Rear seal replacement

[38plymouth]

Since I have my transmission, clutch and flywheel out I figured I should replace my leaking rear seal. My car is a 1938, what seals do I need to buy and who should I buy them from? I would rather not buy from Bernbaum if possible.

[greg g]

You probably have the rope style if the engine is stock and the seal hasn't been upgraded during a rebuild. Easiest way it to drain the oil remove the oil pan and remove the rear main bearing cap, then you can see what you have. Ifn you do't like AB Roberts has both styles. You can apparently change the rope style upper without removing the crank. You loosen all the mains to get some relief for the crank pull the old one out then pull the new one in. thee is a trick to this hich hopefully someone will post. it like using a fish wire for pulling electical wires through conduit or a wall chase.

[38plymouth]

While looking at Bernbaums site I see the oil pan gasket and the rear oil seal kit. But I also found "oil seal front pan package" what is this thing? I know I didn't change this last year when I put a new oil pan gasket on.

[TodFitch]

You have a rope seal on that. Same part number for 1933-41 Plymouth passenger cars: 891455. See:

http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group9#891455

I don't have a modern cross reference for this but your older numbers include:

Best Gaskets 4162

Victor 17373

Best Gasket has a web site but they only sell through retailers not direct. http://www.bestgasket.com/.

Edited August 19, 2009 by TodFitch
Because my first try was totally bollixed up.

[claybill]

ROBERTS has it. emailed me today $10. rope seal. you use your original metal rope retainer.

bill

[billwillard]

NAPA- Carquest -autozone- Advance CK your local auto parts store

[TodFitch]

NAPA- Carquest -autozone- Advance CK your local auto parts store

Parts book shows a different oil seal package for 1936-41 (891454) than for 1942-48 (996350). However Best Gasket shows one part number for 1933-59 with rope seal (4162).

So I guess there is a chance that the newer rope seal package would work on the older cars. If so, then NAPA Online shows a cross reference from Chrysler 996350 to their number FPG BS3141 which is noted to be a FelPro. So when you go into your CarQuest, AutoZone, NAPA, whatever store don't ask for a rear main seal for your 1938 Plymouth, ask for the FelPro BS3141 or Best Gasket 4162.

[38plymouth]

Parts book shows a different oil seal package for 1936-41 (891454) than for 1942-48 (996350). However Best Gasket shows one part number for 1933-59 with rope seal (4162).

So I guess there is a chance that the newer rope seal package would work on the older cars. If so, then NAPA Online shows a cross reference from Chrysler 996350 to their number FPG BS3141 which is noted to be a FelPro. So when you go into your CarQuest, AutoZone, NAPA, whatever store don't ask for a rear main seal for your 1938 Plymouth, ask for the FelPro BS3141 or Best Gasket 4162.

This is great info, I don't even check my local napa any more because all of the good parts guys left. The new guys won't look up anything unless it's in the computer and my car isn't. I bought an oil pan gasket from them last year but I had to supply the part number in order to get it. I don't have the number anymore, by any chance does anyone know the napa number for the oil pan gasket too? I could have both parts tomorrow if I call them today.

[claybill]

i just bought one yesterday...and the rope.. i'll get the number for you this afternoon.

bill

[38plymouth]

I called napa and as usual no luck. I bought one from them last April but now he's not sure of the part number and it will take at least a week to get it. I took a chance and called autozone after looking on their website. They show the parts but it says they are special order. I spoke to the 20 year old counter girl and she looked up the parts like a pro and they will have them for me tomorrow, $9.99 for the pan gasket and $21.99 for the rear seal.

[claybill]

napa sells FELPRO gaskets..oil pan, #os-4250-c

the rope gaskets are $10 from roberts..

somepeople only change the lower rear as the upper rear is tough..solves 1/2 the problem easy.

the rope installation...to do the upper...first you get out the old rope seal, pull and dig and pull. then you fish a special tool made to do this ( ask around shops) into the slot, when it comes out you hook it on to the rope and pull it thru..THE TOOL HOOKS AND DOESNT MAKE IT BIGGER TO PULL THRU.

this is what i was told......you can talk to an old timer in any shop about doing it.....they will help too.

most parts books dont go back past 1950....but most fifties parts fit earlier motors. so i usually tell the parts man..look up plymouth, 218 motor, 1950-59 and see what you get...then they can see what is available.

bill ( speaking ONLY from experience)

[38plymouth]

I'm halfway throught the rear seal and I had to give up for the night before I torched the car. I have never struggled so much with any project before. The engineer who invented the rear seal components should have been fired. My car had no rope seal in the top or bottom so they definately needed to be replaced. I didn't realize how much needed to be unbolted to drop the crank a little bit. A little isn't really enough but I finally managed to fish the seal in with a wire but it got hung up about 95% of the way in. It's going to have to stay because there is no moving it now. It's as close as it's going to get without taking the crank out. Now I'm really struggling with the two half moon shaped pieces that bolt above and below the crank. I managed to get two bolts in the bottom and only one in the top. I need to turn the crank to get the other bolts in and I can barely get my fingers in there to try to turn them. Did I say I hated the engineer who invented this foolish setup? I will never do a rear seal again, I'd rather add oil once a week for the rest of my life.

[DLK]

I'm halfway throught the rear seal and I had to give up for the night before I torched the car. I have never struggled so much with any project before. The engineer who invented the rear seal components should have been fired. Did I say I hated the engineer who invented this foolish setup? I will never do a rear seal again, I'd rather add oil once a week for the rest of my life.

After reading what you have gone through if mine needs to be replaced I will pay through the nose and let a repair shop do it. There are enough other things my car needs that I can work on. I hope this solves most of your leak.

[TodFitch]

I'm halfway throught the rear seal and I had to give up for the night before I torched the car. I have never struggled so much with any project before. ...snip... I will never do a rear seal again, I'd rather add oil once a week for the rest of my life.

My seal is leaking also. And while I did this once before many years ago and don't recall having the issues you report I don't remember that job as being easy. I've been adding oil for a couple of years now while I wait for the "right time" to work on the seal.