T5

[DanOlson]

For those of you that have swapped in a T5, is it safe to assume that you can not use the Dodge throw out bearing and have to get one that fits the T5 along with the clutch disk?

Also, anyone know of a product to remove aluminum oxidation?

Yes, I bought myself a early Christmas present.

Dan Olson

[Don Coatney]

Not sure about a truck but on my car I used the stock throw out bearing.

I had to adjust the internal bore on the throw out bearing holder and the

external demension of the transmission input shaft support to match. Also

bought a new S-10 clutch disc splined to fit the T-5.

[Young Ed]

You need one of these

Kit including pilot bushing, bellhousing to trans spacer ring, and a spacer for the throwout bearing.

[KJ's Dodge]

There are a number of metal cleaners out there. Even a product that is used to brighten aluminum wheels should do the trick. I have used an Eagle One mag cleaner on aluminum manifords and valve covers under the hood and also on the mags with success.

KJ

[grey beard]

Dan,

Please keep us posted on your T5 progress. I am anxious to learn all I can abuut how this project acts, once in a Pilothouse. AND, please let us know what donor vehicle your T5 came from.

Thanks

[DanOlson]

Yes, I plan on documenting the process. I will probably post on-going progress to my web site and when complete, copy it to the archives. I'll post the link once I get it set up.

The tag on the case says 13-52-145 which tables say is 85-86 S10 but it came out of a 88 S-10. Perhaps replaced, who knows. Bolts do not show any wrench marks and factory sealant is still present.

Had a nice chat with Tom Langdon this morning when I ordered the the adapter bushing set. What a wealth of information.

Dan

[woodscavenger]

The T5 works great in a truck. Love mine.

you need the sleeve shown above for the TO bearing. The other bushing is the pilot bushing and the thinring goes aroung the T5 tranny shaft where it mounts into the bellhousing so there is no slop. I had to take my housing to a machine shop for the 4 new holes. Two would have been easy as they were in clean locations to drill and tap. the other two overlapped two old holes so I had them fill the old holes then drill and tap the two new overlapping holes.

[1937 Dodge]

Dan,

We were able to use the Dodge truck throwout bearing that came with my '37 Dodge 1/2 ton MC. Since I had the larger truck bell housing we were able to drill 4 new holes and use Langdon's kit shown above.

Had to do some major reworking of the center cross brace on the frame so that the T5 would fit and be able to be removed easily for any future repairs. We still tried to maintain the structual integrety of the brace. Space was tight by the speedometer housing and the gas tank.

I drove the '37 to Utica MI from Ohio (about 200 miles) to attend my home town's annual cruise in and kept it there for next week's Woodward Cruise. I drove mostly on Interstate highways and was cruising at 65 mph with spurts up to 70.

My brother Bruce and I were helping Tom Langdon install a Langdon modified T5 WC Mustang box with custom gearing and S10 tail housing so that I still retained the forward shifter and mechanical speedometer. I'm going back to MI this Sun to help Tom finish the modifications and get the MC a much needed wheel alignment for the Cruise and the return trip to Ohio.

It will be interesting to see how the 3.50 first gear of the new t-5 and the 3.54:1 third member compares to the old 3.76 first gear and 3.9 third member.

Edited August 7, 2009 by 1937 Dodge
grammer

[DanOlson]

I got the adapter kit from Tom Langdon but I think he sent the wrong pilot bushing. The end of my T5 input shaft is 0.590 diameter and the bushing he sent is about 0.665 ID and 0.930 OD. I don't have a clue what the OD should be but me thinks 0.075 slop is a little loose.

Tom is gone this week but I was wondering if someone could take a few measurements for me. Especially if someone else has Tom's kit but not installed it yet. The through out bushing and the bell housing spacer look reasonable.

Dan

[grey beard]

Shane,

How are you pleased with the T5? Have you had much chance to put miles on it yet? I realize you have a longer rear gear than stock, so you shouod really be able to cruise at very low crankshaft rpm.

Please tell us more about how the package drives when you can.

Thanks for your input. Looking forward to hearing more. Did you also need to rework frame members to get clearance for your tranny?

[1937 Dodge]

Dan,

I am cruising Woodward with Tom this week. I just saw your post and notified him of the error. Tom apologizes saying that he sent you a Ford T5 pilot bushing by mistake and he can exchange immediately. Please call him asap.

[DanOlson]

Thanks, I talked to Tom and I should have the correct bushing in a few days.

Now the decision: Should I wait for winter or pull the motor/trans now. Removing the tranny and bellhousing with the motor in the truck does not seem like a good choice since I have to work without a lift.

Dan

[grey beard]

Cannot this T5 mod be done without removing the bell housing? I understand someholes must be drilled, but I was thinking this could be done in place. Am I wrong here?

I still have never heard from anyone who has doen this mod to a Pilothouse with a stock rear. What is required by way of the prop shaft?

I'm assuming the T5 is longer than the stock unit, and of course one looses the stock parking brake with this swap. Dan, what are your plans in this regard? As you can tell, you have my undivided attention here.

