell housing mocked up on the engine I clamped the dial indicator to the flywheel and spun the engine. I found that the original hole was about 10-12 thousands off center. I gave this information to my machine shop and they bored the new hole dead nuts on center.

[james curl]

You will have to enlarge the hole in the bell housing if you are using a car bell housing or a spacer ring if you are using a truck bell housing. I took mine to a machine shop and we did it on a milling machine, a bridgeport milling machine. It took some time to set the bell housing up on the bed of the milling machine to center the original hole in the bell housing before starting.

[49DODGEBOY]

I just recieved my Paul Curtis kit over the weekend. Looks as pictured and a good quality. I plan on doing the swap like a layman would, simple and as per instructions. my '49 has the 3 spd and I have a gas, mechanical speedo, s-10 t5. Looking at a 8.8 Ranger rear tonite that is complete drum to drum with emergency brake cables intact. I will be taking pics etc and will update when I can.

[wayfarer]

Toyota supra rear wheel drive and the rwd drive Nissans also. Don;t know why nobody has loked at Toyota and nissan pickup 5 speeds either.

Same basic trans as the Dakota 5-speed...

I make adapters for the Dak unit if anyone has a need.

.

[BeBop138]

If memory serves me you can also use a bell from a Jeep---80-82 with the Iron Duke engine 4 banger---it has the Chev V-8 bolt pattern on the bell and Ford bolt pattern for the T-5 tranny---this if you were to use the Wilcap adapter. Just gives more options using the Ford T-5 also.............Lee