Cpt.Fred Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 praise the lord! i got my rear brakedrum off on the passenger side! bought a puller just like you guys said, 4 hits with a "BFH" (again a useful thing i've learned here) and BANG it came right off! victory is mine! unfortunately, my new whell cyls are smaller in diameter than the ones originally bolted on there, but i guess that should work. i have overhaul kits for the big ones lying around somewhere, so i can rebuild them and swap them in next year if it shouldn't work correctly. what do you think? i sure hope the driver's side comes off that easy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 Fred, congratulations.........as for the rh brake drum.........I can hear it shakin' with fear and trepidation from here...........and I'm here in Australia........lol............btw that puller, whilst it IS a BIG one still isn't as big as mine........I have a Coxhead brand puller, 5 arms, 2" diameter thread in the middle and you use a VERYBFH.......lol........ain't cars fun!!!............andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1940plymouth Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 Like Hannible Smith use to say when he would light his cigar, "Love it when a plan comes together" Have you given any thought to having the wheel cylinders resleeved? Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Flanagan Posted October 22, 2009 Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 Have you given any thought to having the wheel cylinders resleeved? Bob And if you plan to do that and you can't find a place locally that will do it, I can recommend Apple Hydraulics in New York. They did my master cylinder for about $85. They inserted a brass sleeve, honed it, bead blasted the master cylinder AND painted it. Let me know if you need contact information. And congratulations on getting the drum off. I can only imagine how good that felt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted October 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2009 oh yes, felt soooooo good! some people here know exactly what i mean;) after reading so many about it and trying so long i finally made to the "other side", into the "got-my-drums-off"-club:D violence DOES work. hehe. about resleeving.... i tried with my old front cyls, i posted some pictures some time ago.turned out to be a desaster! the cast on the old parts was really bad, holes in there you could read the paper through! when they put the new sleeves in, the cast iron cracked, they tried whelding, brazing and soldering, i had new pistons machined, everything! we didn't get them airtight and they just wouldn't seal. in the end, i ended up with about 500EUR less on the bank and call from andy bernbaum, who told me they had found another set of repros. that was AFTER i sunk all that money, of course:rolleyes: next time, i'll send them to that shop you're talking about,joe. right away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aero3113 Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 Yes Cpt. It does feel good when they finally come off . Congrats!!! I hope you do not have to go through what I did on my left drum on your left drum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted October 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 aero, i followed your steps on your thread, and i don't envy you at all:eek: i destroyed a puller before, but the hub and axle stayed intact. lucky me... pics of the other side will follow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobT-47P15 Posted October 23, 2009 Report Share Posted October 23, 2009 My mechanic fellow evidently had a heck of a time removing the right rear brake assembly on the brown coupe. It was from some newer model car, perhaps a 50s Plym or Dodge. He ended up with some bent stuff and had to tear up part of it to remove. I was gone at the time he did the work, so I don't know all the details. Replaced what was there with correct P15 pieces. I imagine those will come off OK next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted November 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2009 (edited) and part 2, finally! the other drum came off, too, but gave me a bad time i tell you. because the garage is so narrow and there's my friend's '67 fury III in there next to my car, i had to squeeze in between the car and the wall. i had to whack the puller for about half an hour, and just when i wanted to stop and least expected it, it came loose with a huge POP and i jumped out of my skin... badly hurt my head in the wheel well:mad: boy, my ears where ringing:D i dragged the drum and puller out there in front of the car, sat on a chair and emptied two beers staring at it and grinning like a cheshire cat:D now i'll build me a brake shoe adjusting tool, bleed it and that's it. finally. all the best from berlin, fred Edited November 2, 2009 by Cpt.Fred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1940plymouth Posted November 2, 2009 Report Share Posted November 2, 2009 I'll bet that the beer tasted darn good after such a feat. Good for you, always good when a plan comes together Thanks for keeping us posted, Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Flanagan Posted November 2, 2009 Report Share Posted November 2, 2009 Congratulations, Fred. I also work in a very tight space and so I know what it's like to not have enough room. I have to roll my car out of my tiny garage to work on it. I'd give anything for more space. When you build your adjusting tool, let us know, I'd like to see how it's done. I might have to fabricate one myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normspeed Posted November 2, 2009 Report Share Posted November 2, 2009 Fred, are those the brakes on the 40? I was surprised to see the spring type shoe retainers and the shoes look like they fit way into the wheel cylinders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted November 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 yes, those are 1940. i think they've built those since 36 or 38, i don't know. i can look it up in the parts manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted November 3, 2009 Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 Fred, are those the brakes on the 40? I was surprised to see the spring type shoe retainers and the shoes look like they fit way into the wheel cylinders. Different retainers than 1933, but the same "shoes fit way into the wheel cylinders". Here is the 1933 rear brakes (front are basically identical): Getting the dust seals for that style brake cylinder/shoe connection is getting harder. Most of them have round holes for the rod, not rectangular holes for the shoes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted November 3, 2009 Report Share Posted November 3, 2009 When you get ready to do the brakes go out to the technical Archives. There are two post onthe use of the Ammco Brake gage and also the Miller Brake gage. I did this power point presentation at the AACA Antique Automobile Club of America's Convention that was here in Philadelphia PA. I have both of these tools. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted November 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2009 todfitch: kanter still has them, so has andy bernbaum. they seem good in quality and fit really well. i bought an extra package so i wouldn't have to wait so long next time i need them. rich: i read everything about adjusting and the ammco gauge i could find, was very helpful! (also thanks to mr blueskies here:)) i think a less complicated version of that gauge can be easily fabricated to fulfill the basic adjustment needs. i'll keep you updated when i build it, already pulled a good friend into the boat who's a great metal worker:D i did a "freestyle"adjustment yesterday with the drums on and will bleed the system first. afterwards i'll go on constructing the tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Saraceno Posted November 4, 2009 Report Share Posted November 4, 2009 Getting the dust seals for that style brake cylinder/shoe connection is getting harder. Most of them have round holes for the rod, not rectangular holes for the shoes. NAPA still lists them in their PRO SE catalogue... Part #UP6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted November 4, 2009 Report Share Posted November 4, 2009 NAPA still lists them in their PRO SE catalogue... Part #UP6 I don't come up with anything when I enter "UP6" into NAPAonline's PRO SE search function.... I believe Roberts also carries the boots as I got a rebuild kit from them recently. So I know that they are available through the specialty providers. When I posted earlier by "getting harder" to find was that I wasn't able to get them through my local auto supply store. So I am interested in a NAPA number for those things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Fred Posted November 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2009 hey todfitch, lighten up! if i'd pull up in front of my local autoparts store here in berlin with that heap of iron and demand spare parts for it, they'd probable shoot at me:D i'm always surprised how easy it is to get parts for these old ladies, when i still had had my 69 opel it was a lot harder, can you believe that? ok, now i have to wait a few weeks and hang around the customs office all day to get my stuff, but at least i get it at all! one more reason to love these cars! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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