I have a line on one from a salvage yard out of an S10. Don't know what year but it has the mechanical speedo drive and the shifter is not clear at the back of the tail housing.

[DanOlson]

When I get all the parts I'll take a closer look to see where the mounting holes will be to drill and tap. If the surface is flat and I have ample room I may try and do it in the truck, otherwise pull the motor. I need to pimp under the hood anyway.

I have a Ford 9" in the rear with new brakes and I intend to use the parking brake from that. I will probably need to figure out some linkage in order to use the stock brake pull or may use a floor mounted lever.

I'm planning on having a new driveshaft made so as not to destroy the stock one in case I need to go back.

Dan

[Jim Roach]

Just curious, the picture of the T5 transmission above showing the piece that covers the output shaft that is set off to the side. This is the piece that the large ring is pressed on to. I wanted to remove it to make it easier to press on the ring. How is removed? Is it pressed on? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Jim

[DanOlson]

If you are talking about the large ring that is the bellhousing spacer, I haven't put mine on yet but when was dry fitting it, it seemed that maybe light taps with a brass hammer may be enough to get it on.

Dan

[billwillard]

You will NEVER GO BACK

[woodscavenger]

Been gone for a few days.

Love the T5 but I also never drove the stock tranny so i have no comparison. As for mileage probably about 500 miles and doing great.

I did not need to touch any frame modifications. I did have to create a new floorboard section. I just made a template in sheet metal and cut a new shifter location. It is closer to the seat than the original. Otherwise the T5 fit perfectly under the cross brace on my truck. I did take the tranny mount out of the donor S10 and modified it to bolt to the original crossmember. It was very basic welding and easily done. some have ssaid the T5 is light enough you dont really need it but I did it anyway.

The larger ring just needs a little heat and it will slip right on then re-shrink to fit.

I knew i would lose the ebrake which is why i found a new rear end. I have more modern drums, a 3.5 ratio, and adapted the ebrake cables to fit the old handle.

As for drilling with the bellhousing still in I am not sure. since you are drilling and tapping I would think that would be a bear to do with it still in the truck unkess you have a lift. that is a lot of steel to drill and tap.

[Don Coatney]

Just curious, the picture of the T5 transmission above showing the piece that covers the output shaft that is set off to the side. This is the piece that the large ring is pressed on to. I wanted to remove it to make it easier to press on the ring. How is removed? Is it pressed on? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Jim

[DanOlson]

Woodscavenger,

Is your ebrake handle under the dash or on the floor?

Dan

[grey beard]

I've copied and saved every bit of information I have found on T5 swaps over the past three years. There's one piece of information that is crucial but which is missing from every chart I have ever seen - the location of the shifter. Some are way back at the tail shaft, and others are midway up the case. It is my understanding that for Pilothouse installations, the shifter that is NOT way back is desirable. Otherwise, it passes through the floor too close to the seat reinforcement.

Don and Shane, do you know what the donor vehicle was from which your

T5's came originally? Was the shifter location okay for your vehicles? I realize one of you has an auto and the other a truck. Will the same box work in both these applications?

For myself, this is the only information I lack before I am ready to buy parts. I looked at two transmissions so far, and each was completely different from the other. Don't know which shifter location I really need. Bummer . . .

[BeBop138]

I've copied and saved every bit of information I have found on T5 swaps over the past three years. There's one piece of information that is crucial but which is missing from every chart I have ever seen - the location of the shifter. Some are way back at the tail shaft, and others are midway up the case. It is my understanding that for Pilothouse installations, the shifter that is NOT way back is desirable. Otherwise, it passes through the floor too close to the seat reinforcement.

Don and Shane, do you know what the donor vehicle was from which your

T5's came originally? Was the shifter location okay for your vehicles? I realize one of you has an auto and the other a truck. Will the same box work in both these applications?

For myself, this is the only information I lack before I am ready to buy parts. I looked at two transmissions so far, and each was completely different from the other. Don't know which shifter location I really need. Bummer . . .

T-5`s from the S-10 are the forward shift locations--T-5`s from the Firebird & Camero have the rear shifter location. The S-10 trannys are cheaper and easier to find....Good Luck

[Don Coatney]

Rule of thumb, Non World Class T-5,s have the forward shifter and World Class have the rear shifter. The tailstock from a NWC can be installed on a WC. My transmission is from a late 80's S-10.

[David Strieb]

This post answers questions I had asked on the p15 side. I have a '38 series RC that could use friendlier gearing, so I will pay attention. Also would like to lower the front (stock) about 2", any ideas? I'm thinking custom made springs. Thanks!!

[grey beard]

Have any of you T-5 owner/operators maintained your stock MoPar rear axles? Waddja do without a parking brake? Seems to me one is almost forced into a rear swap (as Shane has done with his Jeep rear) just to have this feature.

I'm sure one could safely park in first most of the time, but it surely wouldn't pass any state safety inspection anywhere. Here in Pennsyltucky, we do not need state inspection on vehicles with Historic plates, so I'm exempt.

Curious to learn what y'all have done with this niggling problem . . .

Thanks